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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 01:46pm PT
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"It was March of 1965, Layton was working at Chouinard’s tin shed in Burbank near the Lockheed aircraft plant. My Stoney Point climbing buddies, Dennis Hennek , and Ken Boche were both working for Yvon then and when I had time after work I would go by the tin shed by to visit and pound a few rivets in 1¼-inch angles. Compared to the motley crew, I looked sort of out of place in my suit and tie,..."
Left to right: Me, Hennek, Yvon(squatting), Guy in hat?, Kor
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 18, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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Great shot!
Is that Clark Kent or Stephan Colbert, in the suit?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Nov 20, 2008 - 12:56pm PT
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That's a great photo.
Yes, Don, now that you mention it I do recall staying with you
or at least spending time there at your place. I was thinking back then of starting a climbing magazine. You know, Harvey Carter had once offered to make me editor at Climbing, and I couldn't see leaving Boulder and settling in Aspen, but it started brewing in me about doing some kind of mag. So I started gathering articles, and the years went by, but finally just to see if I could get anything together, I got a few people working on their things, and you sent me your "Letters From Herbert" piece, and Higgins and Royal sent things... but I never could get the magazine together, so then Kennedy invited me to be a sort of guest editor of Climbing that one issue, and I submitted all the pieces I had. Never got one penny for any of that stuff, but nor did I ever hear the end of it... for publishing your piece... with TM's language. I loved it and was glad I did, and I became pretty much an expert at defending you and TM... haha... and helping people understand that language in the hands of certain individuals is not offensive or gratuitous... Sometimes my gut still aches to think about Herbert...
Pat
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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One way to pimp (oops, I meant "bump") your stories is to stick in an interesting, if not pertinent photo.
Okay, on my way to do the first ascent of the north face of Pingora in the Wind Rivers, Ed Speth and I stopped off in Jackson to do the Grand. We were fortunate enough to bump into a very interesting and large climbing party on the Exum Ridge. We climbed behind them to the summit where this photo was taken, August 10th, 1963.
Question: Can you name (I can) any of these characters?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 20, 2008 - 02:46pm PT
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Hypothesis: Some of the group are Sherpas, perhaps who had been on the U.S. (Dyhrenfurth) expedition to Chomolungma (Everest) that spring. Which in turn suggests that some of the others are Americans who were on that trip.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 03:03pm PT
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The snoozer was altitude sick.
Okay, here's some names, Exum and Corbet, Everest Expedition ...
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 03:15pm PT
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More hints. Dude in Park Service pants was a well known Park climbing ranger/mountaineer.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 20, 2008 - 03:45pm PT
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"Kor was convinced we could use candles to warm our hands on the bivouac. That was his “plan.” "
Ha!
That's as foolish a notion as Yabo relying on raw potatos as wall food.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 20, 2008 - 03:57pm PT
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Tenzing Norgay?
Nawang Gombu?
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Gooney
Trad climber
Longmont, CO
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Nov 20, 2008 - 04:32pm PT
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Black helmet = Tenzing Norgay
Edit: Nah, he'd be older than that by the American expedition.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 04:50pm PT
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Ah, come on you guys, even I don't remember the names of the Sherpas (or anybody else except for Exum & Corbet). I'm looking for names for the others
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MH2
climber
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Nov 20, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
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I dunno, despite Everest: The West Ridge being about the first climbing book I ever had (a present).
Is white helmet Barry Corbet?
Joe Fitschen in orange parka??
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Nov 20, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
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Back to the matriarchal prostitution stuff...
Can anyone with a Green Roper or, better yet, with a good (but
perhaps strange) memory or, best, with first-hand knowledge,
tell me:
Who did the first ascents of the MW route and the RF route in
the Valley?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 20, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
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Scuffy, I have a green Roper near at hand, but am unfamiliar with the abbreviations you use.
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Nov 20, 2008 - 08:14pm PT
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There is a route listed as RF in the Roper guide...
RF, II, 5.8. Greg Schaffer and Rob Foster August 1966
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 20, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
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Hey Don,
I thought that you were kidding about hammering rivets into pins with your suit on. Looks like a fashion spread. Ha ha.
Very cool pictures.
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Nov 20, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
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Thanks, Strider. That one stands for Rat F*#k, I believe.
I think the MW is between Lower Yosemite Falls and Sunnyside
Bench, maybe even called Sunnyside Bench--MW route.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 20, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
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Sunnyside Bench - MW Route
Art Gran and Jack Hansen, September 1960.
"This is a filthy, decomposed climb a few feet to the right of the Waterfall Route."
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Nov 20, 2008 - 08:56pm PT
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Thanks, Anders. That's the one with the Matriarchal
Prositution allusion.
Roper makes it sound pretty nice, though, doesn't he?
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 10:22pm PT
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MH2,
No Fitschen ain't in the picture and Corbet is in the RED hat.
My memory has been jogged. Jack Hansen was the guy that got me into rock climbing (See "The Original Vulgarian" somewhere in the depths of this forum). Now I remember him telling me that he and Gran did a route in the Valley. And I can only guess that "MW" is definitely a referral to matriarchal prostitution.
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