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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2008 - 03:02am PT
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David,
Not knowing what to make of this beehive, it was reassuring to find your own contributions to the Squamish-in-the-70s thread.
I hope we do venture out again. Is this Zeke's business as good as rapping through a tangle of wet saplings to scarify the rock and bombs-away adjust the rope to the height of the outcrop?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2008 - 03:05am PT
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Through the forest primeval,
bearded in moss,
to risk my neck on wet rock just for a pose. 18 November 2008
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2008 - 03:13am PT
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Chiloe,
Sweden? "a superb area of granite cliffs and boulders set beside the sparkling sea"
sounds on topic
I like to see veins of lighter or darker rock running through the main mass.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 07:36am PT
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Sweden? "a superb area of granite cliffs and boulders set beside the sparkling sea"
The sunnier photo I posted above was from Kullen, in Sweden.
Not granite, but I had superb times there, and it sparkled some, on my two visits.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 07:44am PT
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The gloomier of the two photos I posted first page, Paradiset, was from Lofoten in Norway.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 08:37am PT
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Then of course there was the low-adventure shot, climbing the walls of Fort McClary
in Portsmouth Harbor. That's illegal, though it might not have been back when these
photos were taken.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 19, 2008 - 10:36am PT
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Is this Zeke's business as good as rapping through a tangle of wet saplings to scarify the rock and bombs-away adjust the rope to the height of the outcrop?
Oh it's much better. Much better. The saplings are bigger and wetter, there are more of them, and they're much harder to get to, the scarification is on a whole new level, the bombs are bigger, and they fall from much greater heights.
Here's a start for your education: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=660999&msg=660999#msg660999
And here's something to whet your appetite for a trip to Zeke's:
Mixed climbing, Pacific Northwest style
D
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
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GO
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 19, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
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Sea and Rock
This is a beautiful thread .....
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Nov 19, 2008 - 12:51pm PT
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A good thread that could only improve if it included on-topic post-traverse shots of The Trawler Pub. They used to open a keg a day of their most popular ale, and it was usually gone by 5.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 19, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
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Howe Sound from the top of the Squamish Chief
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 02:07pm PT
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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You've got some great shots from your adventure, GO.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
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Thanks, Chiloe!
Adventure is the right word. First time online for many of the pics. Want more?
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
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This looks like the place for them.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 03:50pm PT
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Oh hell, just one more...
The last photo, on the last climb, on the last day of that trip.
And really my last one on this thread, I promise.
GO
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Nov 19, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
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I love climbing on sea-cliffs. One of several joys is the contrast between the light-hearted holiday atmosphere of many of the locations and the adventure to be had close by. The approach to Moonraker is a fine example. One moment you're in a car park in south Devon with tourists licking ice-cream, a couple of minutes later you're blindly down-soloing vertical 5.4, 90' above the water. Assuming you've got the tide times correct and the swell is minimal, you traverse horizontally just above the waterline for a few hundred feet around the back of a large, black, dripping sea-cave. It's all very atmospheric.
Moonraker is in 'Hard Rock' a Brit. equivalent of 50 classic climbs, so it’s not a surprise to find another team on the route. The first pitch diagonals up to the crack-line, climbs this for a way, before heading back left again following an archetypal line of least resistance.
The rock is limestone, it looks a little weird but is pretty solid. The cave has a bunch of hard-ish climbs that weave through the overhangs and a classic 5.10+ that starts up Moonraker, traverses right on the flutings just above the lip, before heading on up. The gentleman in the photos has written a great tale about his ascent of this route here.
The climbing is 5.8 for a few moves, mostly easier, but is steep and feels committing: it's the easiest way out and if you can't get up the route it might be an eight hour wait for the tide to go back down, hoping the sea stays calm, or you could swim…
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