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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 17, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
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Gee - I was at the world's fair in Seattle in 1962. We stopped there en route to Vancouver. I barely remember it, but am told that I was quite upset that my father (an engineer) got to go up the Space Needle, but I didn't.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:35am PT
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Thanks for a ripping yarn!
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Nov 18, 2008 - 01:23am PT
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Seattle Worlds Fair, I was there too. My grandma took my mom up but not the kids. Funny how such injustice stays with you. ha ha
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 30, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
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Seems like a good time for a BUMP
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Jul 30, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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Awesome story. Thanks for bumping that Guido. I hadn't seen it. The taco has some great stuff hidden in its recesses. I hated those old canteens. The water tasted terrible. And we have such great water here in the park. Metallic water, or plastic hell. haha..
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Double D
climber
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Jul 30, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
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Sweet tale indeed. Thanks for the bump.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 30, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
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I missed this one too. What a great little tale of youthful adventure.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
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What a cool story.
I climbed it in August '74 with "Rubideau" Jim Wilson. We were both 17 and it was our first "big" Yosemite route. We wanted to bivvy and so hand hauled a pack and bivvied near the top of the 7th pitch. I led the headwall pitch (clean aid) and Jim got the Narrows. I was SO tired after leading the last pitch I could barely coil the rope on top. Man, were we stoked to be on top.
We did a bunch of classic free climbs afterward with Matt Cox, Sean Curtis and Larry Zulim including Outer Limits, La Cosita (right side), Midterm, Limbo Ledge, Little John, 1st p. New Dimensions and Grack Marginal. Larry did his first 5.8 (Little John) and first 5.9 (La Cosita)on the same day.
It was a great trip.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 30, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
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Larry did his first 5.8 (Little John) and first 5.9 (La Cosita)on the same day.
And he's still at it today. 50 weekends last year, rumor has it....
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Jul 30, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
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Thanks for the Bump, Guido; I hadn't seen this one before. Classic pic of Foott & Amborn, your pals from your teens.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 30, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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Sic story Bill.
Especially when i think of the "rack" and "harness" that was state of the art in 1960!
keep those stories alive and well here on ST and bust out the scanner and get to it..
Kurt
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C4/1971
Trad climber
Depends on the day...
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Jul 30, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
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Nice post. Roger, I talked with Dave Bircheff a while back. The boy has no interest in computers though...
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 21, 2011 - 09:10pm PT
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BBA & Footski Bump.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 22, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
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Wow, I missed this the first go-around. Nice bump!
I can strongly relate to this part:
The thought of going outside was too much to bear, so I went at it again and struggled up.
I just held onto a sopping wet fist jam / armbar in the back for dear life.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Apr 23, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
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BUMP
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 23, 2014 - 04:00pm PT
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We need to bump this periodically. At least I can say I was alive when you made the ascent, but I failed to get up the Half Dome cables in 1960 because I couldn't reach high enough -- and I was scared to death.
John
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BBA
climber
OF
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
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your f*#kina this gets a bump. thanx John
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Apr 23, 2014 - 07:56pm PT
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I did the SS with the late Sue Nott close to 15 years ago. I remember it like it just happened yesterday. Sue did a great job for not having much rock experience. That was one of the best ROctobers I spent in the Valley.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 23, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
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Totally hardcore BBA! Your tale is a priceless share . . . thank you so much.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Apr 23, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
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I love this old sh#t.
Always fun to put things in perspective. Foot and Amborn were my look-up-to and go-to, older bro partners during the early 60s.
Our heroes and mentors back then were old men. Chouinard was 23, Robbins was 25, and the old man on the block was Steck, at a whooping 33. El Cap had only one route, 2 years prior, with the 2nd ascent only weeks away. The SS was a Classic and a major route as it still is today.
Look ahead to the year 2068 and the time lapse between now and then and you will get another tangible perspective. Only, things seem to move in light years now on a developmental and psychological level compared to the early 60s.
Some early photos of Footski and BBA, aka Bitchin Bill Amborn:
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