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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 25, 2010 - 11:31am PT
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BooDawg's list is fascinating for a number of reasons.
One of the most surprising names on the list is Jim Logan, who is apparently ageless. After the Nose in 1968, he went on to become one of the most accomplished US climbers,with groundbreaking routes such as the FFA of the Diamond and FA of Robson's Emperor Face to his credit.
But here is the surprising part: he is still a very active climber (leads 5.12). Incredible.
Rick
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 25, 2010 - 11:34am PT
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Jim Logan is a quiet giant!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 25, 2010 - 07:39pm PT
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Jim's Logan hooks have gotten me through some wild places and saved a lot of holes since I don't frig placements. Ground down to form a set of five widths, these tools have provided me with the thrills of a lifetime and several hundred feet of fine granite bodysurfing!!! LOL
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 26, 2010 - 12:13am PT
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More about Whillans, but it relates to the El Cap thread.
One day in 1966 he asked Pratt and me, “Is Eric Beck considered sane?”
Pratt hesitated only a second and said, “Yes. In general, yes.”
Whillans said, “Well, I’m just trying to get a feel for your standards. He seems like a sensible lad, but this talk of soloing the Salathé has me worried.”
Eric soloed Half Dome the following summer. The Salathé would have to wait for Peter Haan in the following decade.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 26, 2010 - 02:06am PT
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What's amazing is that now that I'm older I have a sense of the history of those routes and ascents and while we always felt like upstarts, when I first got up on El Cap in 1972, it was still somewhat of a newish deal.
I wish I knew the history (list of early ascents) of all the Yosemite gems.
Those really were some charmed times, and so fantastically real compared to so many other parts of my life that have seemed like hallucinations.
JL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 26, 2010 - 10:57am PT
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THE LIST for Yosemite will have to include the first ten repeats on Grade V and VI's. Amazing what folks can remember around this campfire!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
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To quote Donald Desbrow Whilllians:
"The climb isn't the main thing, it's only half of it. The rest is being in the mountains and the company that I'm in. For the most part of my climbing life, not the early years of course, but most of it, there's always been a pint and seeing other climbers in the pub and a few stories-that's the real climbing scene that's kept me so long in it."
Lakeland Rock-Classic Climbs with Chris Bonington
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John Morton
climber
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Jul 27, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
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For another British perspective, here are the explanatory pages from Dave Nicol's "Rock Climbs In Yosemite", a looseleaf pile of topos for consumption by visiting Brits, dated 1974.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 19, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
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Sorcerer's Bump!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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bump
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
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Here's I appreciate the history: bump.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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does anyone have contact information for Rob Wood?
you can send me email if you don't want to reply
I'd like to get in touch with him for a little project
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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thanks Bruce,
I found his business contact (I believe), I was wondering if anyone knew him and was in recent contact with him...
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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Yo Ed I am in constant contact with him, will send you info later.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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thanks guido,
just established contact!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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I did a big post, and it vanished.I have no idea
what goes with this site sometimes... Short version:
The list of Nose ascents, posted upthread, has a few problems
with it. Roper sent me a list he and Pratt kept, and I will
have to dig a bit to find it.
Anyway, Roper and I were uncertain whether or not Tom Ruwitch and I
made the 9th or 10 ascent. For sure, when we did the Nose,
in the second week of June, '67, the fastest ascent to that date
was Kor, Roper, and Denny's at three and a half
days (not three and a quarter, as posted). In horrid June heat
we bettered that time by about a quarter day, but not because
it was our desire. We simply used that time frame to gauge how
long we might take and what water to bring. Up to then, there were
no nuts in use, and we did not use any nuts (although the nut
revolution began mainly with Royal's return from England with
Whillans, in '66. They visited me in Eldorado and tried to get me
to use nuts on Supremacy. I wasn't confident enough yet). Anyway,
Madsen and Schmitz definitely did their ascent after us, probably
in the fall or late summer..., fully armed with the time saving nuts.
They took off some time.
The list says Chouinard did the Nose in 3 days. I don't know
about that, but either he did it after us or it was more than
three days. Pratt told us of all the ascents and their times,
back then in '67. There are a few other problems with the
list posted, but I will wait til I find the list Roper sent me. The
initial part of the list as posted from above....
1- 1958 Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, & George Whitmore
2- 1960 Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt, & Tom Frost, seven days
3- 1963 Steve Roper, Layton Kor, & Glen Denny, three and a quarter days.
4- 1965 Gary Colliver, Richard McCracken, & John Evans
5- 1966 Dave Dornan, Dick Williams & Ants Leemets
6- 1966 Galen Rowell & Tom Fender
7- 1966 Jacques Dupont & Andre Gaunt, 6 days
8- 1967 Ken Boche & Don Lauria, 7 days
9- 1967 Jim Madsen & Kim Schmitz, 3 days
10- 1967 Dennis Hennek and Yvon Chouinard, 3 Days
11- 1967 Pat Ament & Tom Ruitch,
12- 1967 Don McPherson & Ron Burgner
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Dennis Hennek
climber
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Jul 12, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
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Yvon and I spent our first night on El Cap Tower with Texas Flake fixed. Our second night was at Camp 5, with a fixed pitch above. On our first day, while in the Stovelegs, we could see the ropes of Kim and Jim blowing in the wind as they cleared the summit overhangs. We planned since spring for a fast ascent with a minimum of bivouacs and gear. We took two gallons of water, used two 9mm ropes for climbing and hauling, and a 7mm rope to follow the pendulums. We took and used nuts, threaded on runners. They were new at the time and we hadn't had much experience using them. Kim and Jim stared on June 18th and topped out on the 20th. We started on the 20th an summited on the afternoon of June 22.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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Great info, Dennis. Thanks so much. That shows that Kim
and Jim did it after I did,
and then Yvon and Dennis. I just very clearly remembered hearing
of Kim and Jim's ascent. Back then we seemed to hear of a lot
of the climbs.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 12, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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Nice info on June 1967 to straighten out the order.
Pretty cool that you guys remember the dates from 45 years back, or recorded them and can find them!
So I have the updated list as:
FA: (multiple stages) Warren Harding, et al, July 1957 - November 1958
Stage12 (reached top): Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, Rich Calderwood (reached Camp 6, did not summit), Wally Reed (did not summit), November 1-12, 1958
2A: Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt, (7 days) 9/1960
3A: Layton Kor, Steve Roper, Glen Denny, (3.5 days) 5/1963
4A: Gary Colliver, Richard McCracken, John Evans, 1965
5A: Dave Dornan, Dick Williams, Ants Leemets, 1966
6A: Galen Rowell, Tom Fender, 1966
7A: Jacques Dupont, Andre Gaunt, (6 days) 1966
8A: Ken Boche, Don Lauria, (7 days, rainy) 3/1967
9A: Pat Ament, Tom Ruwitch, (3.25 days) 6/14/1967
10A: Jim Madsen, Kim Schmitz, (3 days) 6/20/1967
11A: Dennis Hennek, Yvon Chouinard, (3 days) 6/22/1967
12A: Don McPherson, Ron Burgner, 1967
13A: Jim Logan, Wayne Goss, 1968
14A: Jose Luis Fonrouge, Rick Sylvester, 1968
15A: Jim Bridwell, Bill Stanton, 1968
16A: Mick Burke, Rob Wood, 1968
17A: Jim Madsen, Mike Covington, 1968
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