Needles -- a photo TR

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Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Oct 23, 2008 - 07:20pm PT

Friend,
I recognize Love Potion #9 in your first shot, but what is the second on Voodoo. Millenium Falcon? Pea Soup?

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 23, 2008 - 08:13pm PT

Fat Dad,

"#22 Leading" is *not* on Love Potion #9. Friend's photo might be taken from Love Potion #9, though.

It's a bolted arete on the SE side of the Wizard, right of Nearer My God to Thee. We could count at least 7 bolts on it, viewing from Sorcerer's Apprentice.

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Oct 23, 2008 - 08:25pm PT

hey there ghost.. say, this is great... really BEAUTIFUL rocks... i have heard of these areas, but never yet seen pictures like these...

thanks for the trip share and the pics...
very nicely done...

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Oct 23, 2008 - 09:07pm PT

#22 followin' is Emperor Crack, Voodoo Dome. aka Pea Soup as an aid line.

Old&InTheWay

Trad climber

Oct 23, 2008 - 09:44pm PT

Climbing related bump

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Oct 23, 2008 - 10:02pm PT

Needle related bump!

Dudeman

Trad climber

Hansen, Idaho

Oct 23, 2008 - 10:16pm PT

Thin Ice
Lookout on The Magician
The Sorcerer

Grant Meisenholder

Trad climber

Oct 24, 2008 - 12:12am PT

It's been too long... Such a beautiful place. Hard to not take a beautiful picture.
Definitely not for the timid. The walk in alone is 5.9+ on the horizontal. 3 miles uphill each way! Don't underestimate what 7000 feet does to your VO2.

And there is a guidebook, albeit somewhat dated. Contains all of the classic lines though.

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2008 - 12:24am PT

Grate Pix Davey!!! So sorry to hear you was sick. Didja do the Robitussin + whisky chasers?

Nah. Nowhere near that sick. You don't know how close to death I was back on that night -- or how close to death you were riding with me. How the f*#k did I get the car from Golden to Canmore in that storm?

And on the subject of photo TRs, aren't you glad I didn't have a camera the night of the Robitussin + whiskey cure? Course, even if I'd had one, I'd probably have ruined it trying to take underwater pictures in the hot tub, or messed it all up in the snow storm trying to take pictures of the naked trampolining.

I am in total denial that yer 60. Are you sure that isnzt yer IQ

Just be glad I am that old. Otherwise I'd have the energy to go digging through the photo archives for pictures of you. Well, okay, now that I've got a working scanner again, maybe I'll dig out some pictures of you for ST, but they won't be that kind of picture.

xoxoxoxo

D

pk_davidson

Trad climber

Albuquerque, NM

Oct 27, 2008 - 01:29pm PT

First trip there, climbing Black Magic/Magic Dragon, I'm just finishing nth pitch, the one where you come off the west side onto the rib and can see the rest of the area in profile.

I hear a rumbling and look down valley to see some fighter jet screaming up at us just hundreds of feet off the tree tops.

As the jockey approaches the main domes "he" does an aileron roll up and over the top of the domes and disappears down the next side, maintaining just hundreds of feet off the deck.

What a way to first see the main domes up close!

Next day we're doing Igor when the rock starts rumbling and I look up to see a pair afterburners disappearing from view.

Margie told us the fighter jocks love to try and creep up on her and rattle the windows at the same time giving her a new perm. They'll sometimes make the hike in to laugh with her over their antics. Her game is to catch them on film too close to the tower.

My understanding is that this is a MOAC area where navy jockeys practice pure instrument flying.

Gave me a pretty good appreciation for just what my F-16 flying younger brother is really all about.

What a cool place to climb.

Churningindawake

Sport climber

Portland, Oregon

Oct 27, 2008 - 02:04pm PT

Awesome pictures, thanks for posting them. I especially like the summit block.

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2008 - 03:12pm PT

I hear a rumbling and look down valley to see some fighter jet screaming up at us just hundreds of feet off the tree tops.

Same thing happened to us while sitting in the Witch/Sorcerer notch. Huge noise and I look up to see a fighter jet screaming across my narrow field of view -- below me -- starting a roll as he disappeared from view.

D

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Oct 27, 2008 - 04:50pm PT

"And there is a guidebook, albeit somewhat dated. Contains all of the classic lines though. "

(sshhhh...)

OK, nevermind. I love the old Stonemashers guide which I think Eddie Joe is selling on his website. It shows you the major routes but still requires the climber to be able to size things up and have serious good judgement.

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Oct 27, 2008 - 05:05pm PT

We were on Summer Sojorn on Voodoo when a B1B in terrain following mode flew UNDERNEATH us headed up canyon.

About a half hour later he did it again southbound.

Never had any issues with the guidebook, but then I started out with Wilts and the Roper green book.

Last time we were up there the proprietess at the Ponderosa told us someone stole the Stonemashers guide that hung on the nail by the first booth for years.

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Oct 27, 2008 - 05:26pm PT

Not to change the topic of the thread entirely, but has anyone ever done any routes on Trilogy (aka McIntyre Rocks) nearby? You get a nice view of it down the road in Camp Nelson but I've never been.

Anyone?

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Oct 27, 2008 - 05:34pm PT

"Last time we were up there the proprietess at the Ponderosa told us someone stole the Stonemashers guide that hung on the nail by the first booth for years. "

For the record, that was not a stonemasher guide, but the more current Vernon, Paul, Moser book. It's theft was a great loss, as it contained many corrections, updates, new routes, etc which climbers had penned in over the years. It had become a bit dog eared though. I know it had my fingerprints all over it.

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Oct 27, 2008 - 05:50pm PT

Used to be a Stonemashers guide there also. We used to compare descriptions with Vernon's

I believe it may have been stolen several years before the Vernon guide disapeared.