Tahquitz climbing accident 10/19/08

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tamberly

Trad climber

san diego

Oct 23, 2008 - 12:48pm PT

speedy recovery to you both.... I was just chewing out my hubby last time we did Angels fright, that he didn't place any gear until way above the chock stone. And we've done this route many many times. This is a good reminder to everyone. Thanks for the help from everyone around.

Also, there is a crack inside on the right that takes great pro all the way from under and above that chock stone. So it is protectable.

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Oct 23, 2008 - 01:37pm PT

I've always slung the chockstone.

Bomber!

Slabspec

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Nov 2, 2008 - 11:09pm PT

Hello all,

I was one of the climbers who fell on Oct. 19, 08. I was leading the pitch when the mishap occurred.

First of all I want to thank Evan and all of the other good people who came to our assistance and apologize for interrupting or ruining your own day of climbing. What happened to us was preventable and just should not have happened. I'll try to explain what happened.

We were going to do "Angel's Fright". We had picked a moderate route because I had not climbed since May and had had shoulder surgery in June. When we got to the base of the route I suggested that because we were going to take a pack with water and shoes for the hike down that the chimney would not be so pleasant for the follower and that we do an alternate first pitch to the left of the chimney. I believe that the pitch is the first pitch of "The blank" and, in the photo, is to the left of the diagonal crack visible to the left of the chimney (out of the photo to the left). Here is where I made the biggest mistake.

Since we were or on a large ledge we did not anchor the belayer. My partner, Rick, is a relatively inexperienced climber but I have been climbing for over 22 years and should have known better. My years of climbing have had the unfortunate effect of inducing a certain amount of complacency. Many times I have done the same thing in similar circumstances, and, I believe, the practice is not uncommon with other climbers. We had just scrambled up some third class to the right of the ledge. Even though there was a significant drop-off at the back of the ledge - about 20 ft in this case - I had the illusion that, because of the size of the ledge, that we were "on the ground" and that as long as a good piece was placed before progressing too far everything would be alright. I placed a good stopper about 7 ft up and was having difficulty with the climbing. I fell twice and the nut held. The third time I fell my waist was about level with the nut and I fell to my left and saw the nut pop out of the crack. I had clipped a standard quick draw to the nut. This was my second mistake. Had I used a runner the rope tension probably would not have pulled the nut out of the crack. I hit the ledge then either bounced or rolled off, falling to the small area of level ground about 20 ft below, dragging Rick with me.

I wound up with 4 broken ribs and a collapsed lung. Rick had a large cut on his head and a couple of fractures - sinus and eye socket - which it looks like will not cause any long term problems, a cut on his knee, and injury to one of his hands. I spent 2 days in the hospital with a chest tube installed to allow my lung to reinflate and will probably be alright after the ribs heal. We were both wearing helmets and this probably prevented more serious injury.

Again I want to express my gratitude to everyone who came to our assistance and feel terrible that so many people sacrificed their valuable time, and risked their own safety, to help us. Also, thanks for all the kind words from the people who wrote in to this forum.

I would offer the following cautions to my brother and sister climbers:

- Always anchor the belayer. I have been pulled off my feet a few times arresting leader falls. You're not completely safe even on level ground

- Don't use quick draws with nuts. Runners are less likely to lift the nut out of the crack. It doesn't take much rope tension to lift a quick draw.

- I don't want to get too preachy but I think that a first placement in a situation where the anchor is less that desirable should be a camming device, and be backed up.

Thanks again.