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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 12, 2008 - 04:20pm PT
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come on peeps, the 'stuck at home crowd' wants to know
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Ouch!
climber
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Oct 12, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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JesseM
Social climber
Yosemite
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Oct 12, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
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Well folks, I'll ruin the suspense for you guys and gals out in the real world.
There were about 200 people out in the meadow to watch this lap on El Cap's Fast Track, and the boys didn't let us down! From high flying 360s and cartwheels to 80 foot run outs on 5.10 cracks, Hans and Yuji were on there game!
I'll let Tom Evans fill you in with the details on the EC Report, but I will give you the time....within a few seconds of the official one.
2:37.03!! New Record!!
Later,
Jesse McGahey
Yosemite Climbing Ranger
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 12, 2008 - 05:53pm PT
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OK pal - back to work! Ascents of Mescalito, to "look at the geology". Hanging in the meadow, doing the El Cap lieback. Where will it all end? Next thing you'll be saying that hard-working public servants deserve some time off or something. :-)
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Oct 12, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
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Thanks for the info Jesse, been waiting to hear all day. That is just so freaking awesome!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 12, 2008 - 06:30pm PT
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Congrats Team HansJi!
Bringing me pride and shame at the same time representing the non-young who rock hardest
peace
Karl
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Oct 12, 2008 - 07:15pm PT
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Ouch,
Is that a carp? I'm still trying to catch one of those. Looks kind of cold for carp. Where is that?
Mal
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
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This just in from Hans
Yuji and partner started off at the base of El Capitan this morning at 10:20 am and topped out on the Nose route at 12:57:03 pm. It was crisp morning and there was a late fall feel in the air.
Fun numbers:
Today time to Sickle ledge: 18 minutes, July 2nd when we did the route in 2:43:33 it took 16:20 to get to sickle.
Today time to Dolt Tower: 46 minutes, July 2nd: 56 minutes.
Today time to Eagle Ledge: 1:04, July 2nd: 1:06
Today to camp 4: 1:28, July 2nd: 1:26
Today to top: 2:37:05, July 2nd: 2:43:33
Today we passed four parties along the route.
Hans
It is the 50th anniversary! get on The Nose:
http://hansflorine.com/shop/NIAD.html
to have others or yourself sign up for this news letter, just send an email to: enews-subscribe@speedclimb.com
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
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Oct 12, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
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Congrats Yuji and Hans - way to send!
[Yeah, it's a carp, replacing about an eight-pound lake trout. I've caught carp close to 40 lbs out of Lake Ontario - that's a trout lake in Ontario's Algonquin Park]
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Oct 12, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
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CRAZY!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 13, 2008 - 12:47am PT
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i think they have locked themselves into Yosemite climbing history irrevocably.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 13, 2008 - 01:02am PT
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We saw the start (heard the airhorn, anyway.)
By the time they topped out, we had almost completed the approach to the Hourglass.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 13, 2008 - 02:00am PT
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hey there.. .thanks for the share, jess, and thanks for the share, chris....
and congrats to hans and yuji... say, so very glad you made it through safe and sound....
say, even the local four-legged critters dont take to doing that, oh my.... :o
yet, i understand well... when the rocks call, one follows... god bless to you and your familes...
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Oct 13, 2008 - 02:03am PT
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Congrats!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 13, 2008 - 10:51am PT
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As in Ansel's report, congrats to you guys.
Unbelievable, wish I'd been there to watch.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2008 - 10:23am PT
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Larry From MtnTools has a nice report below on the record:
EL CAP RECORD FLASH
Saw our friends Hans Florine & Yuji Hirayama on Sunday before, during and after their world record ascent of the Nose in 2:35:07! This was 9 mins and change faster than their previous record last year.
As usual Yugi led placing minimal gear (they carried only 14 cams) and Hans kept the pace and monitored split times while belaying, cleaning, following and jugging. Yuji told me "We gonna start slow, then go, go, go!" referring to Weds "practice" ascent which was a few minutes slower - possibly because the pace was too fast at the start. Go figure - their fastest ascent works out to 5 minutes and change - per pitch... over what is traditionally 31 pitches and 3-5 days! Hans & Yuji met up a couple of times on the route - to recharge the rack and gave quite a performance on the Boot Flake pendulum - Yuji going first and doing a slow mo "starfish" 360 (you got to see this) and Hans following with a 720 cart wheel... sort of. Clowns and speedsters... mostly speedsters.
They were "ahead" and "behind" the clock at several different points according to time keeper and gear shaver Chris Gonzalez In the home stretch and realizing their pace and position, Yuji gunned it and lead the last 3 pitches (up to 11b) with only clipping fixed gear and the bolt belays. With a 100 ft plus fall potential, Hans paced Yuji perfectly to the keep slack out of the system and keep things sane - sort of. When Yuji reached the alternate haul anchors at the rim, he stopped, clipped in and pulled hard on the rope - to give Hans extra encouragement and assistance before they both sprinted up the finals slabs to the finish line tree. The crowd went wild when the final time was relayed by walkie talkie down to the Meadows!
Their historic ascent was filmed by Discovery, Japanese TV - for a documentary aboutYugi and also Eric Perlman - who makes climbing films. There was quite a crowd, lots of long lenses, send off hugs, cheers, hoots and hollers from the Meadows... and a champagne celebration when they made it back down (which took longer than the climb!). Both arrived adorned with bay leave crowns - as is tradition in Yosemite when a big climb "goes down". They still had plenty of energy for friends, interviewers and just about anybody with a question. I asked Yuji - "What's the magic between you and Hans?" He said Hans had asked him if he might interested in going for the record but was not initially interested, preferring difficult climbs and competitions instead... Succumbing to repeated requests, Yugi finally agreed to sample the route in this style and found not only beautiful climbing but a whole new challenge. It was The Nose that was the magic - that brought them together, gave them a goal and cemented their relationship - one of unfathomable trust & confidence.
We are happy to be a part of it in our own small way - and mtntools was quite evident with labels on much of the gear and our triangle flag sticker on Han's helmet. Hans said his "support team" really made the difference as the project grew near. For the last couple of months there was always someone worrying about grams & ounces, gear modification, faster techniques and sourcing whatever needed to be sourced. Tom Frost's encouragement, inventiveness and occasional bivy site helped immensely. Sacrifices and support from family were evident too - wife Jacqueline and kids Marianna and Pierce were "in it to win it" too - just like Poppa and Yuji.
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