Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2008 - 04:33pm PT
|
on approach...
|
|
Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2008 - 05:33pm PT
|
On sight free solo?? That post made me afraid!
Way Bold!
|
|
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2008 - 06:26pm PT
|
Solo!? Yikes.
The crux corner is so insecure feeling.
|
|
murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2008 - 06:56pm PT
|
that looks so fun---thanks for the pictures, clint.
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
|
Bump for a climbing thread and the photos that all rule!
|
|
Double D
climber
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2008 - 11:08pm PT
|
One of my all time favorites, for sure. It has a lot of pump and a lot of craft as I remember... but then again memory is a bit hazy from the '70's, eh.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2008 - 03:15am PT
|
Here is the Moratorium corner system, from our approach in late June 2004 (timing it so the route would be in the shade).
Note also Kelly's route with Tom and Dave on the right wall - Burden of Dreams. I've tried toproping parts of it on the way down from Moratorium - it's pretty darn cool.
|
|
bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2008 - 06:55am PT
|
Scariest boulder problem I've ever done....
Is that little puzzle-piece "cheatstone" still in place before the crux?
Yikes....
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
|
Definite YIKES!
I removed that rocking flake below the crux in 1994.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2011 - 03:37am PT
|
bump
|
|
pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2011 - 10:34am PT
|
The way Bachar talks about soloing this climb in the bio "Man,Myth,Legend" is chilling.
He says after he reached the top he felt "completely hollow".
I think he 'went to the edge and peeked over' when he soloed the Moratorium.
|
|
Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
|
The Moratorium is one of my all time favorite Valley routes and a great way to start the East Butt, almost makes the link up a real El Cap route. There's a magical and intimidating quality to the route and I have fond memories of being up there in the shade with the wind blowing, the Merced way below and The Captain towering above. John was way out there on sight soloing that rig.
Thanks for the pictures Clint.
|
|
Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
|
Onsight free solo? (shudder)
|
|
J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
|
Was it Pete Livesly (sp?): "The grandaddy of all lie backs."
Thanks to Fosburg for dragging me up that thing many years ago. Stellar.
|
|
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
|
bvb... Yea, I know this is going back in time...
wound up doing some chossy pile no-star .12a thin crack a few hundred feet to the left
I wonder if you were doing a free ascent of an old A4 line I put up with Mark Blanchard called Creamatorium.
This picture of Clint's shows the corner we started in. We only did one pitch since we lacked enough blades to effectively climb the pitch. We alternated leading and also leap-froged blades. It was starting to look like a YOSAR call. We finished the pitch and placed a single 1/4" button head for the belay. Rapped off with plans to come back the next weekend with more gear, hook/bolt left to the corner then finish out right through that big roof. The picture makes it look layed back... it isn't (well, not THAT much anyway.)
Next weekend came and went. About four months later Blanchard jugged that sun-drenched line (hanging from the single 1/4") and rapped down. We never went back and that Chouinard Fantasia rope never looked so bright again.
|
|
zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
|
blimp
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
|
Pretty sure the thing we did was Demon's Delight? I clearly recall the first pro was a 1/4 inch bolt about 20' - 25' up. Weird and scary moves.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
|
Don't think so bvb, Demon's doesn't have any bolts (as far as I recollect, done it a couple times too...).
First belay is kinda hanging, and it sucked up all my #2s (Friends).
I don't know why, but it sucked reading Bachar's post here... But kinda funny at the same time. "Hardest boulder problem..." Ha!
And this is a great pic of Burden of Dreams:
Now that is one heck of a route ...
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
|
Huh. Whatever we did was on the far left side of Shultz's Ridge, was one pitch, and was 12a in the '86 Meyers guide. Don't have that guide at my elbow right now...
EDIT: I think it was up by Lycra Virgin?
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
|
bvb, there's a 5.12 finger crack called "Ain't That a Bitch" on the wall left of the Moratorium corner.
On this photo, it's above the leftmost foreground trees (just left of the big shady corner).
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!