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bpope
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Mar 20, 2014 - 01:33pm PT
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bump.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Mar 20, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
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Somebody would eventually have the vision to do it.
Not to rag on the FA or anything, but Clint gave me a case of red ass when I mentioned that some of the free El Cap routes were worked top down just like the route Growing Up on Half Dome.
I saw this in the original story:
We went as far as Sous Le Toit ledge, leaving fixed ropes that were ultimately anchored to a big block just over the rim. We then climbed back out to a stance just at the lip of the Great Roof and began work on the crack in the headwall.
Several days were spent on these headwall pitches as we toproped or led them, or sussed out the protection, and just got used to being in such an exposed place.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 20, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
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I saw the slide show presented in Casper--at the Hilton Hotel Grand Ballroom, of all places. Must have been around 1992? Beth Wald was also present. I was totally stunned at what these guys had accomplished. It was a climb way ahead of it's time, and all nay-sayer comments are simply a very bad case of extremely sour grapes. And for those of us fortunate to be living in Wyoming, these boyz were "the Home Team!"
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Mar 20, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
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Really nice! I have always wondered how the NPS does the power drilling confrontation? Do they mail a ticket now-a-days, or try to beat you to the top and catch a person. That would be a funny low speed chase to observe from a helicopter.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Mar 21, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
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So So cool. Thanks Ben for the bump.
Amazing about the mindset change from the route being impossible to finished.
Luke
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Dec 17, 2014 - 11:14am PT
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Nice article.
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