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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 23, 2005 - 08:54pm PT
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As a certified lightwieght I confess there are climbs and areas that I generally tape on or in.
usually not in the valley,
almost never at paradise forks,
often at Josh,
pretty much to get out of the car at vedauwoo.
Indian creek is a different story. Although I tape often there, there are climbs I don't tape on cause it makes'em harder; Quarter of a man, 9 lives, Cow crack, virtually any of the thin hands routes that used to be 12a before Bloom downgraded them. I do this even though my lame technique practically assures gobis, because at that size I'm less likely to pop if I don't tape.
Other sizes are more 'solid' with tape:The Crack house (I still haven't linked it all in one shot) is a definate tape only for me. I wouldn't climb Frosted Flakes at the Creek, Goldrush (? the one by the tunnel) in Yosemite, or Horn's Mother sans tape!
I rarely tape for offwidth outside of vedauwoo.
Once I get gobis, (like cause I tried not to tape and blew it) and still have days of climbing to do, I prefer a nu-skin, band-aid, then tape sequence.
Choose your challenges and prepare accordingly.
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James
Gym climber
City by the Bay
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Mar 23, 2005 - 11:23pm PT
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A number of valley locals have pounded the theory that tape on the hands are merely "adhesive etriers" and to a large extent I agree with them. I only tape if I MUST and then usually cover existing gobis that would stop my climbing if they became worse. The Creek is a perfect place for the taping example. Strap on some adhesive etriers and Big Baby becomes a hand crack. Tape makes things easier. By being able to change your hand size you are "cheating." I like forgoing the tape for a number of reasons
1. Gobis make you look, feel, and become tougher
2. Tapeless hands improve your crack climbing. Over time you don't jam as strenously with your hands thus saving energy and you become a more efficient rock climber.
3. Tape gives you away as a gumby. 'Nuff said.
These things in mind I believe that even hardman still tape. John Long taped workman gloves for his ascent of the notorious Pasiano Overhang. The Huberbaum and Caldwell almost always have their mitts covered. The conclusion is threefold in that
1. taping ones hands is merely a crutch that people can use to help them climb harder
2. tape is something they can blame their inadequacies on.
3. Tape is also a fashion statement. Do or do not as long as you are sending and admitting everything that you do.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:09am PT
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A lot of us were taping at one time. Then Bachar says screw this and develops the technique and finesse to eliminate the tape. We follow suite. The tape ain’t aid, just protects your hide.
You still have to have good technique and a lot of miles to keep the back of your hands looking good for those dishwashing commercials that you are going to do when you retire from climbing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:16am PT
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Guess I'll have to keep climbing, even madge won't hire me now.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:52am PT
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I noticed in some climbing video that Potter taped up for a crack climbing boulder problem.
What's the world coming to when everybody doesn't believe the same thing?
PEace
karl
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Mar 24, 2005 - 06:44am PT
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im sorry but imo saying that taping is cheating becasue your changing your hand size is wrong. my hands are a diffrent size to yours so some of the stuff that i OW you could hand jam or vica versa. its all very subjective. you gonig end up saying that you can jam E4 if the crack is 7.56cm, then the grade means nothing and the crack size rules. mabey we should change the grading system for cracks
its going to be as hard as it is going to be, but it dosn't need to be painful.
Rob
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 24, 2005 - 10:43am PT
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Since I work with deadly pathogens, gobis aren't a very attractive option for me.
I sometimes feel that way too.
No hard and fast rules here. Tape can sometimes be an aid, sometimes is a hindrance (depending on your hand/finger size and the size of the crack) and sometimes a necessity.
But, its use does have the general effect of covering up poor technique and not forcing you to learn better jamming skills. The only true means of being free of "needing" tape is to go cold turkey.
But, it is purely a personal preference...so long as you pick up after yourself (which a fair number of the users seem unable).
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John H
climber
Redwood City, CA
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Mar 24, 2005 - 11:06am PT
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James
3. Tape gives you away as a gumby. 'Nuff said.
How can you call anyone a "gumby". Aren't you the gumby who just took a gounder in Josh. How about being airlifted gives you away as a gumby. Nuff said.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 24, 2005 - 11:13am PT
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I still have not heard one (good) answer as to the difference between tape on the hands or shoes on the feet.
Ya'll got some arbitrary line drawn in the sand? Ain't it all cheating? Shoes make my feet bigger therefore on wider cracks I get better foot jams. Same goes for long pants.
Climb nekkid or, accept it ALL for what it's worth - a crutch, or stop whining.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:33pm PT
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I think LST pretty much nailed it in that last one.
As far as the leather skin theory goes, that only lasts while you are active, periods of inactivity reduce leather to rice paper ( especially, as Bridwell has been know to assert, when said leather is scar tissue.)
i am a Long duration, moderate climber who occasionally tapes, my hands (all the way up to my elbows, actually, thanks to The Owl) are a patchwork of scar tissue, I can sometimes bleed from just being near a rock.
Nature, I think no one is biting on the shoe/tape analogy because it's been talked to death over the years, as has this whole topic which is why we haven't heard from that animal nickname guy who has strong views on this , once posted with photos, here.
" Light, not solid"-Tom the travel agent
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James
Gym climber
City by the Bay
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Mar 25, 2005 - 12:16am PT
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John H
-that's funny
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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controversy bump
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:40am PT
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nice work Ed
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kc
Trad climber
the cats
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Dec 22, 2011 - 10:32am PT
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To each his own.
Just take it home!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 10:52am PT
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weighting is the key. the better you get at it, the less skin you tear off.
people who work with deadly pathogens should also study the immune system. the more you're exposed, the stronger you get. those who retreat to sterile environments easily become the most vulnerable.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:24am PT
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skating on stilts
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:39am PT
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I've got some pretty obvious scars on my hands from the lack of taping.
As I get older, the scars seem to stand out more.
I really don't give a damn.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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After the skin is open, I will tape. That started after my hand became infected from jamming away in the dirt with tears on the back of my hands. No need to be back on antibiotics.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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I forgot the tape for the Hot Line and had to come back the following day.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
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Every no-taper I have ever climbed with, regardless of skill level (most of them far better'n me), bled in one crack or another.
Every - single - one.
Exactly. The crack was most likely 11 or under as well.
If you want to climb hard on your trip and get a lot of days in, you'll be taping. This is incredibly obvious to everyone but the wankers.
How much tape you use and where you put it is very size dependent. I very often tape or retape for each individual pitch - usually tearing tape off for the tightest cracks, adding a little for off sizes. I've done many pitches where I change the tape job from a no-hands mid pitch.
Also, fyi, surf youtube for acents of the hardest desert cracks and see how much tape gets used by the "pro" climbers. Oh yeah - lots of taping to size and even taping for specific moves on the pitch. I've been guilty once or twice myself.
Your skin can probably go 2x as far on granite with no tape compared to sandstone.
Scar tissue opens up and bleeds a lot faster than fresh skin. Have fun with that if you plan on climbing a long time.
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