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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Oct 20, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
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I'm surprised that there is nothing here that looks like the slug ...only saw those in Europe and not in the US.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Oct 21, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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The yellow slider with the rollers is a Go-Pro Rock N Roller.
Nice post Deuce. I remember personally holding many of these items on one of my trips to Flagstaff. I still feel the pain of you locking them back up in your antique trunk and checking my pockets before I left.
I have three slugs made by Fixe but only available in Europe.
Rock on!
Marty
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 21, 2010 - 01:26am PT
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hahaha, Marty that is funny.
"Sir, we need to pat you down before you leave the shop"
This just recaught my eye of those beaks...
"The last one (never produced) had a swinging small wedge for clean placements."
Theron, what do you think? swage a little alummy thing on there? hrm
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Oct 27, 2010 - 08:19am PT
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Marty, the Slugs are not made by Fixe, in Spain, but by Faces Designs On Mountains, in England. (Patent GB 2 191 710 Derek John Ryden 23 December 1987).
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Stephane,
The slugs by Fixe that I am referring to are three different size cylinder shaped lead blobs attached to a short wire loop. They are used for aid climbing by shoving them into limestone holes. I believe they are called Fixe Plumbos? Deuce shows one in a photo on the first post photo caption "things to smash into the rock."
Rock on! Marty
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Great History! Thanks Dudes!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Anywhere I like
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love that javelina skull "Walt Memorial" Very raw. very real. thanks for the sharing of that. Sedona is a great spot, even after the LA Direct the Mace is still my favorite spire.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Lead, eh? Now that will cost you technique over time...
Very nice shots of a poor idea! What is in the bottle?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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To gf: Another solution to obtain a holding power on the sides of a crack is to introduce two “head to foot” pyramidal wedges in it. Developed by John Stannard and his friends in the Gunks, the system was renewed in the Chouinard catalogue (1977) which showed two inverted Stoppers. For a year and a half, Doug Phillips tried many a combination of opposed wedging chocks before creating his Slider. The first prototypes systematically dropped out, and then Doug Phillips realized that if in theory the system should work, in practise both wedges do not generate the same coefficient of friction on either side of the crack. He compensated this by pouring some solder, a softer material, on only one of the faces, that in contact with the rock. Doug Phillips took out a patent on the 17th of October 1983 and marketed the Sliders the same year by setting up Metolius Mountain Products. Composed of two inverted wedges made of brass, sliding one against the other, held by a dovetail, the Sliders performed well in parallel cracks of granite. Built in five different sizes, the set covered a range of 0,25 to 0,65 inches (0,63 to 1,65 cm).
Stephane / Nuts Museum
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I thought Charlie Porter invented the slider around '74? His didn't have the nice
dovetailed ways or spring loading so you had to make like an arthroscopist
when using the little ones. I didn't realize they are so rare so I guess I
should take some shots of mine?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Thanks Stephane! Plomos are them.
In the bottle is probably lead schalak, to prevent lead poisoning :)
The #2 Metolius slider is an awesome piece to use in bolt holes. In Phoenix AZ in the late 1980s there was a lot of bolt wars where new self drive bolt casings were being placed on the old historic routes adding new bolts. Of course the local hardmen removed the bolts leaving the runout. Thank goodness for these sliders. I watched my friend on Pinnacle Peak on the Wedge fall twice from the top to the ground since the third bolt was continually removed. 30' fall which stops the climber two feet from the ground. Once I discovered I could use these sliders in the bolt holes they became standard gear for my rack. Not for the cracks, but for the bolt holes that were missing the bolts.
Rock on! Marty
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 11, 2019 - 10:52am PT
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Bumped into this while looking for some other stuff.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!