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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
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Surely this ascent is ground up and conforms to your charter.
It wasn't done top down with top rope practice.
He led the climb from the ground up, clipping the bolts and managed an onsight.
Then led it again clipping bolts, to check out potential natural gear.
Then attempted to lead it without the bolts.
But failed near the top and clipped a bolt.
It is what is it, a fine effort.
The challenge still remains however.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jul 14, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
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Fricken INTENSE!!!!
Bravo!!!
He's a BAD ASH!
Walling Edit: V3... no prob! Runout? I need to use the restroom.. you know.. for some rest!
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jul 14, 2008 - 03:43pm PT
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coz,
Sorry amigo. I didn't mean to come off too strong (that's one of the things about email, etc.--hard to convey feeling, sarcasm, irony, etc.). I just wanted to reiterate that I thought the effort was proud, even with prior knowledge of the route.
Brian
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2008 - 04:15pm PT
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In reply to coz
> He did not do an on-sight, without bolts.
No one is saying he did.
> He rehearsed it, it's a head point, sorry.
Headpoints are where a boltless route is rehearsed on a top rope then led. Specifically a style to avoid placing bolts on areas where here is a no bolt ethic, e.g., gritsone and UK mountain rock. This is different, think up a new term (please don't actually) - most certainly it is a ground - up ascent.
> Why not say, pasty brit climbs B/Y after rehearsal, only clips one bolt on third pitch. Is that too honest?
That's exactly it. Except George has probably got a Californian tan by now.
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sawin
climber
So., CA.
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Jul 14, 2008 - 05:21pm PT
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steelmnkey,
I'm saving the movie now. He has never had a problem
with others in the past.
Mick_Ryan and bachar
I think they could also read environment variables via
a browser script or cgi, then check the variable, and
then activate the operating system specific player if
the other is not quite what you or they are looking
for.
BES
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 14, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
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Darn!
When I tried watching the video, it's no longer available!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 14, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
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An amazing climb! Sounds like this fellow might have fun on Growing Up.
It's somewhat arbitrary, but even if some or all of the bolts aren't clipped, they're always something of a 'safety net'. If you get really strung out, you may be able to clip one. Not likely, given sparseness, but just possible. And not that anyone expects the climber to arrange for someone else to render all the bolts temporarily unuseable, before the ascent.
It goes back to first ascent ethos - it's difficult if not impossible for any subsequent climbers to have the same experience. They know someone else has climbed it, and have the advantage of any gear that is in place, or other environmental alterations, e.g. removed knobs.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 14, 2008 - 05:37pm PT
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I'm impressed by anyone that walks up to the base of the BY and cranks it off. If that person then comes back and does a second ascent, and instead of clipping the few bolts on the route elects to sling heads, that too is impressive.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Jul 14, 2008 - 06:30pm PT
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There are many different ways for climbers with motivation and imagination to challenge themselves. Why limit yourself to one particular style, and claim that that one style is the only true way.
The article is pretty straightforward in saying how he did the route, so its pretty hard to find fault there. No doubt a ground up onsight boltless lead ups the ante even more, I'll be the first to applaud.
I think its a little lame to say that so-and so could have done that.....they didn't.
I think that kid showed a tremendous amount of imagination to see that possibility and then follow through.
A point worth mentioning is that Tuolumne knob climbing is a specialized...very specialized...style of climbing. Certainly nothing like it in the UK.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jul 14, 2008 - 06:53pm PT
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Mick,
I couldn't tell from the video. Did he use putty or tape to "secure" the hooks (as if that's secure!), or are those suckers just hanging there (can't be, can it)?
I'm just curious, not trying to start a debate about the ethics of putty...
Brian
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 14, 2008 - 07:26pm PT
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very nice video.. very nice send..
but..
i second Coz... not earth shattering when the current top end grade is 5.15..
does this mean we have to chop the bolts now? or do we wait for the on-sight solo, naked with no chalk and no parachute..
too bad Dean's already climbed it of he could claim it..
ks
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jul 14, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
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I've got to agree with coz, he was head-pointing the route.
I was amazed by the guy who wandered up the Redhead route at cloggy with little idea other than the route had been done. The repeat of b-y is just typical of most climbers today.
Here is an ideal, all those fast aid climbers and 'extreme' free climbers go out and establish YOUR OWN TEST PIECES- harder than anything done today. Hone your skills doing 2nd or 3rd ascents (or for aid clean ascents) but bust your balls on a new line.
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rectorsquid
climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 14, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
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Bummer that the photog tilted the camera to make it look steeper. Wither that or someting hit hard nearby making all the trees lean over.
Sill, it's an amazing and impressive climb and the style of not using bolts is to be commended in this era of placing bolts to make climbs "safer".
Dave
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 14, 2008 - 11:57pm PT
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regardless of where you put what he did in the great cosmic order of bitchin' manliness, what strikes me most about this kid is his unassuming nature and no-attitude good cheer. i bouldered with him one afternoon last spring here in flagstaff and he is the nicest guy you could ever want to meet. i'm not sure you could have said that about a lot of us, back in the day.
same dude, innit? he was psyched on gogarth and cornwall.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 15, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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Who knew the Brits would be closet Ken Nichols hooking fans - the last time I watched someone doing that it was Ken back in the mid-80's...
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Kevin Daniels
climber
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Jul 15, 2008 - 01:42am PT
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i spent a few days climbing with him at the buttermilks about 2 weeks ago.
i was interested in footprints and had rapped down it to have a look at the 50-60 foot slab at the top. george watched me from a distance.
the following day i went back to try the V9 dyno to get onto the slab and george turned up. he asked me about the slab crux at about 50 feet. i told him it was 5.10b and you could downclimb if nescessary. i told him to GO FOR IT, it was not bad and i had sold myself short on the onsight. lack of confidence DARN !!
he let me try the opening moves a few times offering support. i failed to make the long throw.
it took him a few tries but quite quickly he was on the slab and climbed with total commitment and confidence. it was a pleasure to watch him. he was fun to climb with and honestly one of the most positive and talented climbers i have seen in years.
he did the second ascent of the problem and i was happy to have supported him.
george left for the needles the next day and mentioned his intension of the B/Y boltless. honestly i am suprised he clipped any bolts at all. he is way skilled.
george is the real deal.
george give me a ring when you return
kevin daniels
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rjtrials
Sport climber
ChattaVegas
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Jul 15, 2008 - 01:51am PT
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Someone mentioned that Bachar onsighted the B-Y. And another that the bolts were drilled from skyhooks. Which is it?
Not trying to take away from the FA at all, just trying to understand a little bit of history and ethics...
RJ
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Scary Larry
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jul 15, 2008 - 09:25am PT
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Contrary to jghedge's opinion, the mere presence of the bolts provides a potential "escape hatch" that reduces the climber's commitment, so retro-bolting retains its negative aspect. This is not a reflection on the tremendous boldness of his approach to an already bold climb. But the experience (and possibly the outcome) would surely have been different had the exercise started by chopping the existing bolts.
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BenL
climber
18+hours to ElCap,13 to Tre Cime
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Jul 15, 2008 - 09:56am PT
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I'm with scary lary.
Retrobolters that make 'plaisir' climbs out of serious old routes, always argue that you could ignore the bolts. That's nonsense.
You are not going to visit an 'all you can eat' restaurant if you plan to diet...
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