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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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These guys need to be checked for anal probes... I think the aliens did some hot-rodding on them during the abductions.
I see no other rational explanation for such an amazing performance.
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monolith
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Hubers, can we have our women back?
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Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Wow. About the only thing I could do that fast on the Nose is walk to the base, get sketched out, and head to the pizza deck.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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hahaha - yeah. "Shimmied" doesn't quite seem to be the right term, does it...
After seeing the "To the Limit" film a few weeks ago, I would have loved to be one of the regular people, out there watching the action from below.
It would be interesting to read about the details that these guys and the Hubers used and how they differed from each other.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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WhooooHoooo! Congratulations guys. I just wish you would have waited until next week when I'll be there. Would love to spectate.
Mal
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TomLambert
Social climber
Yosemite, CA
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Hiked to the base to watch the start and stayed until the sweet end.
On the warmup pitch, Yuji whipped. A good 25-30 footer. That shook him up a bit. Some folks have said it was for effect or to get the jitters out. Actually, Yuji said there was a tick mark and he threw for it and things didn't go as planned. Ooops.
I love Yuji dearly, respect him enormously and really really wanted those guys to get the record, but there is something heartening about seeing Yuji whip on terrain that even I could climb. Makes my bumbliness seem maybe not quite so pathetic!
These are paraphrases, but....
Tom Frost went on and on about how exciting it was, how "this is what it's all about" and was interviewed extensively by NPR, SF Chron and NYT. He had some great quotes. Look for his quotes in the news.
One little girl stared into the camera and offered this warning to H+Y: "That record's ours. Watch out!" She's only about seven but Sean Jones says that if she keeps going like she has been, she just may have the stuff to back that up.
And the quote that probably says the most about the spirit whole event came from Yuji. He got into a conversation with the little kids while walking back to the picnic area and it was just Yuji and three sub eight year-olds. One of them said "I hope the Hubers don't come back and break your record."
And Yuji said with a huge smile. "I don't care. Actually, we're good friends with the Hubers. I climb with them sometimes. If they can come back and do it faster, that's okay. It's just a matter of seeing what your capacity is."
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82nome
Trad climber
NV
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Congrats...Glad you got it today.
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Gene
climber
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Legendary climber Tom Frost watches as speed climbers Hans Florine, of Lafayette, and Yuji Hirayama, of Japan, break a record on El Capitan. Chronicle photo by Michael Maloney
Posted under fair use. Thanks SF Chronicle & YCA.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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I could rope solo to sickle in that time.
Juan
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Way to go! My only question would be just how tired are you after a go like that and how bad are the leg cramps that night? Whew...
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Yuji and Hans:
As a member of the group that sat in the meadows and had our "minds blown" by watching Madsen and (I believe) Covington climb the Nose in 2 1/2 days, I don't know what to say. Words like good job and congratulations don't seem to say enough.
You have inspired us all, young and old, strong and weak to reach for our limits, to struggle to do our best.
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FetBro
climber
Bay Area
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I'm losing my voice from screaming for over 2 hours and 43 minutes. Seeing Hans and Yuji climb is jaw dropping. The final five minute push was one of the most inspiring moments I've ever experienced. So stoked they made it happen! Congratulations Hans and Yuji!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Good for them! I wonder what the eventual 4 minute mile asymptote equivalent for the nose will eventually be?
"Shimmied" hyark! No doubt a Shiboopi sheneannigan, er technique.
or maybe 'shuffle.'
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Yawn ... I guess it something to do.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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When new discovery becomes limited through over-exploration, the true athlete turns to the challenge within.
Amazing! I would loved to have been there with the Toms, watching.
Erik
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Hans, Yuji --
Rad.
Just RAD!
Freeks, Bothaya.
Thanks for once again expanding the limits, and pushing back the "impossible."
Where it's at.
Brutus & Em
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I'd also love to know their resting heart rate and blood pressure...
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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A 165 lb climber going up a 3030 foot wall (30 feet for the warm up whipper) equals approximately 500,000 foot/lbs, or about 677,868 Joules of Gravitational Potential Energy per climber.
Unfortunately, you do not get extra credit for going up and down, as this is a closed loop type of deal. A "Line" integral of the truest kind, get it?
Working on watts per hour.
Eddy Merckx put out about 200 watts per hour during the hour record in Mexico City, so we can use that as a bench mark.
OK, Watts x Seconds equals total energy, or Joules used.
2:43:33
= 2 x 3600 + 43 x 60 + 33
=7,200 + 2,580 + 43
= 9,823 seconds.
So if we want watts, we divide Joules by Seconds =
677,868/9,823 = 69 watts.
Or about one third of the best guy going flat out on a bike.
When you consider that a climber can in no way expend energy as fast as a cyclist, unless he was just climbing a top rope , that is pretty darn impressive.
Plus, Merckx only rode an hour, these guys did a marathon.
We can now put a condition in there, or find the limit, as x > y,
If Eddy quits smoking and grabs a line, and puts out 200 watts, then he can do the same climb in 1/3 the time, or about 54 minutes.
So that is the fastest any human being could ever get up that wall, if steps were carved in the granite.
A two hour record, I do not think it is possible to turn that into half of a stair climb, unless you put a big net under the wall.
A 70 watt light bulb gets hot, you can cook food with it, thats why these guys need the cool air, they do not have the wind like the cyclist.
Plus, cool air = white fibers, how many power lifters you see from the equator?
The good ones are from Siberia.
It pulls the grains together, like the Stradivarius violin, equal wood density.
O.........K.
Awesome achievement, lets give your audience a break, my nerves are gone, I do not want to hear about any speed climbs anytime soon, just relaxing in the flowers and trees, right?
Can you imagine trying to sleep the night before?
Pass the Nyquill and King Cobra.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Hans and Yuji - how about posting up those resting heart rates and blood pressures? Inquiring minds and all...
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