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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Duuuuuude. I had forgotten the details of this trip, the report was just enough to bring it back :)
Zander man, I'm hankerin' for adventure again.
Le_bruce, you're gonna serve me up a big heaping plate of it next week on Hawkman's Revenge! Yippeee! (only a year late). I am ready to fly like an angry ninja snortin' angel dust.
Revisiting North Butt of Middle is high on my list of day-long outings that I'd like for this summer (along with YPB, Arrowhead Arete, Geek Tower Center, The Peanut, and revisiting an old adventure near Via Aqua )
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PP
Trad climber
SF,CA
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Bob your 5.9 description sounds correct. I did it several years ago with a mini haul bag and took two days. It was fun and in the shade and definately not crowded. We didn't see anybody in two days. The 5.8 near the top is a bit awkward.
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Ken Zemach
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Dec 20, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
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I did this with my friend Angele in, crap, I think 2007? It's got some scrappy sections, but some great pitches too. You will be ALONE on it, and that makes it a classic in its own right. I'd actually list it as one of the "lost gems" out there (refer also to Inverted Staircase in Tuolumne for another lost gem. If you think you've done all the classics, twice, and are getting bored, then it should definitely be on your list for one to whip off. The, what is it, 10a (?) near the top is a bit spicy. NEEDS a bolt replaced. So, whoever knocks it off next spring, have your follower bring a bolt kit and get that cleaned up.
Overall, highly recommended.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Woo hoo for North Buttress! Nutjob and I are definitely going to have an ep... I mean climb this thing in 2010!
Ken, Melissa, J and I were talking about this climb yesterday. It's cool that this thread popped up. The "5.9" move, that tom woods talks about above, seems to always be what people who have climbed the route talk about, as they did yesterday. Hmmmm. . . .could be fun.
Zander
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 20, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
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Since this has been bumped, here's 2 more cents. Like everyone else, we had a grand adventure on this route. Bivied on the very top, on the little ledge that starts the Kat Walk. Great spot, we got to lie down and the party behind had to sit with their T-shirts pulled down over their legs. The Kat Walk had a lot of wet areas, so, a bit fried, we roped up, simul with pro every so often.
I definitely thought the technical and mental crux was the 10a corner up high. At the time (20 years ago??) the bolt was a crappy 1/4 inch spinner. ASCA site doesn't say whether some generous hearted bro or sis has replaced it. There's other pro but it's medium sketchy (maybe an RP, and or a wire; a blue or so Metolius). Leader should be spot on, you're semi-tired by that point and you definitely would not want to fall. But plenty of the 5.9 gets attention too. Way up high, I was wondering, do you go through that grovelly chimney hole? and partner immediately spoke up, "it's a Harding route, of course you tunnel through the hole!"
It's not as sustained as many other day-long routes in the Valley, not as stout physically as Sentinel or NEB of Higher, but a really good climb with killer scenery. Enjoy!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Dec 20, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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Thanks for the adventure. Nice PICS.
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 20, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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'did that in the late 70's one November and took full-on air on that lieback with the diminishing ramp to the step around lower on the route...popped near the end of it. Yikes! I remember that I felt sandbagged...had to go back and relead it; humbled by the experience...
 ec
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Dec 20, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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The layback down low is certainly the crux of the route, physical and hairball crux. Spooks me
every time. I done the route multiple times over the years, I like to guide it as it rarely has
other parties on it. Great climbing ! Great views ! Great history ! a little known Valley Classic.
Doug
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Dec 20, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
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Nice bump.
Very descriptive report- nice for an obscure route. I marked it in the book before, will put it on the list for this year. A climb for the longer days of Spring/Summer.
Sorry I missed the party- got a little bug.
Jay
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