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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 10, 2005 - 02:44pm PT
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bvb
You right that is really a photo of me hangin in my ledge on the thumb in mission gorge. Can you believe it only took us 4 bivies for that one. hehe!
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Nov 29, 2005 - 07:02pm PT
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Ok, I'm a little late on a reply for this one...John, you're right on the third ascent stuff. I guess I thought you guys were climbing as a team of four and I was wrong. At least you had the benefit of following the first ascent team as they went along. Tommy and I had some trouble finding the drilled holes on the hooking sections. Did you? I saw the broken blade too! I love Canyon Tajo! Has anyone done that route since? How's the north gully?
Steve
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Nov 30, 2005 - 12:04pm PT
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Canon Tajo is the SH#TE!!!! Been climbing there since '73!
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Nov 30, 2005 - 04:43pm PT
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Steve said: "At least you had the benefit of following the first ascent team as they went along."
It's true. We didn't have, or need, a topo: we just climbed toward the chatter coming from above. We were so close sometimes that we could talk. In fact we caught up to them and shared the anchor at the top of the 10th for the second bivvy. We had to hustle to keep up with them, but they smoked us on the last day. We finished a couple of hours behind them.
"Tommy and I had some trouble finding the drilled holes on the hooking sections. Did you?"
Oh man, I fell twice about 20-25 feet onto the second bolt on that long hooking section on the bottom half of the 6th. The second time I fell the hole was within easy reach, but I didn't see it. That hole ought to be filled with a rivet.
"Has anyone done that route since? How's the north gully?"
The north gully never gets easier, but it sure beats the south gully. I guess you guys learned that the hard way too!
No more repeats, as far as I know. You and Tommy are on a very short list of climbers who have done Pan Am, Giraffe, and Jet Plane.
JV
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