SF Washington Column - 2 chicks have a go... (pics)

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 21 - 36 of total 36 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Jun 12, 2008 - 06:13pm PT

tho the cigarette is optional

hahaha

cleo

Social climber

Berkeley, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2008 - 06:24pm PT

Ah yea, lowering out... I did just figure all that out in my head. Of course, that's not what we did :). Thank you!

What we did was (I think), the leader (Kate) passed a bite through the rings, tied the end to herself, and had me lower her. Then, when I arrived, the rope that I was jumaring on actually went through the rings (e.g. I couldn't have freed it by simply unclipping a biner). So I clipped in and pulled (w/ jumars) across the flatish ropes, like a Tyrolean, but up against the wall. This would've worked beautifully, had the bite not become a mess!

I'm not sure if that would've worked on the Kor Roof... we had reg. slings attached to 3 of the bolts, and I used that little loop of rope (difficult to reach... barely, and with much effort for me) as a grab loop to induce swinging, then on the upswing, tried to release the biner. At least one jumar was above the piece (I moved it), which helped. But this was quite tiring - I'm not that strong. Cursing helped too (f$*@)&@g biners with teeth!)

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Jun 12, 2008 - 06:38pm PT

Hey Cleo

Great try anyway! Love the smiles.
You'll get 'er next time!!!

Crimpergirl

Social climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Jun 12, 2008 - 08:56pm PT

Excellent! I look forward to the next adventure - take lots of photos.

Zander

Trad climber

Berkeley

Jun 12, 2008 - 09:51pm PT

Good job!
Thanks for posting.
Zander

Route Loser

Trad climber

Lake Almanor/Chico, CA

Jun 13, 2008 - 12:06am PT

Hey Cleo nice job! Thanks for the P6 beta. At least you made it over half way.
We should make a friendly wager: Who of us is going to make it to the top first? Winner gets a virtual high-five.
Just something for a little motivation ;)
My partner figured the "lower out" thing for P5 kind of on-the-fly, but I had read about it in the Big Walls book so I was able to walk him though it, giving us a little advantage. But way to go to your partner for problem solving and making something else work.
Hope to see a "top out" report from you in the near future.
Good luck with your aid climbing.
-Mike

Fluoride

Trad climber

Hollywood, CA

Jun 13, 2008 - 01:33am PT

Nice TR.

You had Dinner Ledge to yourself at this time of year?? That's shocking.

Then again I went up the Column 2 years ago 4th of July weekend and shockingly my partner and I had it to ourselves (weather was nice too). I went back again the following October (first weekend) and there were TEN people that ended up sleeping on the damn thing that night (and 2 on that ledge above). We were on Dinner Ledge before noon but a very slow party doing the Kor Roof pitch literally backclogged the place to where party after party came up and were stuck (a few bailed, but most stayed). By evening, it was clusterf&ck central. But everyone was cool and got along. VERY tight sleeping quarters though.

On the upside, the awesome Hollyclimber was one of the people there with all of us so once the slower party got to the intermediate belay, she blasted up the route past them and fixed to pitch 6, that little asskicker that she is!! I think it took her about 10 minutes to do that (figuratively, not literally). She and her partner were outta the ledge before dawn.

GDavis

Trad climber

SoCal

Jun 13, 2008 - 01:40am PT

it took me 3 loads up the zodiac talus and 2 trips to Zion before I sent my first real wall. I like to think of it as training?

John Moosie

climber

Beautiful California

Jun 13, 2008 - 01:40am PT

This TR

Holly climbers TR

L's stories

Crimpies TR

The Chicks are kicking butt on Supertopo lately. Thanks...

drgonzo

Trad climber

east bay, CA

Jun 13, 2008 - 03:01am PT

So where's the part about 2 chicks having a go? (with pics!)

(Nice going ladies!)

cleo

Social climber

Berkeley, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2008 - 02:45pm PT

Oh no, we weren't alone! The first night we had 6 total (everybody on the lower ledge), and the second night we had 6 again (2 bailed, and 2 Brits came up and slept on the higher ledge). Plenty o' room, though I'd hate to be up there with 10!

Apparently, after we leisurely descended after our 2nd night, so did the other 4, which surprised me since the Brits looked experienced, and the other 2 had fixed to the top of P6. It was apparently too windy and chilly (but then Mike & Paul and some others were coming up).

perswig

climber

Jun 14, 2008 - 05:57am PT

Experienced or not, the Brits probably just wanted to share the ledge with a pair of tough, dirty aid chicks. Who wouldn't? Great pics, TR and 'tude. Dale