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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 21, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
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We might all have our pet peeves, mine is Solar Slab, an un-scary, un-hard, but fairly long route that went up perfectly clean.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 21, 2008 - 03:09pm PT
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The Entity at Needles is very nice. It has a protection bolt on p1 (not shown on the MVP topo), and a second bolt on p2 if you go directly over the roof (I always go left). Here are a couple of photos:
Anne leading p1
following the exit left under the roof
Anne following the long curving fingercrack pitch
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midarockjock
climber
USA
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May 21, 2008 - 03:25pm PT
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The Flower of High Rank.
The left offwidth variation may at times have webbing in the
tree? The belay there I believe can be bypassed with the route
done in "1 pitch just as the right roof variation". The tree
can also be used for pro.
It was very hard to find classic trad routes without at least
a piton.
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midarockjock
climber
USA
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May 21, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
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Fist O Cuffs is a place pro route also. Over a couple
years however I did see the same cam stuck in there.:-)
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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May 21, 2008 - 03:39pm PT
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First route I ever climbed where I really noticed no gear was SE butt of cathedral. Went the left variation so didn't see the single fixed pin on the route, and the rap bolts were not there at the time. Dreamy to climb to a great summit like that and feel like you're the first to ever do it... definitely a preferred style!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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May 22, 2008 - 12:14am PT
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Yer right Clint. I do remember a bolt on the first pitch. The other one though? Oh well, the route is knott free of fixed gear afterall...
Midarock, Wet Dreams is a second pitch to the Flower. After you pass the tree, and go around right and up the handcrack and over the roof of Flower, instead of going straight up and topping out you go up and right, set up a belay, and do a pitch which mostly traverses right up a handcrack, through an evil slot and out a roof on tips.
Here's a good one: The Land Down Under, on Hermit Spire (across from the Needles to the north.) .10+, multipitch, fully trad.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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May 24, 2008 - 12:45am PT
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Wall of Early Morning Fright, Chimney Rock, Sequioa....Olive Oil,Red Rocks.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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May 24, 2008 - 01:26am PT
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Organ Rock Spire, nr. Monument Valley
5.10xx (double X)
Rappels: xxx (triple X)
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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May 24, 2008 - 02:48am PT
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Intriguing question, K-man.
I'm thinking some routes in the Palisades. Venusian Blind was all clean last I did it. I'll check again in 3 weeks. Swiss Arete had a single fixed pin on the crux pitch for a long time, but it's been gone for years now.
And Dark Star now has 1-3 bolts depending on whose topo you read, but there were none on the FA. (Chop-chop!) Not bad for 25+ pitches.
How about Igor Unchained?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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May 24, 2008 - 02:59am PT
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I always liked Equinox...(at Josh)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 24, 2008 - 07:33am PT
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From this list, it seems like we (collectively) can think of some gearless routes here and there. But between the old soft iron, stuck cams/nuts, and modern bolting/rebolting/retrobolting, such routes seem to be a diminishing resource.
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Scary Larry
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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May 24, 2008 - 09:43am PT
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I agree with Chiloe-- it is a shame what has happened to Solar Slab; it really changes the character of the adventure. Same thing applies to Epinephrine. Fortunately, Red Rock still has a lot of routes that have been spared the drill, but it seems like a lot of climbers these days don't appreciate that...
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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May 24, 2008 - 11:07am PT
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A very cool outing at Red Rocks is way to the left of Beulahs Book on the same wall. It is called "Open Country Joy" FA our buddy Randall Grandstaff (RIP) . 3 pitches, 5.10a, steep face small corners roofs etc. pretty good pro from pockets, small horizontal cracks etc. Good fun.
Peter
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Reno
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May 24, 2008 - 11:11am PT
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An elegant line soiled by holes proves nothing but lack of courage and weakness of character. Of course face climbs are neither "lines" and seldom as civilized way to ascend a height.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2008 - 11:30am PT
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Of course face climbs are neither "lines"
I think I disagree...face climbs can certainly follow natural features that make "lines." Take a look at the Dike route in the Meadows, or even the B/Y. Karma?
It's that we haven't found a way to climb faces without drilling that makes them seem "un-traditional."
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hobo
climber
PDX
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May 24, 2008 - 12:26pm PT
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Regular route on fairview. I don't remember any fixed pins from last time I was on it. Certainly no bolts.
Alex
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 24, 2008 - 12:26pm PT
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A few we came up w/ over breakfast. It's possible there's an incidental fixed pin here or there that we didn't remember or maybe didn't see. I haven't done all of these myself.
Absolutely Free to Hawkmans (Center Variation)
Mothers' Milk (A route all the way up the N Butt of Middle.)
Kor Beck used to be fixed gear free before a tree got cut down and a rap station installed.
SS Bench Reg. Route used to be fixed gear free too.
New Dimensions and Gripper, well, sometimes.
The Cleft
Don't recall any fixed pins on Bridalveil East.
S. Face N. Dome
Chockstone Chimeny
Phantom Pinnacle Left has bolts on the summit only.
Lots at the 5OB. After 6? Commissioner B?
Dihardral
Doggy Deviations/Diversions all the way up.
Geek Center?
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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May 24, 2008 - 12:35pm PT
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This spire has nothing on it but slings for the rap. 4 pitches (5.8), 450' the short way.
10 pitches (5.9) 1500' the long way--and 4 pitches (5.10), 700- the hard way.
Wilderness fun.
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csdude
Trad climber
colo springs CO
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May 24, 2008 - 12:38pm PT
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We have a few small cliffs out here also.
Comic Relief in the black canyon.
Plus a host of others.
RMNP-
Fat city, plus a bunch on Lumpy, and
a good portion of everything on the
diamond.
A zillion in the Splatt.
The Pericle on Pikes Peak...
Finest 600 ft. cliff west of Yosemite.
Arching jams- better than wheatthins !!
and a dozen other incredible classics all
within a few feet of each other. I don't
think there is a single bolt on the entire
cliff.
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