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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2008 - 03:49pm PT
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I vaguely recall that Oli (Pat) has mentioned that he has a few wood-nuts, I think from Rearick, which he used in the 1970s.
The equipment in the photos was given to me by the family of Leif Patterson. The bongs and hammer probably did some famous climbs in the 1960s. I don't when or where Leif acquired them, but he did some climbing in Yosemite in 1963, and may have been living/working in California then. It sounds like LongWare equipment may have had limited and sporadic distribution.
I liked the Terray story. He spent a year in Canada in the late 1940s, teaching skiing in Quebec. There are some funny stories about it in "Conquistadors of the Useless". Getting on the train in Halifax, being told it would get into Quebec City in late afternoon - and not understanding that meant late afternoon the next day. The quaint dialect of French spoken in Quebec - a combination of 18th century Brittany/Normandy dialect, with many Anglicisms. The French have interesting ideas about language, and Terray and friend thought the Quebec dialect ("joual") quite funny. Too bad Terray didn't get out west - he might have stayed here.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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May 17, 2008 - 04:42pm PT
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I use to boulder regularly with Lief at Indian Rock during that era. He was an exceptional mountaineer and wonderful individual. One of my fav photos of all time is the Rowell shot of Lief standing with his hands raised to the sky, thankful to the gods once again.
cheers
Guido
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 17, 2008 - 06:38pm PT
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hey there say.. thanks for the share... and many more blessing, i hope will come to ken's museum!!!!!!!!! way, to go.... :)
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
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Thanks, Guido! The Pattersons were family friends from about 1964 in Vancouver. Much closer to my parent's age than mine, but I was fortunate enough to have done some ski touring and mountaineering with him when I started climbing. An extraordinary man and climber.
I visited Leif's widow Marijke and her second husband in Golden (B.C.) last week, and they gave me the equipment. I said I'd try to find a good home for it, though I may keep one of the bongs as a paperweight. They also gave me his ice axe, which was quite an honour.
Peter Haan posted the story of the first free ascent of the left side of the Hourglass here a few years ago. It's at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=199688, and VERY well worth reading.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2008 - 01:08pm PT
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The photo to which Guido refers is this one:
An evocative photo, that first appeared in "In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods". It was taken by Galen Rowell on the 1975 K2 expedition. Leif was celebrating a return to green things after two months amongst the glaciers.
There is a small story to go with it. Galen saw what Leif did, but wasn't fast enough with the camera. So he asked if Leif would do it again, and he eventually agreed, which resulted in the picture. So it may not have been exactly spontaneous.
I understand that the picture has never been licensed for commercial use, although pirate copies have been seen. It has also been imitated.
Bump, so that Guido doesn't miss it. He's fairly new to ST.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 18, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
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ya dat's a good photo
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2008 - 04:23pm PT
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A bump for Guido aka Joe. As he was climbing in Yosemite in 1962, he perhaps should have a welcome thread of his own. There are few if any SuperTopians who were climbing before then. Oli, perhaps?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 20, 2008 - 04:50pm PT
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I'd be interested in acquiring one of those LongWare bongs. If there is no direct application for them to go to the Yosemite museum, I'd consider making a cash donation to the museum as a swap. Just an offer.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 20, 2008 - 05:18pm PT
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Udurkas, a small patch of grass on the way up the Baltoro. Good bouldering there and a great view of the Trangos...
I bet all those bongs together are lighter than a #6 Friend!
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scuffy b
climber
watching the flytrap
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May 20, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
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The LONGware bongs were about half as thick as Chouinard steel
bongs. Way light. Walking a 6" bong would be a challenge.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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The biggest LongWare aluminium bong is almost a square - 15 cm thick, and only 12.5 cm deep. It also doesn't taper much - at the other end, it's 13.5 cm wide.
I guess they were much better than nothing, but placing them well must have been a challenge.
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Les23
climber
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Nov 14, 2008 - 07:01pm PT
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I have some Longware bongs, Aluminum from 6", Steel from 4.5".
Also some crackjacks, both the original design made from a turnbuckle, and the later design made of aluminum.
??????????????
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 20, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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here is more stuff, but some of it will go into projects... some to the Museum
the two Lost Arrows and the Bugaboo are still useful for various "hush-hush" activities, even though they are vintage 1970s Chouinard Equipment originals... The bongs, the angle and the Leeper Zee are good to go into the museum... all are similar vintage... the steel 4" bong is LONGware
and my Stubai hammer from that same period too
and a pair of RR's too...
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