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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Blow - I was just kidding....
Gotta go for now - back to my printing press to make some more "money".
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Brandon,
Thanks for sharing. How feasible did it seem (if at all) to climb pitch 8 without pins? Just curious. Those photos are great. Made me go re-read Rowell's account of the big rescue. Thanks again.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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JB, take the fishhook please. Or at least go trolling barbless next time.
:)
Your post did lead to some reading on the Fed, we the people, one suckers under the few....
Send me up some fresh bills when you get the chance, this work sh#t is overrated.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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...which brings up a funny tidbit of info-from what I've heard, the reason we keep changing the small denominations (1, 5, etc) is that counterfitters have scrapped trying to mimic the fiber on bills and have gone to bleaching actual 1s and 5s to print tens and twenties. Apparently, those funky colors in the corners are harder to bleach.
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Brandon
Trad climber
Santa Maria, CA
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Yes, there are a lot more pics, too many to post.
Regarding the chimney pitch going clean, no way. I couldn't fit micro nuts or cam hooks in there. Hand placed beaks wouldn't work either since most of the pins are getting slammed upwards.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Brandon
Thanks for the pix. You certainly whetted our appetites.
Would love to see more!
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couchmaster
climber
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Coz says: Can they be reached on their cell to swing over and chop growing up, I'll pay ten bucks a bolt.
Holy crap, major misunderstanding! I guess that they thought you wanted the South Face chopped so they wacked all of Galens and Hardings bolts and are now looking to get $3,000 from you Coz. They yanked the original 180 protection bolts on the upper part of the route, all the new chicken bolts added - and got all of the belay and anchor bolts as well from the entire route.
The bolt count dropped but the hole count went up.
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couchmaster
climber
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ps, side note: @300 slightly used hangers are now available for sale, and the first boltless ascent of the true original South Face route is now waiting for the first person with Gecko skin shoes. The route, however, is said to be impossible without the bolts or the shoes.
No word if the choppers even saw the sparse GU bolts past all the bolts (read cash) they saw on the South Face.
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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The south face (harding-rowell) is a fantastic route with a solid approach, great views and a variety of climbing with nothing but the sound of Nevada Falls and the snow covered high country around you. (and a colorful history!)
The first 900 feet is in a steep and mostly clean corner with potential for a lot of free climbing and most of the aid is straightforward C1-2. Once you bust out of the great escape pitch (awesome!) the upper face has a lot of potential for free climbing, however you probably wouldn't choose to follow the original route which aimed for linking thin nailing features. Southern Belle already exists free right next door and is a visionary line up some steep but featured face climbing. You could free up some parts of the original bat hooking pitches but you would have to add a significant number of bolts to protect it...don't do it. If you get a hankering to drill bolts find another line on the mile wide face (or not). On the upper bat hook pitches you do mix free moves with bat hooking making for some very committing moments.
There seems to be an impression that the upper part of the route has hundreds of bolts...not. Every bolt you clip is a virtual island in the middle of long stretches of free moves, bat hooking and occasional rivets. I'd say there's an average of 2 or 3 protection bolts on each 120 foot hooking pitch and every 3/8" bolt we clipped that Roger replaced (only replacing the FIRST ascent bolts) we thanked him with a sigh. the holes do not need to be any deeper, just be sure you have long nosed custom hooks (thanks again Roger!) and ultra thin rivet hanger wires. My impression was that there were only a couple of non first ascent chicken bolts. The route has virtually no fixed gear yet all the belay/porta ledge anchors are gold. Brandon and I had a blast and felt far away form any form of controversy...Ahhhh.
cheers!
Dave Nettle
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
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Apr 13, 2009 - 03:37am PT
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bump
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