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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Apr 17, 2008 - 01:04am PT
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I knew Alan for a long time but never climbed with him much. One August day he and I spent climbing all the routes on the Peanut Gallery in Tuolumne. It was quite entertaining because he is pretty big and I am quite small and the routes he found hard, I found easier, and vice versa. I will always remember that day, we had an absolute blast swapping leads.
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Carolyn C
Trad climber
the long, long trailer
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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Rest in peace Alan
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Jim Wilcox
Boulder climber
Santa Barbara
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Apr 17, 2008 - 02:36pm PT
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He left this life too soon, and for that alone deserves to hang with us on page one a little longer.
In honor of those who go before us....
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Apr 17, 2008 - 04:47pm PT
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I only knew Alan during his Berkeley days.
It was always puzzling to me that he could
be so damn strong.
Enthusiastic. Supportive. Fun to boulder with.
Rest in Peace.
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Carolyn C
Trad climber
the long, long trailer
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Apr 17, 2008 - 05:01pm PT
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One day while bouldering at Mortar Rock in Berkeley he peeled off the traverse, which is overhanging. As this was in the days before crash pads, he headed for the the ground, his arm extended in a defensive move, and landed hard with a resounding "crack." He had broken his wrist. I know he was hurting, because he turned a whiter shade of pale. He went off to the hospital, and then showed up a few weeks later (maybe even a week later) with his cast on, intent on continuing to boulder the best he could.
Very intense, and yes, enthusiastic guy. I think he loved music, too.
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Richard M. Wright
climber
Lakewood, Colorado
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Apr 17, 2008 - 06:33pm PT
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Alan appears to have died of a gastrointestinal cancer earlier this year. As Alan's primary climbing partner over the last 18 or so years in Colorado, I will be putting together an obituary for the climbing mags. Any stories, help, insights, or connections as regards his family, climbing, etc, etc would be highly appreciated.
For example, at his wedding in 1996 I met his mother and sisters but do not have any current information that would let me contact them.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 17, 2008 - 10:44pm PT
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a sad loss indeed:
Alan was lean mean climbin' machine,
a creative and motivated human being...
hope he didn't suffer.
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crankenstein
Trad climber
Louisville, CO
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
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How can information like this take so long to hit the net? I didn't know Alan but I have traveled many of his routes. He will undoubtedly be missed even by those who never knew him.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:42pm PT
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Sad news. I didn't know this happened.
Alan was a fun dude to hang out with. I always had good laughs with him. He always had good energy and was always positive. Damn...
My heartfelt condolences to his family and friends.
RIP brother - see ya' soon enough on the other side, John
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Apr 18, 2008 - 12:08am PT
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BUMMER.
Only met Alan a few times, but they were memorable times.
Off Belay, Brother.
We'll be expecting your topo when we get there.
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10b4me
climber
hanging by a thread
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Apr 18, 2008 - 12:40am PT
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sorry to hear this. I didn't know him, but only heard good thing sbout him.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 18, 2008 - 01:08am PT
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Alan had the identifier word "KOOK" stamped on the
shafts of his rigid stemmed friends, remember?
man, this is sad.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 18, 2008 - 09:21am PT
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Yes Ray,
That was another one of his nicknames too.
We all had multiple...
I didn't know he embraced it so far as to stamp it on his cams.
I think his breakthrough period was right about the time he did those routes on the left side of Drug Dome with Louise Shepard; the stuff near Easy Wind. Arms Race was one of them and they rated it 5.12.
I'll post up his article on Tuolumne Meadows later today.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 18, 2008 - 09:29am PT
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was lucky enough to climb w/ Alan Nelson a little,
the day we went up to that corridor to do Brain Death at Josh,
funny, one look at the start and no one had to say it,
Alan went up to set the top rope, :)
He let me go first, I fired it and it was evident watching him
go next the true nature of his sporting spirit, Alan was a really
fine sportman - competetive for sure, but with that happy spirit
that said he loved it, and kept it in perspective.
He didn't fall, I remember that.
Alan had a lot of class but was never "above" anyone
and his motivation never took on a "hard" edge, it was
evident he was pleased with some on his accomplishments,
the type of climber you could feel good about
saying "that's awesome" (El Cap) because his spirit
and his love of the sport were the finest.
He took me along to do a couple wide cracks at Josh,
remember the day, we started early and were out late
and of course my ass was dragging when we got back.
Alan still buzzing at top speed.
Got up thinking about needing to write this,
because he was such a cool guy and a fine climber,
and because his spirit and sense of competition were the
best, he was core and very deserving of being remembered
in a special way.
Taking pause this day to reflect on Alan Nelson,
he showed us what was possible if you had the right
attitude. Alan just buzzed with Life.
thanks,
Ray
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 18, 2008 - 06:36pm PT
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i'm still trying to track down katie (his younger sister), or karen (his older sister), because i'm sort of blown away that nobody saw this coming. does anyone know how to get ahold of karl mueller? he'd probably know something.
i'm a little bit sadder about this news, as it is starting to sink in.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Apr 19, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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Awww hell, Alan was one of those guys I had high hopes of running into again sometime. My first real climbing trip was with Alan and BVB to Josh, on a Sierra Club Rockclimbing Section trip run by Alan's dad. The image of the young Alan, that white cap, thick glasses, the arch of his nostrils, is so sharp in my mind.
Kook was a nickname that came up in the early days in San Diego because he was, well, a wacky guy, with an early aid obsession practiced on the scruffy local crag, high energy, very bright, sharp and witty, quick with well crafted remark in that nasal voice, a real Gang of One. It was totally Alan to take a bittersweet appellation and make it his own.
As I recall the story, he and Karl Mueller were on their way to do a route on El Cap and wound up one of the first on the scene when those three guys cratered off the Nose rap route. They dropped their attempt to help out and do what they could, and shortly thereafter Karl pretty much stuck to bouldering, but Alan kept pushing further.
I feel stricken.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 19, 2008 - 11:13pm PT
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I feel stricken
no sh#t doug, this is like learning that your younger brother, who you sort of fell out of touch with, but always expected to hang with gain, died while you weren't looking.
what the f*#k.
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tetonhack
Social climber
jackson wy
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Apr 19, 2008 - 11:43pm PT
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BVB, so sorry, I remember you always talking about him. You and I stayed with him for a night or two in Berkley. All I remember was a very small apartment with lots of books. He pointed us to local coffee and we were on our way. Sorry for the loss of a friend.
th
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 20, 2008 - 12:28am PT
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It would be nice to see some pics of Alan;..I don't have any;..anyone have some to share?
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