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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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What is the shortest approach? Down the canyon and across the river? That has to be the crux. Lars Johanson and I have pondered it and that river is raging, not to mention the steep canyon. So I am estimating there are now 4 routes on Balloon Dome?
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2008 - 05:51pm PT
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Climbers Sean and Jake are in this photo (upper right). Check out the little splitter in the lower left quad.
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2008 - 06:04pm PT
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This shot was taken at the top of a steep gully that you can desend on foot to the river. I had to remove my pac a couple of times on the way down but not to bad. The gully puts you just down river from Balloon Dome. Car to river if you know the way is 1-1/2 hours or mabey 2. Sean has great beta on all this.
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
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Here is Squaw Dome which sits across canyon from Ballon Dome.
Also sitting across canyon. Disappearing Dome (EDIT)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Wow. Very very nice. Thanks for the droolers Bro!!
So,...I guess California pretty much sucks for climbing then...?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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To fill out DMT's list slightly:
516. Into the Pit FA: Sean Jones, Jake Jones, 10/2005 (photos above)
517. Balloon Dome - SE Face FA: Alex LaPralty, Mel Lambertson, 7/42
518. Balloon Dome - East Face FA: Dave Black, Mike Graber, 6/74
519. Boku-Muru FA: Dave Black, Jim Black, Mike Graber, 6/74
520. Balloon Dome - Beckey Route FA: Fred Beckey, Reed Cundiff, Bill Hackett, 6/71
521. Netherworld FA: Sean Jones, Jake Jones, 11/2005
522. Balloon Dome - West Face FA: Dave Black, Jim Black, Mike Graber, 6/74
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2008 - 06:41pm PT
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DMT wrote "Is that gully the continuation of Granite Creek or something different?"
I think Granite Creek is something different. This gully is more like a fracture or rock gash with trees,dirt and scree. It seems to be traveled by our furry friends a lot. On my hike down there to meet up with Sean and Jake I was following their (2) sets of footprints. After about a mile the prints turned into (4) sets. I soon could see that the new sets of prints were that of a large Cat. I followed all (3) sets of prints all the way to the river. Did I mention the river runs in a hallway that is a steep 12 to 1400 feet. Now just me and the cat in a hallway of rock.
Edit: That pic dose not show the gully. The pic was just taken from around where it starts.
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2008 - 07:10pm PT
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wildone wrote "Blair!
Ben Montoya here. It's really, really cool that you found this place. It's likened to a big campfire, and I concur, in some respects."
Hey Ben I have been meaning to say high. Guess I was just stuck in the vortex of it all. This is a crazy little thing this new fangled internet stuff.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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It sure is! Hope I get to see you soon.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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As I keep tellin' everyone, there's no rock left south of Yosemite; now go home.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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BLD, how was the river crossing and what time of year?
Squaw dome is sweet remote forest service camping. We missed the trail and bush wacked through the manzanita. After leading the first pitch I spotted a fine trail to the base. A fine guide I had who had been there before. Here he is...
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2008 - 11:33pm PT
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Mtnmun wrote "BLD, how was the river crossing and what time of year?
Squaw dome is sweet remote forest service camping. We missed the trail and bush wacked through the manzanita. After leading the first pitch I spotted a fine trail to the base. A fine guide I had who had been there before. Here he is..."
Your guide has a look like----your not going to pee on me are you?
The river was real low, we were there in October. You could navigate through the river bed pretty easy.
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2008 - 11:43pm PT
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Here is the river bed.
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Sean Jones
climber
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Hey Blair,
Nice site you kicked off here. Great to see the shots and refresh my memories of of that awesome place. Such a good adventure down there. Really refreshing to see this after all the squabbling on the other site.
Sean.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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The picture of formations across from Balloon Dome are Squaw and Disappearing Dome respectively. The descent to Balloon Dome's NW face is a thrutch. I've been eyeing that face for 20 years but have been too lazy to deal with the approach. Did walk down to the base once. Disappearing Dome has a couple of routes on it including Memphis Blues .11a. The old Spencer Southern Yosemite Guide has a topo for some of the stuff in the area. Most FA's go unreported, for good reason.
Kudo's to the FA team on Balloon Dome NW Face. Is there a photo TR in progress?
lars
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
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Lars, Thanks for the correction on the domes. I was thinking that was the other side of Squaw Dome.
Blair
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2008 - 05:32pm PT
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Lars what is TR?
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Hey Blair,
Nice to see you here. Welcome! And thanks for the photos. Can't get enough of those Hinterlands, as Royal used to call 'em.
cheers,
Doug
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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TR=trip report
They are semi-frequently posted on this site, and one that is particularly relevant, Mr. Milktoast's fine TR of Balloon Dome in a Day appears to have disappeared from the world wide web! Dingus?? What happened?
Looking down and across at Balloon from the humble Squaw Dome (which, coincidentally, is now Piau Dome on the new USFS maps):
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2008 - 05:56pm PT
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Hi Doug,
Its been fun following the dust trail behind the first coz post over there. Hope your well and hope to see you soon. I hope Sean can get a topo out for GU and mabey a TR for this Balloon Dome thing. Gotta run.
Blair
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