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pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
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That ficking sh#t is BAD ASS!!!!!!!!!! SO BAD!!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Chris,
How did you happen to get that interview?
Plans to publish it?
Cheers,
Doug
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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The quantity of amazing stories from The Nose FA is incredible. Thanks for bringing more of them to light. Too bad Warren is not around for a 50th anniversary celebration like last years celebration of RNWFHD.
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Superserdo
Trad climber
Madrid
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Apr 18, 2008 - 04:58am PT
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Hi Christian,
This is very interesting......congratulations for being so fortunate to do those interviews!!!
PD (you can see here our blog www.a5lunnis.com ; we translate many yosemite historic climb accounts to spanish.....see here at the midlle of this lists http://a5lunnis.blogspot.com/2006/03/ndice-de-artculos.html )
CHEERS from Madrid
Cesar Castro (Kiko)
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More Air
Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
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Apr 18, 2008 - 08:30am PT
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"The disorganization of this ascent was absolutely mind-boggling."
Classic
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MAD BOLTER
Trad climber
CARLSBAD,NM
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Apr 18, 2008 - 08:36am PT
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I have a report of the first rappell of the Nose Sept 1969
how do I attach the document into the forum?
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Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Apr 25, 2008 - 01:27am PT
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This has has been a super nice thread. Thanks to Wayne Merry and all the contributors.
I've a question regarding one of the pictures: The picture of Warren standing on the ground with another fellow and fixed rope hanging and coiled between them. Warren I recognize, but who is this other fellow?
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Apr 25, 2008 - 09:32am PT
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That's great Chris, you help keep this forum sensible.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 25, 2008 - 10:17am PT
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"We knew the wall was assailable. The question was - was it climbable."
"Love letters were tossed from Dolt Tower and Camp IV in a Hunt's tomato can…"
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 25, 2008 - 10:17am PT
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Thanks tons, Chris. Great! Let's not lose this stuff.
PH
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Apr 25, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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burldog.
We should all go find some big unknown cliff and have at it with that kind of surplus-age gear.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Apr 25, 2008 - 12:34pm PT
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Burly!
Someone should go back and try and climb the Nose with that same gear (and rations).
Now that would be an adventure . . .
JL
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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Apr 25, 2008 - 12:52pm PT
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Dolt Tower
Called Dolt Tower because Bill “Dolt” Feuerer was prusiking downward from Dolt Tower to
reroute some fixed ropes when he got his beard stuck in a prusik knot.
Earlier on, bill earned the nickname “Dolt” when he frantically clipped his
aider to a piece. He stood and breathed a sigh of relief - which instantly
became a scream as he realized the sling he had his foot in was the wrong
one, clipped only to his waist.
Way funny Chris! Awesome interview, and Ken, those photos...holy moly, those were some amazing dayz, huh?
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Apr 25, 2008 - 03:42pm PT
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that was really great
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 27, 2008 - 10:10pm PT
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After reading Chris' post, Wayne and I rekindled our friendship--he moved to British Columbia in the middle 70s and we lost touch--and hope to see each other in the 'real' world at the Nose50 anniversary in November.
Wayne asked if I had read the recently published account of the 1967 McKinley tragedy in which seven climbers died in a huge storm ("Forever on the Mountain," James M. Tabor, 2007). The main story line is that Wayne, as the McKinley climbing ranger, pushed to get the NPS to mount a rescue attempt and was rebuffed by his superiors. Don Sheldon, the famed Alaskan pilot, plays an active role in refusing to help, and Brad Washburn, for personal and vindictive reasons, helps the NPS turn all the attention away from itself and onto the expedition leader, Joe Wilcox. Modern day Greek tragedy.
This is how the author introduces Wayne:
"When I got in touch with Wayne in 2005 for this book, he was seventy-three years old and had recently destroyed a knee, ripping out the medial, anterior, and posterior collateral ligament and cracking a tibia in the process, while backcountry skiing, by himself, in the far northern wilds of British Columbia. The leg was sufficiently bollixed that he could not ski or even walk on it. The fall he took in such a remote, wild area, and in the dead of winter, could have killed a lot of people or at least necessitated an elaborate and expensive rescue. Wayne believes in self-reliance, so he carried no cell phone. Unable to call for help, he made himself a cast out of duct tape; then, using his ski poles as crutches, he stumped out miles to the road, got in his car, and drove himself home.
"'Every moose in ten square miles now know the F-work, but I didn't have to wait for rescue,' he told me. Nor did he have to wait for a doctor's appointment. Wayne lives about a hundred miles from the nearest hospital and real, $600 orthopedic knee braces, so he made his own from an old plastic Krazy Karpet snow sled and "a lot of duct tape.'"
I had meant to just dip into the book to see what was reported about Wayne but ended reading it.
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10b4me
climber
hanging by a thread
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May 28, 2008 - 12:20am PT
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Roger,
Wayne's self rescue is awesome. hard core.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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May 28, 2008 - 12:26am PT
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That was WH. One of my climbing partners in the early 80's was a partner (ET al in the guide books) on numerous WH romps.... She once said they did the big ridge on Morrison or something and she brought the food and WH brought the rack( mid seventies). He brought a rack of pins and she didn't bring another hammer to clean them. She said he only placed one on lead the entire 3 day climb......No other gear on lead only some stuff for belays.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 28, 2008 - 01:04am PT
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burly is the word for it...
I love this thread...
anymore cool DOLT related pix out there?
help a fiend out, will ya?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 28, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
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too good not to be on top...
hey you all, did you realize it's the 50th year since the Nose was climbed!
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