Bartack machines

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healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 30, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
http://cgi.ebay.com/Juki-LK-1850-Bartack-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-2070_W0QQitemZ270350165073QQcmdZViewItem
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
I did see that, but the ups shipping to AK is $495

So, going the industrial lockstich machine route instead of a bartacker, where do I learn the ins and outs of setting up a proper box stich to keep it all together?

Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Mar 30, 2009 - 05:54pm PT

If you are handy.... all you really need is the Head.... table is just a table and motor is pretty stock all over the world.

The head could be quasi disassembled and shipped in 19 USPS flat rate boxes. run you about $125..... ok... I made that up.....

but a head could be shipped via common carrier and maybe UPS for way less than the $400 or whatever. They are not really that big, but they are heavy. Maybe like 80lbs?
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Mar 30, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
Paul-

Be very wary of bartackers. They're a bit like VW's (but way more complex): either you become a expert mechanic keeping it running, or your repair man is pretty much retiring off your frequent calls. Maybe they're more like Jags in that respect.

Unless you are going into production where you need the pretty stitch, you might want to reconsider the walking foot. The Juki 241 is my favorite. Then do your own "bartacks". I've tested (with a hydraulic puller) walking foot stitching vs. bartacks, and there's no significant difference in strength using four stitches, each going back and forth around 3 to 5 times.

I'm sure Fish covered all this, but just another second opinion.

cheers
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Mar 30, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
Remember, speed kills.
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Mar 30, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
Bartack machine = Higher-end PC = $5k

If you make use of it, it's worth it.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
Thanks for all the input. Looks like I'll keep my eyes peeled for an old singer. I figure between misc aid gear projects, and gear slings for the kids, the sucker will pay for itself. Not to mention with an older machine I should be able to sell it for what I have in it.

Now to devise some destructive testing for piece of mind. Also, mentioned was 69 or 92 thread, I know the 92 thread is thicker hence stronger, any reason not to use 92 on everything?
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
Well I ordered up some 69 and 92 thread, remembering we have a singer 15 clone. I was all set up to get set up, but for the life of me I can't find the dab blammed sewing machine! It seems like it'd been in a corner here or there for years, always getting tripped over. So I go to get it, and it's no where to be seen.

Once I do find it, and make and break some test slings I'll have some spiffy slung aid hooks.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Apr 2, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
Paul;

69 or 92 thread: depending on who is the manufacturer, nylon thread at these sizes has a breaking strength of about 11lbs.+/-

The difference on which to use depends on what you are sewing. Basically, I try to use the thickest thread I can that will run smoothly through the machine, and lay down good stitches for the material thickness. In the bartacker, it is not uncommon to run 69 on the bottom and 92 on the top (or 69/69). This makes it a bit easier for the machine to tension the bottom stitches instead of leaving a mess on the bottom. This is especially true on narrow webbing, like stuff under 1". On 1" webbing, there is enough room in the pattern to even run #138 (depending on the webbing weave density) For something like a haul bag on a regular machine (regular being industrial walking foot), you could run #138 on top and #92 on the bottom. Does it really make a difference? Probably not. Just be sure to get BONDED nylon or polyester. Different brands have different bonding and some are much better than others. I've had good luck with Coats American thread. It seems to have the best bonding and the ends rarely if ever fray out when the cutters hit them.


tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
Thanks Russ!

I'm looking at mainly sewing 9/16" supertape, so looks like I should stick with my favorite number, 69.

Guess I need to go speloonkin in the storage shed in the back yard as I think thats were the singer resides, but I'll be durned if I can find anything in that mess.
Double D

climber
Apr 2, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
"They're a bit like VW's (but way more complex): either you become a expert mechanic keeping it running, or your repair man is pretty much retiring off your frequent calls."

Truer words have never hit paper! (-;

It's real important if you are going to run production bar-tackers for webbing to sloooow down the the action with a modified cam otherwise you'll be spending lots more on needles and repairs.

I would just get a used walking foot or even a needle feed and you'll be fine for your own tinkering.
FireIntheCity

Mountain climber
from t'Hate-haunted canyon of human despair
Oct 3, 2010 - 09:20am PT

So, Paul..... Did you ever get the machine?









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