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Ammon
Big Wall climber
The Mountains
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2005 - 05:28pm PT
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"You can call Klaus a lot of things... but LIGHT aint one of em"!!
He did an excellent job on the "hole count". One of the finest masterpieces I've seen.
I really like the natural belay at the top of the third pitch. Two cams on either side of a very loose flake. I was glad to get off THAT one.
[Edit]
This is my favorite pic in the dirtbag thread....
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
The Mountains
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2005 - 06:15pm PT
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Sorry Irisharehere, I didn't mean to ignore you.
The roof is on Atlantic Ocean Wall. I posted a few pics of the ascent here:
http://www.rocknclimb.com/aowall.html[/b]
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Jan 31, 2005 - 06:31pm PT
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The idea of repeating an Eric Kohl solo FA is so ball-shriveling I can't really comprehend it. NJ man...good send.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Jan 31, 2005 - 06:56pm PT
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Klaus, how many days on the FA and what's the hole count?
Thanks
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jan 31, 2005 - 06:56pm PT
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that roof looks like a total gut-buster...
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
The Mountains
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2005 - 08:21pm PT
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Hey Klaus,
Apparently our friend Bigwalling says he read somewhere that Pressure Cooker has seen a second ascent:
"A month previously (September) the Philadelphia-based climbers, Oskar Nadasdi and Enci Szentirmai, made the second ascent of Eric Kohl’s Pressure Cooker (VI 5.10 A4). In 1997 the same pair had made the second ascent of High Plains Dripper (VI 5.11 A5) but now report that the A4 aid climbing on Pressure Cooker is harder than anything on High Plains Dipper and that its free climbing is definitely harder than 5.10 and quite scary."
That's right, we didn't even bring a drill on the route. I was taking the Shipley approach: If you can't do it with out drilling, RAP!!
Still is a testpiece. That second pitch will shut most who try it, DOWN..... and that's not even the crux.
Cheers-
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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wow dude, you're definately throwin' down the photos, they all rawk! thanks!
how about Sunkist?
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
The Mountains
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2005 - 01:52am PT
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Hhhmmm, it was hot as hell that day and I don't think I got many. I'll dig one or two up......
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
The Mountains
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2005 - 02:22am PT
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Haa, I only took three all day.... well, one in the morning. I saw Chris "The Alpine" and his lovely girl the morning of this sunrise.
This is a good one of Brian cleaning on the headwall.
Here's a... not so good shot of Brian in a horrible looking offwidth on the 10th pitch. Not sure what that fixed rope was all about.
Great route!!!!
Cheers-
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skyfox
Trad climber
Bay Area, CA
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Ammon,
Your site and your pics are awesome!! Keep clicking that camera!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2005 - 03:59am PT
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Aarrggh, MATE!!
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Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
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Awsome post, keep'em coming.
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Those are some hot pics for sure!!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2005 - 03:07am PT
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Aiegh, Toulomne*Rainbow
..... ALL good rogues carry a sword!!!
Check out more Big Wall Fun at:
http://www.rocknclimb.com/wallfun.html[/b]
Cheers!!!
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
running springs, ca
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ahhh, sites slike this keep me motivated. Hope to add some red rocks linkups and times (all mortal but fun nonetheless). But the sierra car to cars should get good this summer, Jed you ready!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ammon good to have you livin round here, where were ya wednesday night????Have you done the Hairline Mt Whitney in a day yet????
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2005 - 12:28am PT
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Hey Toulomne*Rainbow,
Nope, didn't type it Ctrl-C, Ctrl-V... Copy - Paste. Then put in caps for visual reasons. ;)
Clustiere,
Yeah, I was planning on going to Pat's house all week and then had to change plans at the last minute. I've been climbing at the Pinnacles in the afternoons, when Austin gets out of school.
Haven't done Hairline. I've soloed the East Buttress a few times. My fastest time was under an hour from where most parties rope up, to the summit. Oh, and took a ten minute break above Pee Wee so I could fix my head.
Cheers-
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
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Ammon, that sunrise was unbelievable!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2005 - 02:23am PT
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This is a first ascent in Zion that Brian and I climbed. We named it Medieval Wall and was a very improbable line... I didn't think it would go with so few lead bolts (7 lead/protection, bolts/holes total - 9 pitches).
Check out more photos at:
http://rocknclimb.com/midevilwall.html[/b]
Cheers!!!
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
running springs, ca
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Feb 18, 2005 - 12:07pm PT
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Looks like when I get motivated I start asking leading questions. Kinda says "damn its wet here I need to get out and climb" Mojave looks to have some amaving rock some of which is illegal to climb on.. But a 4-800 ft quarts monzonite er granite dome awaits a crumbly ascent, and some limestone also awaits ???????? like 2 pitch limestone dome thing never seeen anything like it before, also there is a bunch of granite out there.!
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