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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 10, 2008 - 09:31pm PT
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My condolences to you and your family and the larger "family" touched by the Wilts' famous generousity.
Ed
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Mar 10, 2008 - 09:37pm PT
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I am very sorry for your loss.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 10, 2008 - 11:40pm PT
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I'm very sorry
Ray
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Mar 11, 2008 - 12:15am PT
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She will be with you forever.... Thank you for sharing your loss.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Mar 11, 2008 - 01:05am PT
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Hi Janet,
Long time since we climb together at the City. I do not get up there as much especially since Maura left. I am very sorry to hear of your Mom's passing. It was great fun hearing your stories about them whilst climbing.
Warm regards,
Allen
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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Mar 11, 2008 - 01:12am PT
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Very sorry Janet. It is nice to see those that knew her have so many good memories.
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10b4me
climber
hanging by a thread
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Mar 11, 2008 - 01:27am PT
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please accept my condolences Janet. your parents had a major impact on climbing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 11, 2008 - 01:38am PT
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Sorry to hear, condolences, Janet. Know that hers were some of the shoulders the rest of us stand on.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Mar 11, 2008 - 03:55am PT
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Wow Janet - what a great loss to you,Gail,Chuck jr and the climbing community.
The West Side Route , North Whizz Dome 5.6. F.A. Ellen Wilts and Janet Wilts September 1961
A fitting memorial........
Say hi to Gail for me*
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Mar 11, 2008 - 05:10am PT
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Janet,
Thanks for posting here to give us the news. I never knew your folks, but I know many people here who do. I'm so sorry for your loss.
I read about your folks when I was a kid, when everbody who knew what they were doing in the mountains was a hero to me.
God Bless,
Bruce
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mar 11, 2008 - 09:28am PT
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My condolences Janet to you, your family and your friends. Your parents' names in guidebooks is one of the more enduring aspects of climbing.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Varied locales along the time and space continuum
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Mar 11, 2008 - 10:42am PT
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I'm sorry to hear about your Mom, Janet. I never met her, but her spirit is strongly imbued in the climbs she pioneered and in the mountains. What a wonderful and unique route Matthes Crest is! I was just there last summer. It's an honor to wallk in her footsteps. Peace and prayers to you and your family. And thank you for sharing your thoughts.
Eric
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Double D
climber
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Mar 15, 2008 - 12:20am PT
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Condolences, Janet. Your mom sounded like an amazing lady.
Dave D.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Mar 16, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
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Really sorry to hear this Janet, peace be to you.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 16, 2008 - 11:46pm PT
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Here's one of the photos I mentioned upthread, 'borrowed' from the Sierra Club's website.
Ellen Wilts, taken in 1949.
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tetonhack
Social climber
jackson wy
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Mar 17, 2008 - 09:13am PT
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Hi Janet, I haven't seen you in a long time, hope you're still gett'n out there. Sorry to hear that news.
Best wishes
Brents
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Anguish
Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
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Mar 17, 2008 - 07:39pm PT
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Janet,
My condolences.
Thanks for sharing your family's history with those of us who never knew.
AT
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
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Janet - Sorry about your mom! You and Gail come from such a rich climbing heritage and have added your own contributions. I'll stop by while I'm up there in May.
Condolences,
Tom Kimbrough
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Mar 18, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
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Sad to hear she is gone. Here's a few bits I found on the internet:
* Will's Climbing Log:
Ascent of Left Ski Track
* Date: Sunday, July 17th, 2005
* Location: Tahquitz
* Area: South Face
* Route: Left Ski Track
* Rating: 5.6 ***
* Type of climb: Trad
* Pitches: 3, I led 3.
* Partner(s): Laura Schrupp
Comments:
This route lived up to its reputation as a spectacular climb. I had done the first pitch before with Aaron, but I hadn't led it. So I got to enjoy the “unbelievably good jugs” on lead this time. The second pitch, with its famous step-around move, was excellent. The picture in the guidebook of Ellen Wilts following this wearing slacks and a button-up blouse, a fashionable wide-brimmed hat, and converse sneakers has always been a favorite of mine. It struck me that it would probably be a bit of a challenge to the fledgling 5.6 trad leader. For one thing, there are some slightly tricky moves, and the step-around itself is pretty heady and exposed, especially for Tahquitz. Furthermore, the whole second pitch, and a lot of the third, are traversing, so it's important to place gear with the follower in mind. For a middle-aged woman in the 1950's, Ellen Wilts was quite a badass. There are a few variations for the third pitch, and wanting to stay true to history, I chose the original one, but I suspect the more direct finish (186b in the book) might have been better. Also, with all the ledges and slightly lacking pro, there were a few moves on this pitch that were a bit scary. I've got to get back to leading harder stuff!
CHUCK AND ELLEN WILTS
Chuck and Ellen Wilts were a well regarded '50's climbing team. On one occasion, a lady tourist was standing on the walkway at Morro Rock in Sequoia Park when Chuck's fingers grasped the last ledge of the arduous south face route they had ascended. The tourist gasped to see this apparition rise. Noticing the wedding band on Chuck's finger, she asked something like "Young man, what would your wife say if she knew you were doing anything this dangerous?" Chuck looked down and shouted, "Hey, Ellen, somebody here wants to know your opinion of this climb!"
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