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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Way to get after it Gentlemen. Almost makes me wish I still lived in Cali. Just have to pay a visit. . . .
Just went up and checked my backyard boulders this afternoon. Still under snow, Aaaarg.
You guys should feel guilty taking valuable forum space away from the Obama-able Snowman and (Sir Edmund) Hillary. Jeez.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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OK, here's the Arch Rock TR, etc. More wideness, just down the road.
Met up with Micha Saturday morning at Arch rock entrance. Neither of us had been to this formation... Not wanting to start out too hard, we selected Entrance Exam, at only 5.9.
Casting off, I climbed mightily for maybe 15 minutes, and stopped to rest. Looking down, I see that I was about a body length above Micha's head. This was turned out to be the pace for the whole route. OK, it's a chimney, but this part is 5.8, so no big deal, right?
I've noticed a tendency in myself before, to squeeze it too tight, where the pro is better, and it feels more secure (chest jamb), but the climbing is more strenuous.
Also a tendency to focus tightly on the crack, and miss the opportunities out on the face or for wider stemming, and sure enough, those happened again.
Anyway, I eventually made it to the first (optional) belay. I'll take the rest, and Micha can wake up.
We had some big cams, so I wussed along, pushing a pair of them up with me.
They don't call me bold for nothing- wait, they just don't call me bold!
There are some chockstones, which actually provided the few holds on the whole route.
Coming over one of them:
Whew, made it!
Here's the last chockstone/roof. I managed to pump out and fall from the top of this.
looking into the maw on the way down:
This took most of the day, but one double rope rappel got us to the ground, where I began to redouble my search for better kneepads.
On Sunday, my friend from the gym came out, and we got up a few things at Churchbowl, in spite of my screaming groin and hip flexors.
A fine weekend, indeed.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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nice Jay - chimneys are a balance between security and being able to move; nothing like getting in and snuggling between the rock. Always takes some internal convincing in my case to get out to the best size to make upward progress.
Knee pads can make a difference too.
Great send on a Pratt old school classic. The thing I always ponder on one of those climbs is that those old dads had no pro in much of the climb. "Technique was their protection," which is an inspiration mantra I often resort to when even the modern gear won't work.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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nice job. Thats a hard one. Pratt and friends were pretty tough.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Hey Jay,
Thanks for posting pics of EE. I've wanted to climb that thing for a while. Looks cool.
Z
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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jay did you ride onto that Bong-ett? When I led it I didn't place a cam up there to keep the rope running efficiently and kept imaginting taking a whistler onto that (vintage '65)pin, having it pop, and taking an even bigger whistler!
Those guys really were tough!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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No, I had a solid cam in the hand crack above. The bong looked pretty sound, though.
Thanks for the feedback, all.
This was also the first valley trip for my new (to me) rig- '03 Outback. It cruised Old Priest grade, and the wet curves as well.
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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bump for this rock climbing stuff
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L
climber
Malibu, baby....in a Cheetah shirt
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Great photos, Jay. Man, that thing looks painful.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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sorry we missed you guys, it was a great weekend!
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MZiebell
Social climber
Prescott, AZ
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bump
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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here is spyork starting up Elevator Shaft 5.8
entering the chimney
Gary in the chimney, the rope hangs straight down
Young local Gary toproping Outer Limits 5.10c
elements of the BAWC + nutjob assemble under the Cookie, Left 5.10a offwidth
nutjob busting out "some master ninja moves seldom seen"
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Clog dab? Hahahaha.;)
Metolius style edit: I could be wrong.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
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wide world bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
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Wyde wednesday style bump
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Let us know!