What happened to all the "Glory Boys/Girls"

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George

Ice climber
Los Alamos, NM
Feb 8, 2008 - 09:29am PT
Shelley Dunbar and her husband Andrew are running the US distribution for Sea to Summit (the Aussie/New Zealand equivalent of Outdoor Research) based in Boulder. I only know them professionally, but they are great folks who are doing an amazing job with that company.

Bobbi Bensman is repping Gramicci and Salomon (she is the Gramicci rep for the store I buy for). I lived in AZ for 7 years and her name is all over FA's in that state. I always get a kick out of meeting people I have read about for years. 99% of the time they are great people who just love climbing and the outdoors. Bobbi and Shelley are great examples of this.

George
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 8, 2008 - 11:42am PT
Hi Mimi,

I've been long fascinated by the lithe, tenacious, adventurous women who pushed the climbing standards prior to our generation. Diana Hunter epitomized that I'd say; a women who did a lot with very little physical strength.

There would seem to be plenty of examples indicating the women outprove the men in terms of physique, connective tissue health and duration of lifetime performance in climbing.

Coral & Beth.
Coral visited the shop where I made Fish portaledge components some years ago, early 90's. I had my chance to ask her all about her climbing days, which by her account were long past. I'm not so good at quoting people, but the gist of her interest in climbing was predicated upon the uniqueness and rarity of the pursuit during those early years.

Beth,
Who I don't really know, but met once or twice about town, seems really well put together and by accounts still climbs well.

Jim Michael I run into more often than Dan. Like some of us, he's experienced some long standing elbow troubles. He's still got that look in his eyes that speaks of a love for climbing.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 8, 2008 - 12:07pm PT
Oli can perhaps verify; I'm pretty sure Coral is featured here.
This is a poster I had framed, as it epitomizes to me the lean, elegant, footwork oriented style of the early 70's:

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 8, 2008 - 02:14pm PT
Hey Roy... say, that's a nice poster!!!
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Feb 8, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
Yes, that's Coral Bowman. She was a fine climber in her day, light as a feather...
burp

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 8, 2008 - 03:22pm PT
Merrill Bitter -- still works at IME in SLC, swears by the Zone diet, is ripped, and still climbs at least in the .13's ... all at the tender age of fifty-something. Still the most unassuming nice guy around.

burp
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Feb 8, 2008 - 03:41pm PT
Does anyone remember Coral and her near death experience on the Naked Edge.

See first came to America with Chris Piesker who bought RP's to the US.

Jim M. still climbs and live in Louisville, Co where he sell RP's.

Small world.

The last time I saw Jim he was at Castle Rock climbing and I was fly fishing...I pulled about three trout out in the time he climbed a pitch. He is a fly fisherman and think a little jealous at the moment. Every time I catch one I yell up to him...just to rub it in.

He a really cool, quite guy.


Pat...good to see your posting again...how are you??
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 8, 2008 - 04:27pm PT
Merrill Bitter: fully cranking in the late '90's?

Still crankin' today. With the opening of the new climbing gym, Momentum, here in town, has become a fixture there. Probably surfs the 'taco. Say, hey, Merrill!

Was funny, at the AAC booth at the OR show, they had some old climbing and rock and ice magazines laying about. First one, Merrill on an ice route in Provo Canyon on the cover. Second one, Snowbird Comp, nice shot of Merrill in the crowd.

Geoff Weigand: oh my GOD!

Saw him on a bike near the BD complex here in SLC last year. Looked fit.

Dale Goddard

Seen him in the last year or two. Stopped by Rockreation (was the original manager if I recall correctly, when they opened. Signed my belay card!).

-Brian in SLC
homemade salsa

Trad climber
west tetons
Feb 8, 2008 - 05:37pm PT
That poster of Coral, "Dance in a Vertical World" I pulled off a telephone pole in Boulder back in 79. It has been one of my prize possessions for years, lives over my dresser. I try to use it as a mantra or as inspiration while teaching climbing, especially to women.

I was honored to work one of the Women That Rock events up here in the Tetons with Beth Bennett one year- how quiet and unassuming she was, but you could sense the steel beneath.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 8, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
Whatever happened to Mia Axon. Once she divorced Dougald McD she never appeared in the mags again?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 8, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
I wonder if my slingshot was made by Jim Erikson.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 8, 2008 - 11:25pm PT
I snagged some mag schwag to shore up the OP:


Photo of Geoff Weigand, by Bill Hatcher, R&I #58, 1993



Karn & Goddard, Beth Wald Photo, Climbing special edition, Witness, 2002:



Got Guns?
Yaniro R&I #57, 1993



Skinner & Bobbi,
featured in a product endorsement style that never seemed to stick,
Climbing #120, 1990



Next to Smith Rock's Chain Reaction,
Rainbow wall was one of the more photographed route of the late 80's,
Climber, Wolfgang Schweiger, Climbing #120, 1990:



The all-time fave shenanigans of Kurt Albert:

WBraun

climber
Feb 8, 2008 - 11:30pm PT
Yanairo you just paint green and he'll pass for that green hulk guy.

Kurt Albert, .... he's got the right idea.
Mimi

climber
Feb 9, 2008 - 01:02am PT
Thanks for the correction about Beth, Oli.

I didn't get to meet Diana Hunter.

Oli/Tar, isn't there a great story of Coral cruising Wild Country after Henry Barber backed off? Significant ascent at that time especially under those circumstances.

Bob, here's a link to a well written exerpt by Coral of her near fatal accident.

http://books.google.com/books?id=WdGO1j1P20AC&pg=PA192&lpg=PA192&dq=coral+bowman+climber&source=web&ots=aw0g794E27&sig=-MfLf2JsnkqhfKQiM18BamCwl4U#PPA192,M1
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 9, 2008 - 01:17am PT
I'll let Oli take that one Mimi.

For that dawn of sport climbing Glory Days era,
Probably even outpacing Edlinger on US soil,
I'd say Jerry Moffat was KING.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 9, 2008 - 01:30am PT
From R&I #57, 1993,
A Moffatt interview:
"the Power and the Glory"

Bob Palais

Trad climber
UT
Feb 24, 2008 - 11:49am PT
Definitely coincidental topic on several accounts. Had a similar conversation about some such folks on a hike a couple of days ago, and also, saw Geoff Weigand at Momentum last week. I also had seen him flying by on a bike by my house last year. As far as I know from last contact, Mark Hudon and his family are doing well in Hood River with http://www.hoodrivercoffeeco.com/store/pc/mainIndex.asp
I googled Max Jones where I last heard he was near Tahoe and found this: http://www.theflumetrail.com/ "Max is a two time National Mountain Bike Champion and Mountain Bike Hall of Fame Member" and "Spooner Lake Cross Country Ski Area owned and operated under special permit of the Nevada State Parks and the USFS by outdoor experts Max Jones and Patti McMullan." I also got to see Russ Raffa along with Bullet Bobby D', and Hugh Herr (now an award winning MIT-Harvard biomechanics professor/inventor) at the Gunks '80s reunion in October. I also see Merrill Bitter at Momentum, and he is fit and nice and encouraging to all around him as ever. A mutual friend told me a few weeks ago that Beth (Wald) was back in Afghanistan for an extended trip currently, and there are some nice pages about her on the nikonnet site `Legends behind the lens"
http://www.nikonnet.com/dyn/articles/article_detail/68.html
http://www.nikonnet.com/dyn/articles/article_detail/100.html
as well as her own very nice site!:
http://bethwaldphotography.com/
(I did a little climbing and diving in Ko Phi Phi over Christmas and got back in touch with Cathy Beloeil, and when she came to SLC for a visit last month, on her way to her new residence in Bolivia, a lot of friends came down to Momentum to see her too.)
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 24, 2008 - 01:44pm PT
hey there all, say, this is a great history post/thread here... here's hoping a bump, will add some nice things to learn....


*and say there werner, wbraun, as to this quote of yours:
"Aren't you glad I'm here to screw up your thread ...... "

wow---say there, a good rescue man can NEVER hurt, tighten that ol' screw a bit more, as---SOFAS, (or couches) as you said just before that quote of yours, are VERY TRULY down-right dangerous... thanks for the attempt at rescueing folks stuck on them... :)

(not sure it will do much good though, as they CAN be habit forming... ) but, keep that ol' rescue-nature of yours working, :)
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 24, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
Wow, hi Bob, long time no see (well OK, only a month).

Didn't pick up on the stuff about Diana when I saw this thread before.
I met her once, think it was '74. I had a pair of new EBs size 39, just to small for me, so even though I'd put on nice custom panels I put them up for sale and Diana snagged them from me in Eldo.


Three days later I go into Rocky Mountain to register for a bivy and I recognize one of the shoes sitting on a desk and say,"Hey, I know who that belongs to".

The ranger says,"So do we. It came off her body when she fell."



Put the chill right into me. Climbing got a whole lot more serious.
radair

climber
Feb 24, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
This is a really good thread, dating back to the days when some of us fossils were in our prime (if you could call it that). I wonder how many others have elbow and wrist problems these days...

Ken Nichols - some things don't change. Ken was caught and prosecuted for chopping at a Massachusetts crag last year. The stopken.org info: http://www.stopken.org/Nichols%20Pleads%20Guilty.html

I met Max Jones at his Spooner lake Outdoor Company a few years ago, where he runs a shuttle service for mountain bikers. He is a super nice guy and seemed to have a really good gig there. His site: http://www.theflumetrail.com/

Ed Webster is a likely addition to this list. He is married and lives in Freeport, Maine these days. I've heard he still does speaking engagements and book signings. It's been a couple of years but he seemed very happy the last time I saw him. Ed's Mountain Imagery web site: http://www.mtnimagery.com/

Thanks for the memories!
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