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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:22pm PT
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Nice pic of the Killer B on Follywood there Walleye!
From the ground, that thing looks stout.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:39pm PT
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Here's some grade A filler shorter stuff that hasn't been mentioned:
Enema Crack
Anticipation
Hardd
La Escuela
Crack A Go Go
And for longish stuff:
Demon's Delight
Moratorium
Windfall
Freestone
Hotline
Mary's Tears/Crucifix
Powerpoint
Some obscure tour clean up I've yet to sample:
Gait of Power
Rock Bottom
Dynamo Hum
Atomic Finger Crack
The Warbler
And last...
Moongerms (shuh-yah... hang on tight!)
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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Walleye, Follywood may have had a second but it wasn't by me. I did, however, go up their w/ Bengston and I think Marky (pictured above) shortly after Dave's first and tried it on a top rope with him. I did well on it but fell up high. In any case it deserves attention because the rock quality is killer and its burly for the grade. Don't you live in the Valley still? You oughta ask Dave about its history I am curious myself.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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The one I was trying to think of earlier is called adrenalin, and it has a variation called endorphin.
I did both. As I recall the variation is harder and more direct. The pro is dicey? Anyone done these?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
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Good to from you, Walleye. Maybe I'll see you guys in the Spring.
Too bad that area is a bowling area now, because there are some plums over there.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Almost forgot Mother Earth, another dandy on my wish list.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2008 - 10:00pm PT
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ah so Werner was yanking my chain. He sent me a nice email as such. I am a forum rookie.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 01:55pm PT
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Werner sometimes gets crabby, a lil' cranky even.
Don't pay the ole grey hair no mind when he turns sour!
All grades aside, here's a list of standard Valley Classics to work through, when you get some "free" time:
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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Overhang Overpass. Has anyone ever done the (another) Donnini classic? And if so who would feel it to be 5.11C? and the first short entry pitch at 5.9?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
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Roy,
Generator Crack at 5.9, but Chingando at 5.10??!
Musta been a good day on the hersh or maui wowi.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:29pm PT
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I have but a long time ago. Do you think it was a bit easier than 11c? I am guessing it must be as when I climbed it 11c was near the top of my scale and I don't remember any epic moments.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:32pm PT
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What, Generator is more like 10C right?
That's a typo; or a write-o.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
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how about steppin out folks. Only 10d but boy did I have a scare on that one. My partner Stu Polack led the thing and we had one giant cam that he had made in his garage. He walked the thing all the way up however near the top the crack became too big. he started for the top maybe 20 up and all of a sudden the giant cam slip all the way down, maybe 60 feet. He at that point was fs the route and he looked real sketchy. God I was scared. I just kept yelling up to him to crank it. He did, but frankly barely. I was a bit of an as#@&%e and after following said "that wasn't too bad, you sure it's 10d?"
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:50pm PT
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Kris, I was on Adrenaline a long time ago, 81.
I had a pretty tough time, spent a lot of time almost falling
and pulling myself back in, fell twice. I'm not sure whether I
fell onto one piece or two. I only went as far as the bolt.
My recollection is that the pro is generally good enough. I don't
know anything about Endorphin.
sm
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:27pm PT
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martygarrison
To jog your memory, Donnini's dihedral "Overhanging Overpass" is definately no epic, just clean crack climbing on a stellar block. It is hand size dependant though, so could be hand jams or thin hands and rat-ley ring locks, short but sustainly overhanging.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 03:31pm PT
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Mark I remember the climb but I just don't remember it at 11c. Maybe I was having a stellar day, but way back when 11c would have been dang hard for me. I just don't remember it being that hard.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:34pm PT
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Russ,
Dog's roof at 12a? Your digits must be the size of my forearms.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:36pm PT
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Scuffy, you were there before I was. And before Endorphine as well. I just remember thinking that was a nice bit of rock there.
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:45pm PT
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Marty,
What do you recall it feeling more like? But, if I was to compare it to climbs like any pitch on the Rostrum, Chouniard/Herbert (Except Afro Cuban flakes), Enduro Corner or Boulder pitch or another Donini classic like Enema (Overhang Overpass feels harder than 1 letter grade more than Enema) I would have to say that it was stout, but again hand size does matter sometimes and it is all subjective, only numbers and letters.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
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Honestly Mark I have done all those routes except freeing ch. The corner on Aman has always been 11c for me, enema not so bad. I even just double checked to make sure I was talking about the same route. We are. I actually hawked this route for years as it was such a beautiful looking corner. I don't think I can rate it with any accuracy other than to say it was an early 5.11 and I wasn't experienced enough to break 5.11 down. In those days for me 5.11 was either hard of Fing hard and who knows, maybe my very small hands helped. If it had been stout for me I would remember every move. I am going to contact with my old time partner to make sure that this is the route that my memory serves me.
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