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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Dec 24, 2004 - 02:01pm PT
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My personal favorite is Elevator Shaft on Cookie.
Brutus
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 24, 2004 - 04:24pm PT
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Thought of another one.
Fantasia @ Lover's Leap. Is that still rated 5.8?
I can remember climbing it when it was at my limit ('75?) slinging rounded knobs, channeling the Robins description from advanced Rockcraft, and feeling all the time that I certainly would die.
Probably still a good adventure.
Isn't the traverse pitch on the Casual route on the diamond of long's Peak 5.8? People have died and become disfigured (different groups) on that one, as I was all too aware when I lead it as a youth.
Dropping down a notch or so, Upper slot on the Nautilus @ Vedauwoo is a 7+ (used to be 6) that has shut down a number of "5.10 leaders." Not out there, though, just technical.
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malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Dec 24, 2004 - 04:41pm PT
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That 5.8 pitch on E. Butt of El Cap which is on the cover of the supertopo free climbs book is pretty out there.
The 4th pitch of Braille Book is really hard for the 5.8 grade. I had just done the climb for the first time this summer and was chatting with Bridwell in camp IV. He said "Is that still 5.8?" and that Robbins was pissed at him when he put it up for undergrading it.
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coiler
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 25, 2004 - 04:30pm PT
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"Skyrocket" at lovers' leap- so runout you can't even see the last tied off knob when you're about 1/2 the way up. Lot's of mantles between you and the belay. Halfway up thinking to myself,"maybe this wasn't such a good idea." Along the same lines is the route "wild Turkey" on the lower butress. Puts the spice into life. At lover's leap any 5.8r will make you want a hug from your mommy.
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shakey legs
Trad climber
san diego ca
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Dec 26, 2004 - 12:10am PT
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How about the guillotine at suicide the pucker factor makes it worthwhile.
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dirtineye
climber
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Dec 26, 2004 - 08:48pm PT
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That's interesting that you (and a lot of others, I'm an oddball) think that the crescent pitch of the OR is "out there". To me it is the most protectable and sustained pitch of the OR, maybe the neatest pitch, maybe the most interesting, but not anything to fret over.
P1, or that stupid traverse that is a pretty much a sidewalk with a lot of exposure, but has crap for solid placements are more bothersome in my book, even though they are not 5.8, hell the traverse might be 5.2, I didn't look in a book, but I'm guessing maybe 5.2 or 3. Since nearly every spot for gear seemed incapable of holding a fall, and if the second did fall, you'd have a hard time getting them back on route even if the pro held, that's the pitch that I'd be worried about taking someone who might get rattled over.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 26, 2004 - 11:55pm PT
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If you want "out there", there is only one:
Top pitch of Modern Times at the Gunks. Unbelievable that this is only 5.8!
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Dec 27, 2004 - 09:47pm PT
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Magnolia Thunderpussy III 5.8-, Granite Mountain (wink wink). This place is stout, the new guides have been altered from their original grades, and they are still stiff!!!!!!!!!!!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Dec 28, 2004 - 02:12am PT
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Pitch 5 of Sands of Time, Cal Dome
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 28, 2004 - 04:27pm PT
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how about a 5.7 ("a 5.10 climber's 5.7 with a shitty quarter inch bolt and questionable anchor above")...
at the Needles on theMagician: Poof, 5.7, p2 and p3 are very out there... especially the belay behind the flakes at the top of p2... Steve had a proud lead on this with me belaying and chanting over and over: "don't slip, don't slip, please, please, please Steve don't slip"... I wasn't happy to hear the off-route Steve wonder out loud "gee, this flake might blow if I weight it, well let's see, watch me Ed", he didn't know how well I was watching...
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dmitry
Trad climber
Chita, Russia
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Last pitch of Modern Times at the Trapps, Gunks
The traversing (3rd) pitch of Super Slab in Eldo :)
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Suprise, Suicide. Run it out 50-60 ft as much sideways as up, do the move, THEN get the only bolt, then run it out another 50-60 ft, (although progresively easier).
The Mechanics route is "out there" considering it was done in the 30's with hemp rope and deck shoes, but the crux of the really run section is 5.4-5.6. Just feels much worse looking down at all those chicken heads!
Even though it's only 5.4-5.6 or so the face pitch on W.P.O.D. has a similar feel. It looks like if you blow it you're taking a ride down a giant saw blade. Heard that one has more bolts now.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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E.C.Joe added ONE bolt to the last pitch... I did the climb last summer with Steve, missed the 5.8 move on the second pitch and did something one hell of a lot harder... but Steve cruised that part of the pitch using "Eddie logic".
A great climb!
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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"Magnolia Thunderpussy III 5.8-, Granite Mountain (wink wink). This place is stout, the new guides have been altered from their original grades, and they are still stiff!!!!!!!!!!! "
High desert in the house reprezent reprezent-zent!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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"Magnolia Thunderpussy III 5.8-, Granite Mountain (wink wink).
Naah, that's not stout, just full value =)
I once freesoloed this in Front of Jim Waugh, just weeks after his girlfriend had fallen off a cliff. I thought he would never forgive me. It seemed harder than I remembered, too! No move harder than (Vedauwoo) 5.8, though, and I'm sure it would take good pro!
-Caveat Emptor
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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not quite on par with Valley cracks, but if you have a chance don't miss:
OUTERSPACE on Snowcreek wall in Leavenworth, Wa
the last 2 to 3 pitches on the upper headwall are 300 ft of perfect 5.8 hands with chickenheads for your feet. pure joy
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Yeah, I was going to mention Outer Space but it didn't seem to fit the trend the thread was going, especially since the gear is bomber the whole headwall. The 5.7+ traverse pitch couple pitches lower is pretty full value though, specially if those flakes were to blow.
Still my favorite 5.8 climb ever though.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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I guess the name is more "out there" then the climb. the whole upper Snowcreek wall is kinda like being on the moon, biggest chickenheads ever...
what does "out there" mean anyway?
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jclimb
Trad climber
Durango, Co
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how about the last couple (maybe few) pitches of lucky streaks on fairview in the dark, snowing, no headlamp, and a crying girlfriend after being stuck behind slow parties all afternoon? then almost crawling off the side of the cliff trying to get off the dome in said conditions? that felt "out there".
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2005 - 11:08pm PT
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I guess by out-there I was thinking of exposure, first. Hopefully the pro is sufficiently distant to enhance the feeling. Steep, exposed, airy-- you know. The kind of thing where you look around and think "man,this climbing stuff sure takes you to some rad places."
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