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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
Lanham MD
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2007 - 02:15pm PT
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DR, I just read your R&I article. Great piece of work! I enjoyed immensly on a rainy, Friday afternoon in the city.
Cheers,
Matt
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WBraun
climber
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I think it was Royal Robins that did the first ascent on aid a long time ago.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I too assumed this was a thread about K2.
I knew of Kauk's 5.14 crack, but didn't know he called it thus. Cool! Shouldn't we go sicc Tommy on it?
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Broken
climber
Texas
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Karl wrote: "Funny, one of the few 5.14s in the world that you can (or maybe should) climb in a bus-like boot like Kaukulators."
I noticed that Kauk sent it in Miuras in the video, Kaukulators in the photos.
Wonder if he climbed it cleanly in both pairs....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 28, 2011 - 02:33am PT
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bump
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Feb 28, 2011 - 03:06am PT
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Has anyone done a ground up ascent of Magic Line?
(no preplacement)... You gotta love Bachar's subtlety!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 28, 2011 - 09:23am PT
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What issue of R &I was that?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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In reference to The Warbler's comment:
908. Dihedral Wall 5.14a
929. Magic Mushroom - free 5.14a
946. Nose Free 5.14a
1718. Washington Column - South Face 5.14a or 5.8 C1
1944. Magic Line 5.14b
478. Meltdown (2) 5.14
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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May 20, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
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Sweet Photos above. Bump!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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May 20, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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Back in March we noticed a fixed line on Meltdown. If T. Caldwell tried it and couldn't get it, I'm guessing it'll be a while before a second?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:04am PT
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bump for Magic Line. Another year gone by without a 2nd.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 05:58am PT
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Mal, when I saw the title I thought of K2 as well.
Wish Casarotto could have got it, with all the vision and work he put in to it. His death in a crevasse fall near the K2 basecamp after finally giving up on it was tragic.
A Polish team ended up getting later that season it but I think at least one member died on the descent.
Don't think it's ever seen a second ascent.
Hard core.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 28, 2012 - 10:12am PT
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Someone told me his son Lonnie on sight flashed the second ascent placing his gear on lead sometime late this year.
I was told he cruised it effortlessly .......
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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I'd believe that - Lonnie is wicked strong
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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yeah that seems quite plausible.
The legacy route on Vernal Falls was "The Right Side of Vernal Falls: Al Steck, Jim Wilson, Dick Long in October, 1966. II 5.8 A1. You started from the left side of the Falls and crossed it to access a jamcrack and chimney 60 feet below the top. It looks like it was two pitches. I don't think Magic Line was originally nailed by RR. I can't find record of it anyway. It is highly likely that people did nail it though as a tiny practice pitch. it is only about 50 feet off the trail and a natural feature that normally would have been pinned out badly by this point, were it not for its obscurity.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
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I believe he sent it too on his 40th birthday. That's so rad!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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could have been his 30th...
Plausible for sure. That kid takes after his dad in so many ways.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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There's an interview of Lonnie Kauk, by Hazel Findlay, published in October 2012.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4972
It implies he had not repeated Magic Line as of the date of the interview.
He could have done it later in October, or in November.
Or the interview could be wrong - it was stated as background material and he was not asked about it directly.
The article does state that he and Alex Honnold have repeated Crossroads and that it is 5.13d (vs. 5.13a in the guidebook).
And in a different article, Alex said it's 5.13d, and that he also linked Phantom to Crossroads to make Phantom Road, also 5.13d.
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-honnold-sends-book-hate-513d-and-more
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 28, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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Talked to Lonnie's belayer and he said Lonnie fell and did not repeat Magic Line.
So my initial report was inaccurate and completely wrong.
Stupid me ......
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
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Thanks for the update, Werner.
It's still cool to hear he tried it. (Didn't make it; well that happens and we know it is very hard...).
I wonder if Alex has looked at it or tried it?
He says he's not very good as bouldery stuff, though.
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