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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:41am PT
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Nothin' wrong with some shameless sport climbing every once in a while. I go about 2-3 times a year just for kicks. Good place to train, and bring some freinds. Not all my buddies like to climb popcorn : ( but those are the gay ones.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:43am PT
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If Brian Bock can pull the next series of moves and the roof that's coming up in THOSE SHOES (and no cord) he's my personal hero.
Next set of photo's in the series please.
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 14, 2007 - 11:48am PT
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I'm not sure how far he wants to go without a rope, though.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Nov 14, 2007 - 02:40pm PT
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Despite my previously stated "one timer" status, I have to agree with Doug that New Jack would be a brilliant place to do a sushifest...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Nov 14, 2007 - 03:16pm PT
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Wasn't there a Barstow gangbanger shooting incident last year?
If that doesn't make you want to go .....
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2007 - 04:17pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2007 - 04:49pm PT
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Next set of photo's in the series please.
Maybe Brian will tell that story himself.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Nov 14, 2007 - 05:32pm PT
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If there is a sushifest at New Jack, I am certain it will be a well secured camp. I know I will be discreetly prepared to fend off marauders.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Nov 14, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
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Oh yeah, my NJC thread about being terrorized. We hadn't been back until about a month ago. Didn't spend the night out there, went to a motel instead.
At any rate, you know, NJ isn't climbing paradise, but for a quick day or weekend jaunt for some fun, bouldery sport climbing it's fine! There's plenty of hard stuff and the weather is really nice unless it's Summer, or windy and butt-fuk freezing (and like Sooze says, you get a free dermabrasion treatment).
Yes there's a lot of chalk on the popular routes such as Espresso and Red Devil. They're also practically drive-up climbs (they were until the BLM blocked off some of the "driveways") and are supposedly "must do's".
No, the ambiance can't rival Josh or other "local" (and that's a relative term) crags, but being out there in the Spring when things are greening up, on a lucky day or night when there aren't any off-roaders or shooters, can be peaceful indeed.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 14, 2007 - 07:19pm PT
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Yeah Bluering, I did the FA on that one in '78 with a whole mob of folks including Todd Gordon.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Nov 14, 2007 - 09:44pm PT
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New Jack is a great place to climb if you happens to live in Barstow.
Red Devil was originally called "Johnny Jump Up" when it was first TR'ed (Is that pronounced Terd?) back when my daughter was just learning to bounce in one. (A Johnny Jump Up is a kiddie swing that clamps & hangs from a doorway on springs... the babe jumps up and down in it, developing muscle power.)
Back then the whole place was called Sawtooth Canyon. An early partial list or routes was kept at the BLM office in Barstow.
Brutus
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Nov 15, 2007 - 12:14am PT
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If this is the heart and soul of SoCal climbing, how is the Sespe Black Wall and Tahquitz compared?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2007 - 02:51am PT
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If this is the heart and soul of SoCal climbing, how is the Sespe Black Wall and Tahquitz compared?
I dunno, how would you compare them?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Nov 15, 2007 - 12:27pm PT
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The climbers at Tahquitz and Suicide, along with Josh and some other spots like Woodson and other places around the area were on the leading edge in the development of traditional free climbing. The art flourished here, and of course found a fine expression during the heydays of The Stonemasters. And it flourishes today too. Just a couple weeks ago I had the pleasure to watch one of our SoCal locals – we call him scientist Bob - float the notorious P2 of Hades (yeah, this is the 5.13a one that Largo wrote his famous story about having seen certain antics going on.) A beautiful thing to see, certainly spectacular to do (and we’re not talkin’ Red Rocks .13a here, if you smell what I’m cookin’.)
I mean nothing negative about New Jack, after all what could possibly be wrong with going out and clipping up and hangin’ with Bro’s and Bettie’s and all that good stuff.
But if you want to find the “heart and soul” of SoCal climbing, you need to look a little deeper under the skin.
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L
climber
Right side of the Brain, Left side of the Road.
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Nov 15, 2007 - 03:02pm PT
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Sawtooth Canyon (the name was hijacked by the Jack Of All Tirades himself) is an amazing sportclimbing crag.
It's sport, boys & girls, not trad, so there are going to be obvious differences in the routes and the climbing. Stop being so mean to the rock. It's a beautiful place of Dali-style rock formations with some wonderful routes that are both challenging and...
Oh, wait a minute. I'm wrong. Never mind. Russ is absolutely right. It's a pit. It's got ganstas and off-roaders and broken glass all over, and there's a murder there every other night. Everything you touch breaks off in your hand. You'd hate it. Really. All of you. Stay away. Just stay away. Thank you.
Chiloe, stop photoshopping those nice routes over the truly hideous choss piles that actually exist. You too, Russ. Stop it.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2007 - 03:44pm PT
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got ganstas and off-roaders and broken glass all over, and there's a murder there every other night.
Just as I suspected, heart and soul.
Julia takes the first of Three Giant Steps:
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Nov 15, 2007 - 03:45pm PT
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Oh come on now, L...
No one is seriously disparaging the joint. And Jack ought to have the place named as he likes. He put a huge amount of effort into it, both getting everything straight with the blm, which was a feat in itself, and in route development.
But I will knot concede my point about the heart and sole thing...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2007 - 03:48pm PT
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It Should Be Called Do What?
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L
climber
Right side of the Brain, Left side of the Road.
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Nov 15, 2007 - 04:02pm PT
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Kris,
Jack got his kudos up at Williamson with that whole area past the London Wall being renamed Jackistan. In fact, considering how many bolts/anchors he's cut on routes that weren't his (can you say Carpe Diem), he got more than he deserved.
The fact that he's bolted routes in Sawtooth is admirable...but do you really think it's worth renaming a beautiful canyon for one of many developers (you know about the Top of the World Boys, don't you?)?
Knott in my humble opinion.
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