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Impaler
Trad climber
Berkeley
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I just did it during the last weekend of September.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I know you're out there...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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I always liked that route....clean and flawless. Matt's right, it's only 10c for a little bit.
AtTheCrags (ATC), jb
Edit: Photo by Phil Bard.
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Mimi
climber
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Stonemaster Calendar 1988.
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbin's good
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2007 - 11:35am PT
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Cool photos, y’all. Thanks for posting them.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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This is a great Lunatic Fringe thread. Bump
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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" . . . many consider it to be the hardest 10c in the Valley . . ."
They obviously haven't been on Waverly Wafer!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Barry Bates bagged several classic short crack routes: The Fringe, Five and Dime, Vanising Point, and Center Route on Independence. Center Route is by far the hardest, and the Fringe is almost certainly the easiest and most classic - and most repeated. Vanishing Point is hardly ever done owing to the hike and Five and Dime is a totally different climb with SLCD's.
JL
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Double D
climber
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Bump for way cool thread and pictures!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Lunatic is sweet. It has three cruxes, plus other tricky bits if your hands are the wrong size. I've taken lots of folks up Lunatic and seen them fall in different places.
First there's the smaller fingers at the bottom.
Next varying size pure jamming that's hard if you have the wrong hands
then a flaring wide bit that wastes a lot of energy for those without the skills.
big rest, then overhanging thin crack bulge.
Pump is starting to set it. More steep jamming to make it worse and then it gets thin again.
Two ways to go but now it's subtle and the locks aren't as visible as you think. Folks are pumped and it's easy to fall at the end.
One of my proudest top rope blind folded sends was Lunatic. Ironically, those final locks actually seemed easier blindfolded cause I could "feel" them better without being confused by "seeing" them
Peace
Karl
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Re: Kevin's comments on Barry cleaning the Fringe.
Barry once told me that when Bridwell showed him the original state of what is now Outer Limits at the Cookie it looked like a jungle. He didn't want to get involved in a cleaning fest so he passed on doing the FA of the route.
Bruce
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 16, 2008 - 11:05am PT
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If I can just scrub the lichen off this bump.....
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Dec 16, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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I always thought it was 10c. short crux, but 10c. Reeds was always 5.9 when I did it and we used that as a standard 5.9. Sheeries crack I always did in flyers, bomber locks.
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 16, 2008 - 12:06pm PT
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Whether its the easiest or hardest might be debatable depending on hand size, but seems to be the consensus that its one of the best. Merciful rests make it doable and pround route for those of us for whom the grade pushing limits. I've done it twice, but the outcome would surely be just as much in doubt the next time I get on it.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Dec 16, 2008 - 12:41pm PT
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Fringe the hardest 10c? Doubtful. Try Edge of Night on for size and report back.
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 16, 2008 - 03:25pm PT
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I thought the first pitch of Salathe was quite casual for 10c. Probably the easiest I've done. That doesn't detract from it though.
I fell out of Lunatic because I got tunnel vision and tried staying in the crack at the top instead of moving left on the face. Other than that it was very consistent in difficulty with hard moves between good rests.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 16, 2008 - 03:43pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz wrote: "Fringe the hardest 10c? Doubtful. Try Edge of Night on for size and report back."
Doubtful you'll get anyone reporting back. It's been said that there's no one under fifty years old who has even done Edge of Night.
JL
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Dec 16, 2008 - 04:00pm PT
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This gets tricky. It's been said that Edge of Night was never
climbed by anyone over 50.
And that nobody who has ever done it is under 50.
Any more complications possible?
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Dec 16, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
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I've got recent pics, will post up later. I am new to climbing at this grade, and I have to say it is VERY size dependent. One person's bomber fingerlock is another's brutal flaring fingertip... one persons' thin hands rest is another person's rattly ringlock.
For me, Lunatic Fringe was pretty desperate and consistently hard. It did have a few rest spots, after I learned how to rest with my foot smearing on a more textured spot of a vertical crack! Actually there are a few good spots to rest a foot in a handjam pod. But it is consistently hard.
That said, the same day I got Lunatic Fringe on-site no falls, I failed earlier to do the same on Stone Groove graded a letter easier (I weighted the rope for a few seconds on Stone Groove at the crux).
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