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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Just tryin to wind 'em up Scuffy.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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One of the hardest 5.9's in Yosemite is Cookie Center. Back in the day (and maybe it is still the case) you could not protect the 2nd pitch OW and just had to go for it with a very poor FP down low at the base. Does anybody fit into that thang?
Bruce
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Super Pooper at Tahquitz was rated 5.9 for years, now 10a/b.
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Mr. D
Trad climber
West Coast
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Triple S (5.8+)
Castor & Pollux (5.10a)
Pleasant Overhangs (5.7)
Seneca Rocks, WV
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Yes, the NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral is certainly more sustained and longer than some of the others. A step up from Central Pillar of Frenzy. Central Pillar itself is five pitches to Reed's Direct three. Maybe a touch easier.
The Split Pillar was originally graded 5.9 by Eric and Daryl - climbed with EBs, protected by hexes. Apart from a few moves at the bottom, it probably is only 5.9.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Yeah, after climbing the granite stuff around Phx and learning to respect 5.9 as hard climbing, we used to love going to J-Tree. We climbed about a number grade and a half harder.
Always thought Triple-S was about 5.8+
Maybe I climb better than I think...
Ken Trout (think it's the guidebook guy from Colo.) is over on mp.com suggesting that The Mace in Sedona is friggin' 5.10+
That's gotta be some kinda record for reverse-sandbag.
Had a buddy out here last month and we did some classics at Granite Mtn. He couldn't believe the ratings given to Said and Done (9+), Reunion (10a) and Slammer Jam (10a). I just said "Hey, that's the Granite Basin rating system dude!"
Mike. -- no fest for me. Hand that sucka off to the Sooze if you would and your reciprocating gift will be in the mail soon.
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Glaidig
Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
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I'll add two more. How about the "Right Side" of the Cookie Cliff (Valley), the second pitch can be a grunt-fest, and "Traveler Buttress" (Lover's Leap), which also has some serious groveling during its second pitch. Hmmm...seems to be an OW correlation here...
Oh yeah, how about Apron Jam (Valley)...
Guy
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I tried the Centre Route on the Cookie once, and failed miserably on the second pitch. Swimmer's chest or something. I've heard that you have to tunnel sideways, with your body horizontal, to get through.
Almost any 5.9 from the 1960s is suspect, as climbers then were reluctant to grade routes 5.10.
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kev
climber
CA
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Yo drc (aka dirtbag Vic)
I assume this is you Vic since we jumped on Pheobos, the Open Book and got our butts kicked on the Yawn this summer, and give the NH/boston stuff.
Well I guess we need to go do CPF then huh?
What's your Festivus deal? I'm thinking about Arizona this year...You free? Is your heart set on the biggest/latest new
years part in hidden valley again? Not sure when/where I am going for turkey day given my future xwife issues....
I'll phone you tonight or next week-off to Tenneesse this weekend and will play around on some sandstone stuff at T-wall.
For anyone still reading this he's also led Lena's (after at least a 6 pack).
Wanna go hit and run Lava Falls one day?
Congrats and sorry on the new job.....
I guess I'll have to celebrate beer-thirty for you now.
kev
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Erik
Ice climber
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Reed's Direct spanked me pretty bad. I had to rest on gear halfway up... *sob*... especially after reading John Long's story about the dude who took a whipper off this climb and had all his gear pull out...
Central Pillar of Frenzy was no prob, wicked climb. Loved every minute of it.
I also got spanked on Little John, hardest f#%@ing 5.8 I've ever attempted. Dunno why.
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K. Fosburg
Sport climber
park city, ut
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How about the first pitch of the Honeymoon Chimney?
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Miwok
climber
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Pitch 5 OW of the Rowell Route on Hetch Hetchy Dome, YNP, '5.9d'. Heh, heh...
ec -NO DOUBT!!! Nearly killed myself on that thing. I believe Galen said it to be the "hardest 5.9" he had done in YNP.
edit - when Clint and I put up Zeus I actually lead up the OW next to the 5th pitch of the South Face Route (Rowell Route). That ended in frustration and embarrasment.... Good catch Clint. :)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Here's the exact quote from Galen Rowell in the 1971 AAJ:
"We found the bottom pitches to be just as hard as the week before. One is a F9 crack which is possibly the most formidable free climbing I have encountered on a big wall."
ow has its own rating scale, and since Galen specialized in doing them....
That was an impressive lead into the unknown on the middle ow/flare, Tim! (Eventually we realized the left ow was not as bad as it looked...).
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Miwok
climber
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Thanks buddy.
Blasting next Thursday, may need to invest in a few bolts from your stash. Watch for the TR.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Clint
I agree! La Cosita Right is SO not 5.9! I'm sure a zillion ascents and the resulting slick factor did not help...but 5.9???
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DHike
climber
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Didn't SS get upgraded to .10b? Something about a broken foothold at the Wilson OH.
Watch out for sandbaggers... the hand crack pitch after the flying buttress will give a .9 climber a run for their money too.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mighty Hiker -
Right side of Split Pillar at 5.9? eh? It gets burly for sure
up there where it gets wide after the first 30m of pumpy hands.
I'd say a grade or two harder than Reed's Direct for sure.
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stella
climber
cali
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from the northwest....the aptly named northwest corner, north early winters spire, north cascades
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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East of Eden at Paradise Forks- 5.9+ and all of it. Is "5.9+" unique to AZ?
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