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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 31, 2007 - 08:57pm PT
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Don't be shy about that one, wild!
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Oct 31, 2007 - 09:26pm PT
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Onsighting Generator Crack
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Here is a gem from Canyon Country Climbs by Katy Cassidy and the late Earl Wiggins, 1989.
That is Mr. Bigbro product testing if I am not mistaken. Offwidths Are Beautiful!
From Mark Kroese's Fifty Favorite Climbs, 2001, Steph Davis' choice, the Obelisk on the Diamond of Long's Peak. Edit- A friendly fistfight at altitude. Kennan Harvey photo.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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If you are an offwidth climber ["legit" free or "cheat" aid like me!] you oughta get yourself a few Valley Giant cams. We used these things on Excalibur [above], Bermuda Dunes, Son of Heart, and a few other places here and there.
Tom makes these things in 9" and 12" sizes, and they are the bomb. He's tested them to failure at over 5000 lbs, much stronger than any commercially made cam.
Purists will say I'm cheating. They're right. Royal Robbins would also tell you it's cheating to bring #4 Camalots on Tis-Sa-Ac, and he's right too! We seem to use the 9-inchers a lot more often than the 12's.
Ask Brutus of Wyde - he bought a bunch and loves 'em.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Uhhhh, this is a freeclimbing thread Pete not the tinkertoy parade.
A classic Doug Robinson shot of Pratt on North Sixshooter from Ascent 1970. He don't need no stinkin' pro.
Mike Farrell in Pratt's Crack near Bishop. Galen Rowell photo from Ascent 1973.
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ec
climber
ca
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'Can't find the slides of this O/W on Hetch Hetchy Dome, YNP...one of the most horrendous "5.9" O/W around. On the FA Galen said something to the effect that he "was like a dog chasing a cat up a drainpipe," High and Wild. Sh#t I thought it was a solid 5.9d sandbag, however, a beautiful, smooth polished 4" monster. Pitch 5.
Upper Tehipite Dome, KCNP:
'S' Crack, The Needles, ..."a 5.9+ doublewaahsqueezechimney. One of those chimneys where you can't move your head and falling isn't the problem, suffocation is..." Todd Vogel:
The 'Go Big or Go Home' pitch 5.10 on Angel Wings, SNP:
the best part was passing a pile of loose rocks to get to the belay ledge...
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gumbyclimber
climber
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Alright kids, here you go. This one's for afficianados only....
"5.11+"
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Looks wild and wide, gumby.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Fantastic stuff, ol' hardman photos and all... BTW, what the heck is that "5.11+"?
Clint, primo site--who did that Taped Gloves page, most excellent. Bonus Needles info!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Gumby, that is a sick looking OW, I'm getting pumped just looking at those pics. Where is it?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Kelly,
The material on monsteroffwidth.com (including the tape gloves page) is all by Alexander Cooper.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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ec,
> 'Can't find the slides of this O/W on Hetch Hetchy Dome
I'm not sure if this helps, but on your old site the URL was:
http://home.earthlink.net/~ecjoe/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/hh5.jpg
I don't seem to have saved a copy.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice Bombay Gumby- just one crotch bulge away from airtime! Very cool shot. Is the route your FA? I really like the gear dragline in the first pic too.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Hey Steve,
I'm pretty sure that Obelisk pic was taken by Kenan, it's not him climbing. Seem to remember a BD ad for camalots from way back that used that pic, named the climber and gave photo credit to KH.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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F*#king awesome, gumby!
I'm doing "Pratt's Crack" this weekend, Steve. Nice pic. Pics of that thing are hard to come by. Also planning on doing "Sheila", around the corner. Probably before Pratt's. Funny - a .10a as a warm-up, prior to the .9 OW!
good to see you here, E.C.
Great thread, Russ!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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A big climbing regret was not doing "Pratt's Crack" while I was in Bishop. My partner and I went and did "Dog Dead, Chick Killed It" over at Little Egypt instead. Russ's site is nice to pin-point key wides for trippin' to (and on).
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ec
climber
ca
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Clint,
I have misplaced the digital file for that HH OW .jpg since I changed web servers and have to scrap for the original to rescan it. I will find it...the 'new' site is: vertical20.com
If you'd like and OW challenge, it would be worth your while to climb the first five pitches of the route to just do Pitch 5. It really is a test piece.
 ec
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ec
climber
ca
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Nefarius, Pratt's is classic! Enjoy!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Pratt's Crack is classic, and not too bad to lead either. I remember nothing smaller than a #4.5 old Camelot... maybe I took the green and blue BigBro, a #5 old Camelot and a bunch of slings to tie off the chockstones.
I suspect that Pratt only tied off the chockstones.
Just remember heal-toe! And have fun, it is a killer pitch!!
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ec
climber
ca
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Ed,
You cheat! We had stoppers, slung chockstones and those hex thangs less than 4"!- ec
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