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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2007 - 12:45pm PT
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Bill, mystery solved!
No way man, if this thing came from a clutch of yours then you should figure out where it ends up. I would never sell it and am not particularly attached to things. I do funnel a lot of gear to the Nut Museum from ebay for Stephane just for that reason, I don't want it - but, be it Stephane Pennequin, Ken Yager, Marty Karabin, or Gary Storrick - someone needs to preserve our heritage and legacy relative to gear.
These are the main folks doing that work. Some day I'd love to see their collections combined in a couple of permanent homes - one in the US and one in the EU. Hopefully someone is doing the same thing in Russia.
So Bill, if this thing looks familiar then you take it back and either keep it or ship it to Ken yourself; and Ken would be a better choice than Stephane as he isn't into pins and this beauty definitely has a Valley pedigree.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 21, 2007 - 12:48pm PT
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Bravo.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Oct 21, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
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So, how old are these Dolt pins? After seeing this post I realized I had one sitting on my porch. Always thought it was an artistically refined pin.
There's a Dolt logo on one side and a "D" on the other
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2007 - 01:39pm PT
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No 'D' on the other side of this one that I can discern. And yeah, what is the history on these things - surely one of you guys must know...?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2007 - 02:12pm PT
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Definitely no markings of any kind on that side of Bill's pin.
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 21, 2007 - 03:39pm PT
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Those long Dolt pins shown were sold as "Dolt Nutcrackers," a nut tool... I had one, until someone ripped it off. Circa 1973??
ec
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Gene
climber
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Oct 21, 2007 - 04:21pm PT
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My few ancient Dolt nuts are now with Ken. Support your local historical society.
GM
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couchmaster
climber
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Oct 21, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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Cool Joseph! I e-mailed Ken when I saw your note and just heard back. It's going to the Yosemite Museum to be put with some other Dolt stuff.
He asked for a short history which is easy. If any names get displayed with the pin like "donated by" I want it to say Donated by Joseph Healy and Bill Coe (or reversed).
Good catch on your part seeing the name !
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Oct 21, 2007 - 11:10pm PT
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So I'm unclear. Is this pin "historical" or just the Dolt nuts? How old are these and what would the significance be? For educational purposes, please refresh me on who Mr. Dolt was. I've heard his name forever but cannot recall his story.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 21, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
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He made some nice pins, but nobody could afford them.
That long dong ass pin in the photos was basically worthless.
Too long .....
So most ended up as nut tools. I hate nut tools. I just throw the nut in and hope it stays there.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 21, 2007 - 11:26pm PT
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For that time there is no doubt that he made the best quality pitons and had a lot of pride in his workmanship,he is the only one that polished his pitons, no laughs, (I understand where your mind is going). His are distinctive, because of the elongated eye. His nuts were exploratory (again the laughs). I am sure, if he was alive today that we would see his name on a lot of gear and he would be considered a genius.
Ken
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Oct 21, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
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Thanks. "For his time" which was when? Should I just throw this thing back in my box of pins that never get used?
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 21, 2007 - 11:52pm PT
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Pound it in the Captain somewhere at the base.
Some n00b or some hard ass will see you and flame you there.
Watch the mental sparks fly .......
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 22, 2007 - 12:00am PT
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Dolt was Bill Feuerer, who was quite involved in the first ascent of the Nose of El Capitan, but didn't make the final ascent.
You could check with Ken and see if he needs one for the museum. I believe they're considered classics.
Dale once told me they worked quite well on the groove pitch of the Shield. You had to pre-tie them off, but they were long enough that the tip placed quite well.
Edit: It may have been Chouinard long dongs he was talking about.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 22, 2007 - 12:03am PT
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Dale told you that?
I don't remember us having any long Dolt pins on that ascent.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 22, 2007 - 12:06am PT
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Jerry, I think he got serious about equipment making during the first ascent of the Nose. And got continually more so until his death. I think he made the elongated eye version after his experience on the Nose (might help with multiple uses}. My observation and would be glad to hear others.
Ken
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Oct 22, 2007 - 12:41pm PT
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Ken, I remember looking through one of the Dolt binders at a shop
in maybe 71 or 72.
Had lots of different hooks (well maybe 3 or 4), the Cobra
Skyhook. No telling if they were any better shape than what was
available at the time, but a beautiful curve and all. I think
they were in the shape of an "S" as opposed to the Chouinard
Cliffhanger which was more of a "C"
That binder also had the Dolt Blue Boot.
I wonder if it was the same as a Gaulie?
When I bought my nut tool, the story was that someone had got
hold of his long-dong style pins and forged them out a little
longer, then ground the notch into the end. I thought it was just
after his death.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 22, 2007 - 02:52pm PT
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Check this eccentric ad from an old Summit mag. This ad shows the polished finished product. Way out there!
And my trusty nut scratcher, tip rounded from decades of micronut excavation.
Only Clog Kingpins had an eye shape similar to the Dolt pitons.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 22, 2007 - 03:05pm PT
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A Dolt Cobra. This one belonged to Royal.
Ken
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