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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 15, 2007 - 01:12am PT
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Great TR Zander, thanks for posting it...
...and great that you and Bob got in such a wonderful climb in a most remarkable landscape.
Today was the opening day of "wide cragging" in the Valley for the old guys... lots of fun with Mr. Smooth in wiseman mode:
"make sure to get fully rested on your rests"
"if you have to puke, don't puke on your footholds"
he did a great job on Chingando... and we took spyork on a cruise up Remnant Right while scoping Left for later in the season... that will be full value. As well as Reed's Left.
It's going to be fun!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2007 - 09:55am PT
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Ron,
Thanks for your story. I didn't know any of the history of the place just how beautiful it is. Anybody got pictures?
Ed,
Glad you guys had a good time. I found some Metolious hangers and oval screw links on sale so I'm about ready to do the bolt replacement on Secret Storm. See you soon.
Zander
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Floridaputz
Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:03am PT
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Nice trip report, the best I've seen. These photo's are from a climb of zoro in aug 1982. You can climb the east Face of O'niel Butte on the way down the Kiabab.
We spent the night at Phantom Ranch, then another night at the base.
after the climb
My rope got stuck on the rap through the red wall on the way back. I had to solo back up and rap again. we had no water left and we in a "race" to get to phantom creek.
Thanks for the memories
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:14am PT
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Great TR Zander! Gotta put that climb on my"List".
Gary
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:17am PT
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Holy approaches....
Great TR
Prod.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Oct 15, 2007 - 12:56pm PT
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thanks for the TR, you sure do like to suffer
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
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Hi Floridaputz,
Nice pics. We had wanted to try O'Neill Butte but the weather didn't cooperate. Looks cool.
Zander
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girasol
Trad climber
Colorado Springs, CO
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:34pm PT
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Wow, dem's some nice pics! Thanks for sharing, Zander!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:49pm PT
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Really fantastic.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Oct 15, 2007 - 09:39pm PT
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Bump for adventure choss!
I gotta go visit the flag gang one a these days...that looks so cool. Good job gettin er done there Zander!
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Handsandwich
climber
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Nov 12, 2007 - 07:51pm PT
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Hey Zander,
Awesome TR! Congrats on a job well done ... that trip is a beast! I was in the area to climb Brahma and found a piece of gear at the base of the Redwall chimney and thought it might belong to you. If you can describe it, I suppose I could return it, and not too begrudgingly (hey, it's a nice piece ... been lookin' for one of those).
Justin
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 12, 2007 - 09:18pm PT
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Hey Floridaguy, what route did you do?
Is that the south face?
When we did Zoro, we bivied in the wash below the Redwall. The next morning, we got up, boogied up the Redwall and then up to Zoro to climb. Was an excellent adventure.
I take it the sandstone wasn't too wet after the rain?
Sometime after we climbed the route, the Needles Eye took the dive into the void. Thinking back when I was leading that pitch and had one boot on the main wall and one stemming off the edge of the Eye gives me the willies.
Long shot of Zoro:
Approach map I did with a little help from Google Earth:
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Nov 12, 2007 - 10:01pm PT
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Thanks, nice TR!! Appreciate the effort.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Nov 12, 2007 - 10:50pm PT
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Bump for the awesome trip report! I didnt see this when it came by the first time. The good stuff sinks off the first page too soon!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2007 - 11:09pm PT
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Hey Handsandwich,
I actually didn't loose any gear on this trip. (unlike some others where I've sacrificed or lost a quarter of my rack). Besides it's finders keepers. I hope it's good stuff. How was Brahma? I've got to go back for that rascal. I'd like to explore Diva too. There is reputed to be a hidden spring there, which would change everything.
Steelmnky,
Nice google shot. Bivying in the wash would have been great for us had we known. The wash had many big pools from the last rain. It would have saved us many hours. Of course it would have added many hours to the trip out so I'm cool with what we did.
Take care y'all.
Zander
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Nov 12, 2007 - 11:16pm PT
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Steelmonk, Coolshii, any chance you could do one of those overhead overviews for the route from the north rim?
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2007 - 11:24pm PT
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Since this thread has re-surfaced I'll add a few photos. Bob bought a throwaway
camera just as we headed in. I finally figured out how to load the pics onto my computer.
Here's a pic of me about to step around into the bombay chimney on P5.
Here is the first rappel off the top.
Anybody else have a few more pics?
Zander
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Nov 12, 2007 - 11:58pm PT
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Wonderful TR Zander, and great stories, Ron.
-JelloAsterTemple
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Handsandwich
climber
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Nov 13, 2007 - 01:15am PT
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Hey Zander,
Just tryin' to do the "right thing" for some canyon karma (really need it sometimes). Brahma was a blast. The Zoro/Brahma saddle is one of my favorite spots on earth. Probably try to hit Cheops/Isis on one of the next trips, though Diva looks fun. I'd really love to get on Angel's Gate! I'll try to add some shots when I have time and figure out how.
J
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 13, 2007 - 08:33am PT
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Hoofing up Sumner Wash to the Redwall...
First pitch...
Chimney, third pitch...
Fifth pitch...
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