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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So, umm Pete, getting any like ideas or anything?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Um, yeah, Anders, actually....
...there's, like, this hottie blonde cooking chicken breasts in the kitchen, eh?
Voice of Beevis from 'Beevis and Butthead':
"Heh heh, I said 'breast' - heh heh...."
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Where's Hansy when you need him? I know, I know, in Italy. That's what, 9 hours ahead or so? Maybe it's a little early in the morning even for him! So we need Hans to tell us if the LEGIT time is :30 or :50.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Looking with google, many sites in 2002 said :55 . Some say :30 , some :50 . It's hard to tell what is independent, since many are probably just quoting from one of Hans' current pages. Hah, one even says 2:44.55 - I'm sure that one is a typo! Another says 2:54 ....
Here is an article by Hans from 9/2002 which said :55 :
http://www.camp4.com/news/index.php?newsid=392
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Nose Record Completely Smashed!
by Hans Florine
September 30, 2002
Camp4 - Climbing News Archive
Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama race up the Nose on El Capitain in 2 hours, 48 minutes, and 55 seconds!
It was inevitable that the Nose record would be broken, but could anyone conceive that an already unbelievable time of 3:24:04 (O'Neill/Potter) would be completely smashed. Well, on September 29, Yuji and I did it.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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All right, all right, maybe they broke the record, but it's pretty darn close.
Cast your votes for how much faster they are next time!
Hmmmmm, what's a dropped aider worth? Ten minutes? Fifteen? How much faster can they go? We're sure to find out! Alex and Thomas continued to beat their speed record on Zodiac, so we can expect the same this time, too.
Now we know that Hans is champing at the bit, but what about Yuji? I hear he's been into the Asahis a bit much lately....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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seconds hand? hasn't the new digital watch technology made it to Canada yet?
It is rather strange that we're worrying about timing a climb up the Nose of El Cap to the second. Perhaps it's time to step back and get a little perspective, an extremely well trained team of climbers can fly up the route in a little less than 3 hours. That's amazing.
The fact that two of the best climbers of this time achieved a time close to the Hans&Yuji ascent makes the H&Y ascent all the more amazing. But do we hope that the Valley climbs turn into conjested highways with different lanes: slow lane for multi-day ascents, middle lane for IAD (In-A-Day) ascents and a fast lane for speed ascents. Sure would infringe on my wilderness experience. Will speed ascenders have to wear their headlamps for improved visibility of the other teams? Turnouts? ("Slower traffic should use the turnouts").
Can an other hour be shaved off that time? I guess it keeps it all interesting.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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C'mon, Ed - Canada's a modern place. We love disco music, and my sister just got indoor plumbing!
It really does tell you just how far ahead Hans and Yuji's speed ascent was, if it has taken the Hubers this long, and this much training, merely to approximately tie it.
And zey vill nevah be satisfied vith zat.
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Matt M
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA (Temp in San Antonio for Yr)
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I've been doing some enduro work on a TreadWall recently and it puts this record in a whole new light. If you figure the feet/min these guys are averaging and try to do that yourself - you'll realize the MOST impressive thing of all is the CARDIO output they're laying down. I mean, it's gotta be up there with Olympic Level Cross Country Skiers (arguably the most fit athletes around).
I used to live a few blocks down from Hans and helped him cut so video clips Yugi's pals had shot from their record attempt. Hans was actually seeing some of it for the first time. There was one shot in the upper pitches where Yugi pulls over this bulge and keeps on going (no gear) for a WAYS. Hands basically says "holy sh_t! I didn't know he went that far without gear!" It really put the whole thing into a new light on how cutting edge these guys (and the Hubers now) were.
It's not for everyone but going fast is damn fun some times.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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(in reference to ptpp's comments, matt posted while i was typing)
yeah, cuz hansy's got no experience on that route. hubers were busy playing on zodiac the last time everyone got reved up about speed in the valley.
proud ascents all, but i don't think the last record was ahead of it's time. it changed hands, what, 3 times that summer? i think what appeared to be bad blood from the outside is what cooled the scene for a few years. that and the fact that the nose isn't exactly the easiest route to play on.
thanks for the report ECP, making one more day at the desk bareable.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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"middle lane for IAD (In-A-Day) ascents ... "
I was a little surprised at the # of NIAD ascents on a recent trip. 5-10 years ago, you'd see maybe 1 a week or somesuch. Seemed every day on my trip there were at least 2 teams up there around sunset working near the top and every 3rd party I'd talk to in the Meadows was planning an ascent. Kinda nuts now.
JLP
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Trash,
Good points. What is really refreshing about the current scene is there is no competitive bitterness. The "competition" [Hans] is rooting for Alex and Thomas the hardest!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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true about hans, and i think he was last time too.
all the numbers aren't quite my thing, but the guy does appear to be a class act by all accounts.
evolution is a beautiful thing.
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T2's Wife
Trad climber
Cardiff
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Tom thanks for the update. You are making this trip easier for me.
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