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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Of course they will do it again.
And again, and again, and again.
Just like they did on Zodiac, faster and faster.
I have never heard of any "adjustment" that BCD suggests. Please tell us more, BCD. [It will be a moot point soon, though]
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Jacqueline Florine
Trad climber
CA
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This evening I checked out this thread excited to hear of the Huber Brothers and their record breaking time! I expected to hear about these superb athletes going all out and having a couple of hours of great climbing! Why are there posts maligning the veracity of Hans and Yugi's record and slandering my husband's character? It serves no positive purpose and is a poor reflection on our community.
In an effort to illuminate, I include an explanation for the following:
BCD says, 'At the slideshow, Hans explained that they employed a sort of “Olympic Rule” which allowed them to deduct a set amount of time for each party they had to pass along the way. Their actual time was nowhere near 2:48.'
Hans was kidding. You just didn't listen to the whole story. BCD, you missed the joke and have publicly embarrassed yourself! : o
Nefarious says, 'I guess one can't help but point out the contradictions and sneaky-pete type of behavior surrounding Hans time. It seems pretty suspicious.'
Hans takes great pains to accurately report all the El Cap records he knows of. Including his own.
Nefarious continues, 'I think most people also are pretty aware that Hans is far more into protecting his image. Some might say fairly vain. You don't get a name like Hollywood Hans for nothing, ya know!'
Hans is a competitor who enjoys the game and is very active in assisting other climbers to do their best. Be careful of talking about things and people you obviously know nothing about.
By the way, Hans did not get the moniker "Hollywood" for being vain or image conscious. That is a history lesson for another day. : )
I want to give a great big American congrats to the Huber Brothers!
Great climbing on a great route! You guys are ROCKSTARS!!!
Jacqueline
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
Liberal, KS
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What?...I just Googled Hans Florine....and you know what? He's AMERICAN!!....yeah that's right, even with a name like that! Well....at least he tried. If he was German like I assumed he was...he'd DEFINITELY have stood some kind of chance.
I'm sure someone has probably already mentioned this...but wouldn't it be cool if Hans Soloed?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Hey Jaqueline,
Please tell Hans we-all give him a big "hi" in Italia, and await his speed record on the Hornli Ridge ... assuming the crumbling heap of choss hasn't fallen down yet.
Please don't take our good-natured ribbing for character assasination, cuz we all know Hans is Class Act. But you'd better tell him to send a postcard to Yuji, cuz they just [barely] broke the speed record [this week].
The times are too close to be considered anything other than a "tie". So give Thomas and Alex a few more tries to pull off some faster times, then you can sicc Hansy back on the place.
Now, c'mon - don't leave us hangin'! DO TELL - how did he get the Valley Nickname "Hollywood Hans"?! Inquiring minds need to know!
Cheers,
Pete
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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My experience with Hans concurs with his wife's defense. He loves the competition but is first to congratulate and wish the next guy well to beat his own record.
If Hans was 30, I'd bet on him to go get it back. At this point, Hans isn't competing against Hubers, he's fighting time on a bigger scale.
Peace
Karl
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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"Could of been off by that much...."
Why do I hear that in the Maxwell smart voice?
15sec... sometimes I take all day just to remember who I am...
and Jaqueline; Hans is cool in my book ( we campolindo boys gotta stick together) I sent in some time records to his site, a bunch of stuff that nobody really cares about, but was important to me, he was very supportive and enthusiastic, good on him!
One minor gripe I sent one about shasta, "Liz and Jay 13hrs, but still in love," he just posted the names and time.
cheers!
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Degaine
climber
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Wow, amazing climbing (and climbers) for sure.
But 15 seconds? Really? I know they're all out just having fun, and it's an objective to pursue, but I personally see no difference between 2:48 and +/- even 10 minutes.
Now the fact that in 2001 the record time was around 4hrs and now were at sub 3, that's impressive, but 15 seconds...I hope the climbing media will have something better to talk about.
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BCD
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Pete,
Sorry. My previous post was mistaken, sort of.
Correction:
The presentation I attended (where he explained his “rule”) was PRIOR to 2002. At that point he was claiming to hold the record with the second best time, but it wasn’t the referring to the 2:48 time.
Looking at his list of speed records here
http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm#98
I realize that is was the summer of 2001. He told us that Oneil and Potter had set the record at 3:59, but when he tried to break that record they came in at something like 4:02. Three minutes behind. So that was when he invented the rule, and deducted one minute for each party passed. This became irrelevant later that summer when the record was broken again. But, for a short amount of time that summer he was going around claiming the fastest time, despite the fact that it clearly wasn't!
So the 2:48 could have been legit. Who knows.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Excellent clarification, BCD - thanks.
But we still need to know where the "Hollywood" comes from!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Well, in Hans' defense, I'll just add that he has a remarkable sense of humor, and while he has a healthy ego, doesn't take himself too seriously. He's honest as they come and wouldn't have claimed the record unless he was absolutely sure. Passing is part of the game, and I'm sure his comments were indeed in jest. ("I'd have gotten away with it if it weren't for those meddling kids...")
I look forward to seeing what happens next in this story. Hopefully the skinny legged master will give the brawny brothers a run for their money. 15 seconds is splitting hairs, and at these speeds, like the difference between .14c and .14d in my mind. Either grade being impossible. So, Kudos to the brothers in their achievements. Perhaps they have worked out or refined some techniques that Hans, or other Americans (!?) can use to re-claim the record.
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Jacqueline Florine
Trad climber
CA
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Hey there Pete!
I will let Hansy tell the "Hollywood Hans" story.
It might cost you a pint though!
JTW (just the wife) Florine
P.S. BCD, I repeat, Hans was kidding. The Olympic rule was a joke!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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The only truly significant "time" record for El Cap was made near four decades ago;
twenty-seven and a half days.
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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No way Ron,
Your a little longer in the tooth than me, but the Nose in a day had to feel like an amazing feat in its day.
That ascent has stood the test of time, and is STILL quite a benchmark in ANY climber's career???
And YOU of all people has done enough aid climbing to understand the intricacies of a single push ascent via hard aid.
Many of the leads on El Cap were doorways to new places for me. My friend Flyn' Brian talks about all El Cap routes as a sort of "acid trip" experience.
Now in Brian and Ammon (Gerbie, Stanley, Bengston, Stowe, etc...) 's relative worlds speed up EVERY decision, by in my case at least, by a factor of maybe 10? STRONG WORK!!!
Now view the Nose in particular as a standard unit of work. This unit is really not changing too much via pinscaring anymore, maybe a few more fixed stoppers here and there, a booty cam, or a bomber bolt...but in general it is fixed unit.
This unit is crossing the ages for the truly elite and "olympic" caliber rock climbers to have at...
Now this feat is a marvel...so why don't we simply do that...marvel at all the players of today, yesterday, and tomorrow.
Viva da Schnoz!!!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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NIAD was not the giant leap that WOTEML was.
Henry had already done it in a day and a half.
Warren's brilliance was in the potential appliance to the greater ranges, and lets not forget that the previous record was his 12 day FA.
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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So is the WOEML in a day more inpressive than NIAD?
Brian and that blonde American Hans would have climbed that onsight in a day if it weren't for Beyer's RR impression.
How many ascents has the Wall of Early Morning Light had total? the Nose?
Ascents of he Nose in a day, WOEML in a day?
How many climbers world wide know what Nose is? the WOEML?
You are talking about quite possibly the grandest rockclimb on Earth...position, history, access, quality, elegance, handjams, and lore of the Nose push it into a class all of its own.
The only other route I can think to compare the Nose in terms of World classics are the NF of the Eiger, and Cerro Torre?
Come on Ron, I know you see what I am saying? Love to hear others perceived world classics...
But cryky mate this is a thread about the Huber bros charging the NOSE!!!!!
I disagree about 15 seconds being a tie...these guys care enough about this time thing at this point to be very careful. 15 seconds is a big gain on the old time. A time will come that there is less and less fat to be trimmed. As competition increases smaller and smaller intervals of time will be celebrated as "improvements".
Cheers
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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"If Hans was 30, I'd bet on him to go get it back. At this point, Hans isn't competing against Hubers, he's fighting time on a bigger scale."
The interweb tells me Thomas is in the 41ish-42ish range and my memory tells me Hans is in the 44-45ish range. 40's the new 30 on El Cap. I'm counting on this being true. :-)
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
North Face of El Cap
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You're forgetting of course that Germans don't age the same....I think the Hubers are only in their 20's or so in German years. I can't remember the exact conversion right off hand though.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Handjam,
I wasn't comparing routes. Where on earth did you get THAT from?
The question was regarding significant time records.
But congrats to the Huber-baum for a 15 second bump.
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