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John Moosie
climber
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Superhero version,
I am not in any pictures because I have a gift which allows me to disappear when cameras are out. Crimpie is the only person to overcome this. But she didn't get my picture this time !
Reality,
I sort of had a screwy week and wasn't able to participate as much as I would have liked to. I did get to meet Crowley, Ed, Nature, Mighty Hiker, Ken, and Andy briefly. Also said hello to Gasoline after the Huber brothers movie but was so blazed by the movie that I was barely conversant. Hope I didn't offend you gasoline. :-)
I enjoyed seeing the Huber brothers movie, especially the speed climbing. The human interest stuff was cool although perhaps a bit long. Karl commented to me that he would have liked to see how they did each pitch on the nose as he was so familiar with it and wanted to see how they did it. Me too....
One of the funny stories that came out of their interview with Timmy O'neil was a story about passing a party on El Cap. They came apon a party ( don't know which route, probably the nose but they did practice on many routes) they asked permission to pass. They said they were speed climbing. They were recognized and were gladly given permission to pass. They did and finished the climb. A few days later they were back to redo the route and looked up and noticed that the party they had passed a few days earlier was nearing the top. They challenged themselves to pass them before they reached the top. They did. Good grief.
The whole notion of that just boggles my mind. Too cool.
The closest I have come to a similar experience was when I use to run trails. My most enjoyable days were running to the top of Buena vista peak from Wawona. A roundtrip of 25 miles. On the way I would pass people who were heading there with backpacks. Then on the way back I would see them again, already having been where they were heading. That is definitely not the same as what the Huber brothers do on the nose, but it is the closest I can come. haha... Jeebus those guys are fast.
Thanks Ken for putting together the facelift. That is a huge amount of work and greatly appreciated. Hip Hip Hooray !!! I think it goes a long way toward cleaning up Yosemite and it gives a huge boost to climber/ranger relations. I will participate more next year.
Thanks again.
John
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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First of all let me tell you that Supertacos are the COOLEST people I have met in a long time.
And Chicken Skinner deserves as much thanks as you can muster for a fantastic week of picking up poop.
As for Nature - well - the guy is a crazy awesome sushi master and it was great being able to help him cut and roll all week.
Charming Dawn, Nellie the Bear Dog and I rolled into Fort Supertaco on Tuesday to get a jump on that night's Sushifest. Met Paganmonkeyboy who welcomed us with a gallon of sake to help loosen up the sous chefs (myself and Brutus of Wyde with Nurse Ratchet and Charming Dawn working the rice and cleanup stations.
Things were quiet until 5:00 or so when someone told the Ethiopian refugee camp that a bag of rice had been dropped at Yellowpine - cause we went from 6 or 7 people to 50 or 60 inside of thirty minutes.
The rest of that night was a blur of rice, rolls, sharp knives and some amazing fish and veggies to play with. Nature, Brutus and I rolled sushi until after midnight before the crowd finally got too buzzed to eat.
Oh yeah - Ken...if your son is bugging you to let him make sushi every night - it's my fault. After catching him snaking surf clam nigiri off my station faster than I could make it - I told him no more sushi unless he helped make some. A few moments with Nurse Ratchet for Sushi Rice 101 and then some hands on time with me for the Dummies Guide to Maki - young Guy rolled and helped feed the masses for over 3 hours - WAY TO GO GUY!
The rest of the night (at least until 300 am or so) was a blur of wine, beer, sake , bonfires and music. Doctor David slams a mean bongo line, Paganmonkeyboy knows too many songs and Andy (Nita's beau) does not need a microphone when he sings!
Public Service Announcement for any first timers to Sushifest - bring the following - bottomless pit of a stomach to hold massive amounts of sushi goodness, cast iron liver for massive amounts of adult beverages and the ability to go 5 days with no sleep!
Wednesday morning broke to the sweet sounds of the garbage truck dumping the evidence of the previous nights debauchery. Yeah man - banging dumpsters and throbbing heads - we're ready to pick up poop.
The trash patrol was pretty straight forward everyday - get a bag, some orange picker-upper thingies and head for the hills.
Like Nita said earlier - lot of cig butts, toilet paper (does EVERYONE poop at the base of Royal Arches?), sippy straw wrappers and just the little triangular corners of candy bags...never the whole bag, just the teeny shiny corner piece - go figure.
The locals were interested tho - so that was cool -
A few bags of crap dumped at the Facelift station, a quick poached shower at Curry and down to the Lodge for the Royal Robbins and Tom Frost show - good vibes from the crowd and even scored Royal's autograph on my old copy of Advanced Rockcraft!
Wednesday night was quiet as Nature's Flagstaff Posse had slept off their sake and tequila until 200 that afternoon. Seems like we all needed a break that night. Rumor had it that someone we know was spewing "rainbow rolls" behind a shed - but I ain't saying who.
More trash picked up on Thursday - then back to Fort Supertaco for Suhsi Night Number 2. To get a jump on the rolls - Nature and a few of us hung back at camp while the rest of the gang went to the Chris Sharma Karma Traveling Circus.
Thought I might miss seeing Sharma until I heard from the peeps that it was like watching a mutant gecko at work - wayyy above mortal persons. Hard to get motivated without those alien genes.
Much less of a feeding frenzy - but still had my hands cramping from another round of 50 to 60 maki rolls.
Since everyone had recharged from Tuesday nights alcoholfest - we were ready to represent the climber community by keeping the rage alive until 300 in the morning again.
Friday - more garbage and more tourons. Got asked if we were working off a DUI by a couple of people and heard that one yuppie prick caught red-handed tossing some garbage at a turnout tried to explain his actions by saying that his Lexus was too expensive to have trash inside!!!! I say kick the fuc$ers door and say "now it's dented - you can put trash inside!"
Friday nights show was Timmy O'Neill live and in person followed by the Huber Mutants movie. If you have never seen Timmy Live - DO IT - major funny guy...but don't talk to him when he's coming on.
As for the Huber movie "To The Limit" - great action shots of some serious speed jumaring - could have done without the angst fest in Patagonia tho.
But - they were there in person for the guys and gals to drool over. I won't say who, but one female member of the tribe managed to get a serious grope of Thomas and another REALLY liked the idea that Alex was single.
Anyway - back to camp for some Vino de Fattrad and some birthday cake for Crimpie. I've got to say that I try to eat smart and all of that - but there is something to be said for a good mouthful of white flour and processed sugar topped with ample amounts of chocolate frosting at one in the morning!
By Saturday the other groups from Wells Fargo and the Yos Fund had rolled into their camps - funny how they seemed to keep backing further away as the day wore on - wonder why?
Someone mentioned that it was a version of Clash of Civilizations - the STer's on one side with our motley assortments of gear and cars - and across the divide - yups driving BMW SUVs and REI campkits. Ahh screwem - they're bankers.
We did spot Bear 46 - actually, more like bears 44 through 50 as 5 different ones were spotted circling the camp. One ranger told us that urine keeps them back - between Nellie the Bear Dog and the Supertacoans - we figured there was enough pee to chase them out of the Valley entirely.
Saturday night brought another show - this time from Tommy Caldwell - kinda lowkey so most either skipped the show or left early to help Nature finish off the last of the fish for Sushifest Night #3.
Sunday was it - the end of trash detail was upon us. Something like 2000 people had volunteered during the week and over 40000 pounds of crap had been picked up - GREAT JOB BY EVERYONE!
Low key start - Three M Tim served up pancakes and bacon while Lord Anders shook the crowd down for money for YCA followed by some bouldering by Charming Dawn and I and some climbing by some of the others. Ken's Thank You Party started that evening - real nice vibe - good food from the Lodge, lots of swag at the raffle, neat little climber kids jetting around and some nice scenics to set off the mood.
All in all - a great time - if you have never gone to a Sushifest or helped clean up the Valley - DO IT! You will meet great people, make new friends and have the time of your lives!
Ricky D and Charming Dawn
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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" " ...The word is out in the Valley and more people come by.. I didn't get to meet these folks (Rick D is at the far right)..."
That looks like Chelsea with the pointy hat..."
and that's elise in the middle..."
Not elise, but Isabel. She was climbing with Megan M, and I was there (red hat) with Chelsea.
Hello to all I didn't meet.
j
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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thanks Joe, things were happening all around and I missed the chance to talk with you that night...
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Hey all - what a great time. I just got back here. Big storm going on that meant a really bumpy landing. Made the flight attendant cry! No joke. Happy to be here. Horror show at home as it seems my pet sitter failed to come. At all. Everyone is alive. I hope it stays that way. I'm not happy about this.
I'll have plenty of photos to post. Some hanging out, some climbing. Some of a bad bad bear (#47 - for real) who came through yesterday and was so bad the ranger instructed me to sleep in the truck. NO PROBLEM!
Those of you who missed the dance really missed a fantastic time! Got some excellent dancing in with Leo, Chicken Skinner, and some x-rated dancing in with Timmy O. Schweet!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Good job done by all! Bravo!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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hahaha Mr. Crowley! I was in an SUV and slept in it too! Great meeting you. I really had the best b'day ever. Thanks for the card and the cake and the wine and an unforgettable day on the wall Ed. the dancing was phenom! Everyone got half naked and had a blast. That alone will get me back there next year...
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Well, it was an exhausting "holiday", but lots of fun, and many good and useful things got done. I'm going to be pretty busy the next while, and may not get around to posting photos. But here's a subjective report, from my perspective - many many "honourable mentions" could be added. Like a Cecil B. de Mille movie - a cast of thousands of very helpful people. I don't know exactly what they all did when, but everybody sure worked hard.
I left Vancouver early in the evening of Thursday (20th), and returned this afternoon (2nd), to a cat who was very happy to see me, and who is curled up in my lap and purring to prove it.
20th - Hightailed it down I-5, briefly bivouaced in southern Oregon.
21st - Continued, arrived Merced 4 PM, moments before the Amtrak appeared with the intrepid transiter, jstan. Awful traffic in Stockton area - observed relativity as it applies to passing trucks. Pleasant drive to Valley.
22nd - Arose late. Meandered over to the Visitor's Centre, got the rangers at the 'wilderness centre' to call Ken for us, and arranged to meet him at his house. A rangerette had a name tag that said "Shockley", so I asked if she was related to the famous climber. She was - great niece thereof. (He also won a Nobel Prize.) They didn't know their elevation, which was amusing. Somewhere here it started pouring rain, and we met Khanom, aka Eric #1, aka Eric from Canada. We went to El Portal. Ken and family (Cherie, Guy - 9, Ruby - 3) have a cottage there. They're in the middle of doubling its size, which combined with the proximity of the FaceLift may explain the absence of all but Ken. (They came home for FaceLift.) He gave us a tour of house, renovations, and museum, then we put together one of the big tents, and otherwise got organized. Then we sat around telling stories, and eventually Ken made us a roast ("tri tip") and chips, and we had some beer. A lovely evening. It deluged at times, and we wondered how Jesse's wedding was going.
23rd - Day off. I walked over to Yellow Pine and posted a directional sign, checked out the scene, said hello to the ravens in the recently burned off meadows. And some other things that I forget now. MisterE (aka Eric #2, aka Eric W) arrived, and I was delighted to learn that he was the cute child pictured in Glen Denny's book.
24th - Several trips to Ken's, to load up with all sorts of things and get them to the rescue cache, Jesse McGahey's office, and such. Errands. Ken got called by ABC news, who wanted to send a crew to cover the event. Yippie! For a day somewhere here my stomach was very unhappy (something I ate, I suppose), plus my back wasn't very happy about the FaceLift generally. (Too much driving?) Moan.
25th - More trips back and forth, including a lot of wood left over from Ken's renovations, which made for nice fires at Yellow Pines. (Cool mornings.) Late in the afternoon, we put up the awnings (marquees? pavilions?) in front of the Visitor Centre. Many others had shown up at Yellow Pine by early afternon. Off to sushifest, put on by Doug, Brutus, Nurse Ratchet, Guy, and others. Thanks! Nothing like bait and switch tactics. About 50 were there, including John Dill and ranger Jesse and his new wife, Meghan. (They're off for 11 weeks honeymoon in Africa late this year.) jstan found some self-igniting charcoal, from which PitonRon could have learned little - incendiary! To bed early. (jstan and I were in Camp 4, so didn't make it back to YP until the last morning.)
26th - Up at 6, for the first day of FaceLift proper. Off to the Visitor Centre, help get all supplies and furniture over from the cache, and set up. (Daily ritual - back and forth each day.) Then signing people in, getting them organized and out. There were a variety of key helpers, such as George, Ken, Katie, the NPS people, and others, who were there most days keeping a semblance of order. The big project of the day was retrieval of a 1951 Nash Rambler off Highway 41. I stayed at or near the booth most of the first four days, partly because I sometimes seemed useful there, and also so as not to aggravate the back. Evening was the Sentinel film, all the better in that it was the first time John Stannard and Royal Robbins, two of the key proponents of sustainable/clean climbing, met in person, together with Tom Frost. (Picture later.) Also, MisterE (aka Eric Wolfe) met Royal and Tom again after many years.
27th - More of the same. ABC news here and there, with many Kodak moments for their delectation. (We prayed that there not be any dramatic rescue to distract them.) I did some gentle garbage picking up around the Visitor Centre, to stay in practice. Evening program was a film about Chris Sharma. Chris McNamara was there, and I introduced myself - then asked if he would volunteer to carry AV equipment for Ed. Which he did.
28th - Some of the rescue team, Eric #1, Jesse, and others went up to the south side of Half Dome, and retrieved and bundled a lot of stuff, that was then flown out. jstan and team continued their focus on highway 120 - they were very focused, and found amazing piles of stuff. The evening was the first show at the Visitor Centre, and I helped at the door. Crimpie, Ed Hartouni and John Moosie did most of the work. The crowd got a little unruly when the show was half an hour late, and some needed to be "encouraged" to make a donation. The show was Timmy O'Neill, followed by the Hubers - it was packed, and I stayed outside with the cash box, which I was happy to pass on to Ken. One of our site mates in Camp 4, who I think showed up on Friday, was from the delightfully named foothills town of Twain Harte.
29th - The biggest day, non-stop busy at the Visitor Centre. The rangers had a bear awareness display, including a trap. I tried to persuade them that if the superintendent came by, they were supposed to "arrest" him and stick him in it, so his friends could bail him out - a "jail and bail" fundraiser. No dice - he was away. Huge piles of garbage kept arriving. Most of the mass was post-industrial stuff, most of the quantity was post-tourist. And the job of sorting the latter was pretty gross at times, though much recycling was found. Another evening party at the Visitor Centre - this time we were all prepared, with signs and everything. Tommy Caldwell, followed by the Hubers. Another sell out, more loot in the back of Ken's car. Ken in fact skedaddled for the El Portal Oktoberfest dance, of which he is a director.
30th - A short day, ending at 3 PM. Many SuperTopians met at YP for a pancake breakfast, organized and cooked by Tim. It raised a bit of money for the YCA, and was a chance for those who couldn't make it for one or other of the sushi nights to meet. Great fun! (We all have ideas for an enlarged SuperTopo presence at next year's FaceLift.) We also got to see how well bacon grease burns in a fire. No shortage of mini-explosions. In the afternoon, I picked up some stuff, mostly around the Camp 4 parking lot and the old gas station. Right at the end I found a rusty pipe - four or five metres long, perhaps 20 kg. Too big for my car, the ranger didn't have a truck, and I didn't think they'd let me on the shuttle bus with it. So I carried it back to the Visitor Centre, and got in after closing time. It wasn't that bad, except for evading all the tourists. And the FaceLift ended with a huge party at the Visitor Centre - food from DNC, beer, wine, band, draw prizes, tribute to Ken, and some short speeches.
1st - Coffee with jstan, a visit with Werner, then started home. Raining from Portland north. Autumn is really here.
Thanks to everyone for all the help - a real team effort. And especial thanks to Ken for the idea and the enormous work he puts into organizing the FaceLift, and the museum. Believe it or not, on Monday morning he was at a meeting to discuss plans for the museum.
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paganmonkeyboy
Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
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Thank you Joe, and my most humble apologies to Isabel for getting your name wrong.
My camera was dying after taking so many pics of the park coming in from the east side, but here's some of the good ones...
snow in mammoth on the way in...
setting up the first day, long before it got too busy
nature finds a pair of safety glasses at bridal veil falls to protect his eyes from the dr's cig smoke (did he tell you he misses his girlfriend ? ;-) )...
pensylenvy grabs some scenery at the base of the leaning tower...
nature climbs 11d (?) behind the chapel on tr...he climbs up...
but cleans sideways...
need to mess with this one - misterE, PE, the dr, Mcubed, and me down by the river...
after that the camera kept saying the battery was dead, but i got one more on the way home...
it was an honor and a pleasure meeting you all. that was one amazing week being there. i do think a big part of climbing is the people you are lucky enough to meet. thanks ;-)
-tom
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 10, 2007 - 03:01pm PT
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I am managing my web account and moved some images around, now the links are broken to this thread... and I cannot edit my posted TR...
sorry about that... how does the ST site management going to deal with that sort of thing?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2008 - 02:14pm PT
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Bump...because another Facelift approaches and this thread not only Kicks Ass, but is a who's who from ST.
Names corrected...thanks Nita!
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nita
climber
chica from chico, I don't claim to be a daisy
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Jun 29, 2008 - 02:54pm PT
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Hey, anybody in touch with Pancake Tim?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jun 29, 2008 - 09:09pm PT
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At Yellow Pine: Will trade Pacifico and lime for beta on showers and electrical outlit...if desperate will throw in fresh eggs (for nature) and wine. (unlike rumored fatrads, this will not upset la stomach)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jun 29, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
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e-mail me Lynn and I can give you some ideas. Don't want to broadcast them.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jun 30, 2008 - 12:06am PT
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Wait a minute....
You guys use Ropes on CS-C?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder
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Jun 30, 2008 - 12:49am PT
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Rebump....Ya'll have a reputation.. If able I'll come help out....
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Jun 30, 2008 - 01:14am PT
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Capitan or Scully, It would be good to see you again. I hope you can make it. There has been some major changes going on.
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder
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Jun 30, 2008 - 01:17am PT
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Yeah, Ken It has been TOO damn long....I'll do my best;....I've been missing the High Stones.
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