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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 21, 2007 - 12:09am PT
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May 1988... though I remember going up there in the winter and trying to jam Reppy's Crack with Dachstein wool mittens on... it didn't work.
It is a wonderful crag...
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Sep 21, 2007 - 12:38am PT
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!arriba arriba onbelay! Salud from the west coast...
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Sep 21, 2007 - 12:57am PT
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Well now technically the start is that wide thing to the left.
Good job Im jelous, ahh big granite
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2007 - 10:38am PT
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Tarbuster, Next time you're in the Northeast, make a plan to go to Cannon. Fall is perfect.
Aya, yea I know Reppy's isn't the original start to MG but the original start has a pretty nasty reputation.
Crimpy, off to Poke-O-Moonshine this w/e.
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Andy Middleton
Trad climber
Cow Hampshire
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Sep 21, 2007 - 11:14am PT
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The original 1st pitch of Moby was altered by a very large flake
falling out of the corner sometime last year. Unfortunately the
1st real protection on this pitch (after about 40 feet, unless you bring some wide gear) went with the flake. It looks like it's gonna be harder than the original 5.8 too!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 21, 2007 - 11:22am PT
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the original start has a pretty nasty reputation.
Greatly exaggerated I'm sure! Really, if I was doing it for the first time, I'd choose Reppy's too, 'cause that looks so striking in photos. The original start seems like more of a connoisseur's choice though. Along with the Triangular Roof and the Finger of Fate, one of Moby Grape's best pitches.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Sep 21, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
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Mack, looks like we have to go back and do the 1st pitch AND Vertigo.
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tinman
Trad climber
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Sep 21, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
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To hump the Fickle Finger or to squeeze in behind it, tis also a dilemma.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 21, 2007 - 02:34pm PT
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Raise your hand if you know the origins of the name "archival flake"!
Paulina does, I'm sure.
And looking at Mack & Dave's fine pictures, it becomes clear why Cannon offers both great rock and great rockfall.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 21, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
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tinman
Trad climber
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Sep 21, 2007 - 02:39pm PT
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"Archival Flake" as in the Fickle Finger? I know that the Fickle Finger got its name from Rowan and Martin's Laugh In. The only time I ever heard my pops laugh out loud was when he watched that show.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 21, 2007 - 02:41pm PT
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Yep, "Archival Flake" = the fickle finger of fate. Which often gets humped. But how on earth is it archival?
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2007 - 02:52pm PT
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Dave,
Yes, absolutely. Do the (real) first pitch of MG then do Vertigo. I'm ready when you are. How about the 28th, weather permitting?
Mack
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Sep 21, 2007 - 03:30pm PT
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Chiloe wrote: Yep, "Archival Flake" = the fickle finger of fate. Which often gets humped. But how on earth is it archival?
Do explain the name, it's a good story! But just to clarify, I think "Archival Flake" doesn't refer to the Fickle Finger, but rather to a larger flake up on Weissner's Dike/Lakeview.
GO
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Sep 21, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
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As well as capturing a couple climbers on VMC Direct, that's one of the best shots I've ever seen of the Whitney Gilman route (that enormous ridge/buttress of rock sticking out on the left side).
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 21, 2007 - 03:36pm PT
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You're right, I'm confusing my flakes!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Sep 21, 2007 - 03:37pm PT
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Eh, we all have our flaky days! (yuk yuk)
GO
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Sep 21, 2007 - 07:45pm PT
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Ahh, great TR and photos from the Right Coast, huge thanks for this. My only experience on Cannon was a powder day snowboarding at the ski area around the shoulder in early spring, perhaps even more rare than a bug free fair weather trip up one of the East's preeminent adventure crags.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Sep 22, 2007 - 12:32am PT
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Mack,
Sounds good. I'll try to remember my shoes this time.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Sep 22, 2007 - 07:10pm PT
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Beautiful rock and route! David - you forgot your rock shoes probably because you were so focused on NOT forgetting the hardhat.... Guess if you had to choose between one and the other, you made the best choice.
Part of the reason I keep my shoes clipped to the outside of my pack is so I won't forget them, whether it's at home, or in my tent. (The other reason has somethng to do with letting the air circulate....).
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