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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
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well, you said it mark. The crux of the fracture is .10d. Just one move though. I'd be tempted to say the same is true of Catchy.
There are some real ass kicker ten deez though.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:48pm PT
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Man, I thought Waverly Wafer was so easy. Not even 10c. But I have small hands and did it when I was strong and on a roll. Probably would feel 11 now.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:52pm PT
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Oh melissa, like Fk this st on catwall?
hyark!
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:19am PT
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I like the NH "5.10+" genre: Recluse is one. Many, many many others.
Last weekend I sikked a friend on 2 pitches @ Fairview Dome, the 1st two of Sorcerer's Apprentice. Reid has them at .9 & .10b. Head on up there and tell me what you think.
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ct
climber
CA
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:27am PT
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Days of Heaven, Rock of Ages, RMNP.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 31, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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I thought Little Wing was hard, and it got to my head when making the first, in-your-face moves off of that thin, exposed ledge.
Five and Dime has always had my number, same as Copper Penny over there. The times I've been there I've left that crag feeling worked and defeated, but never demoralized.
One day at the Cookie some guy told me that Hardd was a .10d, so I gave it a shot. No dice.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 31, 2007 - 01:33am PT
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if you're looking for demoralized, try .10b at Arch. har!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 31, 2007 - 08:45am PT
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Slobmonster:
I like the NH "5.10+" genre
Here's one from Cathedral a few weeks back, Abracadabra, with wootles leading it clean though not easy. Where he's at the crack overhangs and bottoms out into a shallow, rounded flare.
Melvin Mills:
I second the Wave
My first lead at Indian Creek. I thought that one was Cosmic.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Aug 31, 2007 - 10:41am PT
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Little Wing, 5 & Dime, Vanishing Point,
Harvest, Interceptor (City of Rocks)
Left Torpedo Tube (Vedauwoo)
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 31, 2007 - 10:53am PT
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Chiloe -- I had forgot about that one. Abracadabra is an SOB.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 31, 2007 - 11:05am PT
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Yeah, I thought so. Too shallow to jam and too rounded to layback. The feet weren't any good either, and I wasn't impressed with the pro. Lucky thing wootles had the sharp end.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Aug 31, 2007 - 11:10am PT
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My favorites on Whitehorse, the megaclassic Ethereal and the fingercrack on Sleeping Beauty.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Aug 31, 2007 - 11:40am PT
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Chiloe: Where on Cathedral is Abracadabra?
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nate
Trad climber
virginia
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:01pm PT
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cramming seemed to be the hardest climb that wasn't a bad size that I've ever been on. the fact that I was expecting it to feel "5.10" whatever that means did not help.
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ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:06pm PT
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Cramming was the hardest 5.10c crack i have ever done. Can't say i actually "Free" climbed it.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:30pm PT
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Serenity
Rt Side Folly
Ten Years After
East Corner at the Leap
Torpedo and Loose Lips at Paradise Forks
1st pitch of Moritorium
Lizard Marmalade Direct at Mt. Lemmon
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:38pm PT
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Chiloe: Where on Cathedral is Abracadabra?
In my photo, the first pitch of Intimidation is that corner just to our left. They start the same place.
Hey, it's not 5.10+ (just a stout 5.9), but have you done that linkup of 2nd pitch Antline to the Bicycle Route hand crack? Quite something!
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
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Nope haven't done that yet but do remember Tomcat talking about the Bicycle route. Will have to add that to the evergrowing list!
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kuan
Sport climber
CA
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:55pm PT
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The only one I've gotten the courage to hop on is OZ in Tuolumne, and it is beautiful! (3rd pitch is a crack)
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Marshall
climber
bay area
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Aug 31, 2007 - 01:29pm PT
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more pictoral evidence needed.
finger lickin:
waverly
rubicon at jtree
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