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jgill
climber
Colorado
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I have fond recollections of JL and John Bachar coming down to Pueblo for some sandstoning in the 1970s that led to this article. I was pleased they displayed the dynamic style that I was partial to, soaring up many of the local problems with a graceful gymnastic exuberance. Superb athletes, both of them - fun to watch.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I am sure they derived equal pleasure from watching you move. As a tall man myself, your power and grace on the stone has long been an inspiration. How did you discover the Pueblo boulders?
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jgill
climber
Colorado
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Mostly by just driving around the local area in 1971, when I moved to Pueblo. However, the Lost Canyon boulders (Pennyante, Juggernaut, etc.) were discovered when a friend of mine, a realtor, was introduced to the elderly gentleman who lived on the edge of the canyon and controlled water diversions from the Huerfano River at that point.
Thanks for the compliment.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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You and Pat inspired me to breifly venture into gymnastics to develop some power. Best muscle tone that I ever attained came from it. My 5'4" partner Paul Davidson could do these through a loop of 7mm cord but a tall man! All of that rope climbing must have helped.
Any stories connected with the next two photos, also yours, from Climb Godfrey and Chelton, 1977?
Left side of the Eliminator, Ft. Collins.
Pennyrile Forest in Kentucky.
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nvrws
climber
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Wow, I didn't know Mr. Long was hangdogging way back then...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Say what.........? There's no hangdogging in the conquest of the boulders.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Largo- not sure that you even saw this thread so bump.
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Mimi
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2007 - 01:35am PT
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From the Verm's classic Stone Crusade - A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America, 1994.
Mark Wilford slaps the lip on Pinch Route, a typically dynamic Gill route on the Mental Block. The pinch hold in his right hand is America's most famous sandstone hold, the mantel above, one of America's most notorious.
Just getting both feet on the rock is a triumph. Steve Mammen on the upper half of Meathook.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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I lived by these words indeed!
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Bump for an awesome thread.
My favorite quotes:
"Keen concentration and focusing of strength provide the top rope, but judgement is always the belayer. With this concentration, plus honoring the consequences of a gigantic whistler, calculation generally replaces the boldness with confidence, providing the ticket to ride. This confidence is gained by slowly pecking away until the sequence is revealed."
"…the excessive telecasting of one’s inner climbing experiences is in poor taste and embarassing – like forcing home videos on a stranger. Anyway, a theological approach to bouldering proves to be just that much more psychological luggage to keep the mere contemplator grounded. The personal beauty of the sport is in the doing, and there alone."
Beautiful, John!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 12, 2008 - 12:24am PT
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Raw power bump! For tales of Olympic rope climbing.
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Aug 12, 2008 - 12:59am PT
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I remember looking at that cover in amazement! It still blows my mind.
More please !
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 13, 2008 - 11:08am PT
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Largo!
Are you ever going to join this thread, the spotters have been asking for ya!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 13, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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yes, the people demand more JL and will not be denied!
i lived and breathed those articles; they dumped gasoline on my already-raging bouldering fire and i've never looked back. sometimes writing can shape your life. so it was with pumping sandstone and pumping granite.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Aug 13, 2008 - 01:21pm PT
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Sorry, doods, but I've been busy and haven't been keeping a bead on ST.
Many, that stuff sure sounds arch and overblown but hell, I was just a kid when I was writing those articles and they served their purpose and got people stoked for bouldering. Look at it now!
Bachar and I sure had fun on those sorties to secret Gill areas. He was our hero. Bachar showed me a bunch of obscure Gillo stuff like Acrobatic Overhang, and other arcane problems at Split Rocks, Ft. Collins, and up at Estes. We became Gill experts.
The Left Eliminator is still one of my favs.
JL
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midarockjock
climber
USA
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Aug 13, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
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Largo your an amazing climber especially with your size.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 13, 2008 - 11:07pm PT
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A couple of tasty Gill shots from Oli's Master of Rock II.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 23, 2008 - 01:44am PT
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Highball bump!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 23, 2008 - 06:18pm PT
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Yeah! Largo rules...chill out!
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