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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I'd hit that!
again, who's in?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Aug 11, 2012 - 02:06am PT
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"Si se puede"
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Jul 13, 2013 - 02:26am PT
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Sure would like to see more on this thing. Supposedly its been done, but zero documentation in the internet age is pretty fishy.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jul 13, 2013 - 09:20am PT
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how hard did it turn out to be?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 13, 2013 - 09:44am PT
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.12a ?
Here is my account of the attempt Walt and I made that Clint linked. I think I have a more expanded detailed version somewhere.
"Yeah Walt brought out the peril sensative glasses response (I couldn't look) in me, the belayer, on an attempt on that arching wide (Lightning bolt) crack on Mt Broderick. He ran it way out after i bailed on the lead, underclinging the flake while his feet were popping off unsavory black lichen. The only pro he had in between the belay and his spot fifty or more feet father along were 2 home made giant cams with a bad cam angle, known to jump out of cracks at odd times times, at the last posssible moment a smaller side crack materialised; he threw in 3.5 friend, clipped it into the rope and fell, saving both our lives, for a while, anyway."
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2013 - 03:10am PT
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The real question now is whether we have climbed the whole line. It extends beyond this monster first pitch, of course. Up perhaps another 6 pitches, through marvelous and interesting rock. Has that happened Werner? Like to the summit? That is how I was looking at the line back then. Or (Werner you would know?) are they bagging the scary impossible-seeming first pitch and then calling it a day? There is some terrific climbing up there.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 14, 2013 - 07:01am PT
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The upper pitches look interesting, and most of them could be accessed by climbing the first pitch of Mt. Broderick - South Face, and traversing right on the tree ledge.
There might not be many people who would be interested in linking a 5.12 lieback with presumably easier wide stuff above?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Feb 28, 2016 - 04:19pm PT
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