Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2007 - 01:49pm PT
|
Michael would be most stoked if we had a gigantic naked climbing get together!
Man, did I just say that?
|
|
Wheatus
Social climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 02:12pm PT
|
I met Michael about 20 years ago. He was working for a close friend of mine in Chatsworth. He had the same long blond hair and was aspiring to be a "glam rock star". Michael had climbed only a few times. He told my friend and I about his first trip to Tahquitz with enthusiasm. We invited Michael to go climbing at Malibu Creek.
His athletic talent was obvious when he cruised up a 5.11 on probably his third time out climbing. He had amazing flexibility and it seemed no climb could intimidate him.
I suggested that we go to Sequoia for some multi-pitch climbing. On the second climb Michael lead he could not find the fixed anchors at the end of the pitch so I simul-climbed behind him on 5.10b moves hoping not to pull him off. Michael reaction was controlled and focused even though he had been climbing less than a year. It was obvious that he would be the real deal.
I knew my days of climbing with Michael were numbered. He was light years ahead of me in skill, technique and strength in his first year of climbing. It was hard to see someone advance so fast when I had been at climbing for many years and never improved much.
As the years passed I saw Michael at numerous climbing areas and he was always pleasant, kind and offering encouragement. Two years ago I saw him soloing in J Tree with John Bachar and Boon Speed. He was climbing Uncle Remus while Boon Speed photographed the event. His poise and grace on the rock reminded me of watching John solo climb in Tuolumne in the 1980's.
That same weekend two years ago I had just lead "Overseer" and was very happy with my lead. It was late in the day and Michael was running up a bunch of climbs on Hemmingway Buttress when he cruised effortlessly up the "Overseer". I told Michael that he made the climb look so easy it blew my enthusiasm about my lead. He graciously replied that he was sorry to ruin my ascent. I told him not to worry it was fun just to watch him climb so smoothly.
Over the past few years Michael was a controversial figure in climbing. His outspoken, brash, and rather loud behavior contributed to the incredulity of some climbers. Michael enjoyed talking and it was difficult to figure out if he was telling the truth or just spewing BS. I had my doubts. I finally researched some of his claims that I had a hard time believing were true. My research revealed that everything he told me was true. I wrote Michael an email last year to apologize for doubting his credibility even though I never told him of my previous concerns. He may have been loud and sometimes obnoxious but he always told the truth.
A few months ago my wife and I ran into Michael. My wife said that he always wanted to be a "rock star" and now he was living that dream.
Michael was a devoted husband and father. I never knew Michael without his wife Marcy. There was no doubt in my mind that Marcy was the love of his life.
He accomplished so much in his short life. He had two degrees (BA and JD), produced films and was a world class athlete. I have tremendous respect for this man. He lived life to its fullest. He lived by his own rules. We could all learn from his life.....never lose sight of your dreams.
I will miss him.
|
|
Damian C
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 03:36pm PT
|
So sad. I don't know what to say.
I met Michael at a conference in Boulder this past April. I could tell just by looking into his eyes that he was a very kind person.
My thoughts and prayers are with him and his family & friends. A life well-lived...
|
|
fowweezer
Trad climber
Pleasant Grove, UT
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
|
for what it's worth, someone here should save copies of the page that Clint Cummins referenced, just in case it does disappear at some point. Then at least it would still be available to the ST community.
|
|
rrrADAM
climber
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 04:57pm PT
|
Mike is/was a friend of mine, and I was aquainted with both his wife and his daughter... I remember bouldering with Mike and Nikki a few years ago at Stoney Point. We, my wife and I, have camped with them, and I have climbed with Mike often at J-Tree, Malibu, and Needles. He is/was an inspiration to me, and inspired me to climb harder, and for different reasons... But more importantly, he is/was a friend, and his form of banter and playfullness will be missed... I remember bouldering with him and friends in J-Tree, and was locked off on a thin crimper groping blindly for the sloper on the top of the problem with Mike on top trying to tell me where it was, but I was looking at the crimper... He kept telling me to look up, and when I finally did, I saw his bare ass just 6 inches from my face, which of course caused me to fall off in laughter, to which he said, "ha-ha, no onsight for you!".
I love ya brutha,
~Adam
|
|
Anastasia
Trad climber
California
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 05:18pm PT
|
I first met Michael at Stoney and it was one of those explosive meetings where two people that talk too much talked over each other. We became instant friends while doing two of our favorite pastimes which are laughing and climbing.
One of the great moments I remember about Mike was when I went to Joshua Tree to go climb with Bachar. I had never hung out with Bachar before and was a bit nervous about the prospect. While wandering around trying to find Bachar, I bumped into Mike who instantly ran down from a boulder to give me a hug. When he realized I was just passing through to find Bachar, he started acting like a teenage girl digging in the dirt about this supposed relationship. When he realized that we were just barely meeting, he became a Jewish grandmother giving me tips on making a good impression while giggling over the prospect of getting us together. He then transformed into a black woman to boost my ego about my fine self. By the time I actually did meet up with Bachar, I was with Mike being rowdy, mouthing off and giggling. There went my good impression... I was acting like a foul mouthed girl having the time of her life. Luckily, Bachar took it well and joined in.
Damn, no one can make me laugh harder.
I miss him.
Anastasia
|
|
10djam
Trad climber
Chino, CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 06:15pm PT
|
Thanks for starting the Memoriam thread Mr B. I don't know what to say… am still a bit in shock having just read the news last night. I guess I expected to someday read about Michael's last climb. Not the wave. Regardless, I'll need time to digest.
I can say I was fortunate enough to have met and climbed with Michael and Wes, at Malibu & Stoney, back in the pre Bad-Ass days. The times I've bumped in to him since, he always lit up and greeted me like an old friend. His smile and infectious enthusiasm will be sorely missed.
Bob Bruner
|
|
b.p.
climber
bishop
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 06:22pm PT
|
Bachar, a giant naked climbing get-together?...that might be more information than ANYBODY can handle...
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 09:04pm PT
|
Well, while I think a giant naked climb for some of us could possibly be a little uncomfortable, Michael wherever he is would probably think it was the most rad thing done in modern climbing. A giant memorial naked climb. I mean, that memorial service he had in Ireland sounded like one of the most spiritual, meaningful and moving ceremonies of anyone I've ever read about. Bagpipes? A native made memorial stone placed at his cliff? Irish poets who wrote poems personally for Marci and Nikki?. His ancestral land gave him the most amazing tribute to the man that Michael was. Not just the climber, but the person that they cherished.
While I know we here will eventually reach some kind of memorial for Michael, his beloved Ireland gave him the spiritual send off of all times. I cried when I read the account of the ceremony, it moved me that much. I can't imagine how emotional it would have been in person.
I think if we found some kind of wild and crazy way to remember Michael - something that would leave us all laughing in hysterics, telling the best stories about him, doing somthing that would make him look down and say "f&ck yeah!! They better be out there having the time of their lives!". I'd just rather be at something that made us all remember the wild spirit of Michael, nothing so somber that we all end up in tears. Cause I know I've cried a lot of those and so have so many people that he touched.
I know eventually a proper memorial will happen over here. I cannot fathom how hard it must be for Marci and Nicki right now. Especially since they don't have the closure of actually having Michael back. But in the interim, I think we could all use a positive pick me up gathering of some kind where we celebrate his life with laughter and toasts and less tears.
I'd prefer it not to be naked, but if even Bachar is game then this can take wheels!
Only rule - no cameras, cell phone (pics) and it's done at dusk or night (when Michael told me about the naked climbing club he sugested climbing stuff later in the day when less people could possibly encounter you).
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
|
Oh, to GD since I always record my climbs/dates/partners, it was 1-31-04. Also, I looked at my partners for some of the other climbs I did that day and realize Dennis was with us, another draw that kept Michael coming back our way (no, not who I was talking about earlier about not wanting to climb naked with. I was referring to my b/f of the time and that's just not an angle you wanna see).
Back to the story...
I introduced Michael to Dennis in Hidden Valley Campground on the night of 10-04-03. In the "Michael MIA" thread, I recounted a story about Michael doing a 5.7 roped climb of Overhang Bypass with me. What I didn't say was fate throughout that night found me finding him and bringing him over to my campsite and introducing him to my partners/campsite mates. He was so amiable that he was one of us within about 4 seconds. He spent the next morning with us. Dennis was helping me with learning to lead aid for an upcoming Utah trip I had, yet there was a route near where we were going that Michael wanted to scope out. Win win for all. We got to spend Sunday morning together off in the rocks away from it all. And everyone's spirits couldn't have been higher.
Dennis and Michael became friends. He was there the day of Michael's JT freesolo spree. I'm glad those two awesome people had that experience and I'm glad that random fate ended up letting me have one amazing person/climber meet another of his same kind.
ps: I record all my climbs in my guidebooks with date and partner next to the route name. That's how I was able to recall in a frighteningly anal-retentive way how everything happened hahaha.
|
|
bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2007 - 10:25pm PT
|
Sorry I had to mention it...you know Reardon would dig it though!
In the middle of it all there'd probably come this huge thunderous laugh from the sky.
We could be lightweights and wear thongs? Nah...
It would be the most outrageous Michael-esque climber memorial ever....don't know if we're ready for it. I think Michael had more mojo than we could ever handle. You know if we asked him about it, he'd probably be all for it....he would definitely be cool if we couldn't deal with it either.
Thanks Michael - you have permanently altered my consciousness - I can't even believe I'm writing this stuff!
|
|
Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 10:41pm PT
|
I didn't get a chance to meet or climb with Michael. He wrote me, though, a few times while working on his film of Bachar. I sent him some thoughts, photos, and let him use some footage from my Gill film. He was very appreciative. Maybe in a sense that film was more a portrait of Michael's spirit than Bachar's, kind of brash, strange, likeable, offensive, disconnected project, having things, missing things, curious... different...
I am very sorry to hear of his disappearance. It reminds me of climbing above the sea at Gogarth (north Wales) on a rainy day, looking down below me at the ocean, making very sure I didn't fall. That water is so cold, it can practically freeze you instantly, and if you landed in it wrong from high enough, you probably wouldn't have much of a chance. It is nice to see such a tribute to him here. Thanks, John, and everyone who knew him.
|
|
Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 10:50pm PT
|
Well, try as he (and other outlaws) did, I never joined the mojo club either. Too big a chicken here.
I may be persuaded for a mojo club tribute event if the rules were as Fluoride suggests (no camera, dusk, trip to Lacunae International).
I stated it in the other thread - and to our mutual friends - his loss is so very sad. It is especially difficult to accept that since that day the world gained another widow and another orphan. It breaks my heart.
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 11:51pm PT
|
Crimpie, one thing I thought of was we all pick a day on some weekend next month where we're off on the rock wherever we all are. Pick a time and date, like a couple weekends from now at dusk and wherever you are, whoever you're with, doff it and just do some moves on the stone naked. Even if it's just 3 moves up a boulder problem you probably couldn't send clothed. Just that you'd do it would make Michael reel with laughter. A mass nationwide naked timed climb in his honor. I think we all have a partner we'd be comfortable doing this with. If not, go to your nearest bouldering area alone, find a solitary problem and doff it at the given time. It'll be a mass tribute.
That way we don't all have to see each other naked, yet we can all be on our way to the Mojo Club. And of couse everyone needs to learn the lyrics to "Elvis is Everywhere" or at least just the chorus so when you doff it, you're doing it in TRUE Mojo club style. Or if you have another favorite Mojo song, go for it.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2007 - 11:53pm PT
|
What does being naked have anything to do with mojo?
|
|
Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2007 - 12:10am PT
|
Sounds good Fluoride. I hope I don't get thrown out of the gym for this. ;)
|
|
b.p.
climber
bishop
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2007 - 01:25am PT
|
Bachar, why so much disbelief in your writing? The loss of a friend is an absurdity we cope with any which way we can...laughter and tears must mingle, the way light and shadow do...in that thin space between them, we try to find the point of balance...it's very hard sometimes.
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2007 - 10:40am PT
|
Werner, mojo has a number of meanings.
In Michael's case he had it in spades. But what he meant by the Mojo Club was based on the mojo you had to be able to be so free as to do some climbs naked, but you ALSO had to know the other MOJO he loved, Mojo Nixon and Skid Roper. Listen to their music and this will all make more sense. I actually listened to them back in college and "Elvis is Everywhere" was my fave song by them so when Michael broke into song that day, it was magic cause that was the first time I heard it in ages, and not sung by Mojo but by Michael. As if climbing Monaco with Michael wasn't fun enough, he pulled out this great nugget of a song to climb his way up it to.
Mmmm, the marine layer is starting to burn off so I'm off to the beach. Yesterday I took the plunge and became a bike owner for the first time since college. Going to take side streets to the beach and ride the paths. I haven't biked around since I've lived here, which as been awhile (LA drivers are insane and it's just easier to drive places). But I bought a bike yesterday and the freedom of biking 4 blocks to Ralph's instead of driving it felt good. Damn Go-Green everything, it's finally got to me!! And I am going to enjoy every minute. I don't know if I'd have done this before, but I guess with all the Michael reflection I've decided life is short and make the most of it. I always loved to bike so dammit, I just gotta learn my side streets and be careful and I'll have a wonderful ride.
I hope you all have a wonderful ride through today! Whatever it is you're doing.
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2007 - 10:44am PT
|
BACHAR.....NO thongs babe, if we must be naked and cover up, I thought Micheal did it best in the posted photo....chalk bag in front...and maybe back side too. Weren't there mass nude ascents of Cathedral "back in the day" or was I the only one doing that? Pre tourist days and post mosquito period. Werner I would speculate mojo is better when yer naked, better nrg flow!!!
Peace
|
|
Anastasia
Trad climber
California
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2007 - 11:29am PT
|
I will join the Mojo club for Michael.
John, I am in for "the nude climbing tribute..." I am sure that will make one of Mike's dreams come true. Maybe with a few cuties joining us we can get the rest to not mind being part of such a tribute.
Who else is in? C'mon, who will join me? "I'm cute."
Anastasia
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!