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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2007 - 07:37pm PT
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Tom, good thought. We'll mill a radius on every surface to ensure no rope snaggage.
This thread is freakin' awesome!!!
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 15, 2007 - 07:40pm PT
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Jon says
Are you sure you know WTF you're doing?
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2007 - 07:52pm PT
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Werner, you tell that lurking fvcker to get his ass back north and show me how it's done.
Native Son, my ass!!!!
And to answer his question, obviously knottt!
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 15, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
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Jon says you better learn how to climb harder than 5.7 before you start drilling holes.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jul 15, 2007 - 08:39pm PT
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A well drilled route is a pleasure to climb
Taken out of context, this sounds like what a complete noob would say after clipping 30 bolts on a free pitch 8-)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 15, 2007 - 09:00pm PT
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Let the ladies teach you how it's done... (Anchor for belay only....a belay anchor to protect a big jump across span..)
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 15, 2007 - 09:06pm PT
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Are you sure that's how it's done?
Next hammer blow by lady will miss it's mark because she's looking somewhere else other than the task at hand.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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Werner, please remind Mr. Nose In A Day who bitched out to go TR some chossy crack with his gf and old man when the hardpersons were off flashing V7's.
Note that I said V and not 5.
Said dad on said chossy crack....
And since I'm in my photobucket account, Idaho Gneiss...riverfront even.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jul 15, 2007 - 10:53pm PT
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Tom, I always thought that the dimples on some (Fixe) hangers were to help the hanger from spinning on the rock when tightened. It seems the dimple is to small to keep the hanger enough away from the rock to allow moisture displacement. But hey, I've been known to be wrong in the past (many times).
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jackass
climber
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Jul 16, 2007 - 08:34am PT
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Mad rock hangers for under a buck a piece? Where? Do tell.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2007 - 03:34pm PT
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haha DMT, I tried that.
"marty, you should see this wall..."
marty climbs 5.14 and doesn't care about 5.easy.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 16, 2007 - 03:50pm PT
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BB: "The time has come to develop some areas that have long laid untouched by human hands."
Perhaps it would be wise to be certain that the owner of the land, or its manager, is agreeable to your putting bolts in it, and so all the other things that may result - removing vegetation and loose rocks, scrubbing, increased human traffic, etc.
It would definitely be wise to avoid use of the word "develop" in relation to relatively natural lands. Develop is often a dirty word to land managers, particularly where there are high natural values. It implies D-9s, explosives, subdivisions, and all the rest. A much better and possibly more accurate word is "create". We create new routes as we establish a new climbing area, aka recreational resource.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 16, 2007 - 03:56pm PT
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If you can't afford bolts, just use recycled rebar.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Jul 16, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
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Make sure you don't place your bolts so far above the stance that you jeopardize the safety of those shorter than yourself. You should make sure that the poor woman at 5' 3" can still clip without dying.
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tony b
Trad climber
chossy jersey
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Jul 16, 2007 - 05:19pm PT
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Power up hombre !
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Jul 16, 2007 - 05:45pm PT
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"please provide some instruction on bolting"
Step 1, buy a case of beer and a big bag of...
Step 2, drive to JTree.
Step 3, look up Todd and offer him what you got in step 1
Seriously, you really need someone to check your work when you learn. It's like learning how to lead and place your own pro, if someone checks your work you'll learn much faster, and have more fun. I guess you could teach yourself like Salathe did, but you'll probably f-up a few routes first. And people will probably trust their lives to your bolts, you NEED to do it right.
A couple other notes:
Find a good sized flat area for the hanger to sit flat against. Hit it with your hammer and listen, hit lot's of spots and you'll learn the sound of rock with a solid foundation. A hollow sound is not good. Examine the rock all around, are you on a big flake?
Make your holes a little deeper than they need to be, if you f-up the placement, or someone chops your bolts, then you can punch any remainder bolt that didn't come out into the rock and patch over the top.
For limestone, go bigger than granite. e.g. 1/2" by up to 4 3/4" (longer if you are going up under a roof, less if it's on a slab).
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scuffy b
climber
Bates Creek
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Jul 16, 2007 - 05:46pm PT
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Whether you're using power or a hand drill, it's easier to drill
at about chin height than it is reaching overhead.
That will also guarantee that the bolt is within reach of shorter
people.
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jackass
climber
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Jul 16, 2007 - 05:56pm PT
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In regards to bolting above your head. There is a tendency to want to place a bolt as high as possible. However, more often then not, you only end up f*#king up the hole. Plus it is double the work.
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TradIsGood
Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Jul 16, 2007 - 06:12pm PT
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Paint the hangars to match the rock and run everything way out.
If you do this well enough, someone may come and bolt it with store bought because he did not see yours.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Jul 16, 2007 - 06:22pm PT
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^^Huh huh, awesome TIGR (TradisGood/Raimit)^^
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