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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 18, 2007 - 03:16pm PT
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weschrist,
Thanks for your interest and support. You can donate directly to ASCA to buy more SS bolts, hangers, double ring hangers and drills:
http://www.safeclimbing.org/
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 18, 2007 - 03:42pm PT
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Nice work guys!
I have an EASY bolting job for you next!
Steve Schneider and I put up a little route on Fairview quite a few years back that needs a little work.
Burning Down the House. the best part is you only have to replace 7 lead bolts and 5 belay bolts....
Bring a long rope for the route/rappel!
ks
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 18, 2007 - 04:07pm PT
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Clint, thanks for clarifying the nature of the routes you two worked on.
I've done a few routes over there and found them to be lots of fun and within reach. GBG & Friday, perhaps some day I'll be able to look at those, but not before I repeat some of the better protected slabs over there.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 18, 2007 - 04:10pm PT
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Kurt, I'll check out Burning Down the House. Hey, I have always wanted to toprope it anyway! I see the lack of bolted belay anchors on some pitches may make it an interesting adventure for rappelling (all the better). I know you're too far away back east to get to it yourself.
But I think we will get over to the Middle Cathedral North Face Apron before that, as we can get to more bolts there in less time, assuming we can cheat our way up them somehow.... (We could probably use your help, Kelly, if you are around and free).
Sunday July 22, Middle Cathedral North Face Apron, anyone? I have plenty of ropes to fix if Roger's are still in use at Arches Terrace.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 18, 2007 - 04:21pm PT
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Couple of years ago there were some "thought provoking" bolts and anchors on Cat Dancing.... good route.... can link two pitches together.... moderate. Good candidate for some fixin.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 18, 2007 - 04:26pm PT
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Holy cow... that was fast work Clint!
(maybe it wasn't cat dancing? Black Primo? hmmm.... I'll ask the brains of the operation later)
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Ken Zemach
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Jul 18, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
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Ya'll just inspired me to finally get off my butt and donate to ASCA, which was well overdue (thanks to there being new bolts on Inverted Staircase which would have been a horror show otherwise).
If you're looking for an easy route to knock off on a "rest" day, Wise Crack needs two anchor bolts replaced for Pitch 2. It's a great climb for a couple of reasons: a) I think it's a great climb, irregardless of the crappy "approach" pitch. b) it's an interesting alternate approach to get to the start of Pitch 6 of Royal Arches (or The Cobra, which rumor has it Clint enjoys) c) it'll make for a safer exit from Royal Arches if one has to rap earlier.
If you're looking to an excursion from hell to replace bolts, the two hangerless bolts on Steck-Salathe really need to be replaced. The lower one is bent downwards from someone's fall, and thus a nut slipped over it may not stay on during a subsequent fall. That makes for a death/serious injury fall in a place where you can least afford it. If ultra-purists are against replacing them with "real" bolts, they could always be replaced with new 1/2" hangerless bolts. I'd be fine with that, but the way it is now, it's totally unsafe.
PS- you guys totally rock
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 18, 2007 - 06:10pm PT
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Yeah, the Steck-Salathe.
I cannot believe that someone went up there and 1) added several bolts to the face pitch and 2) added a two-bolt anchor to the pitch before the Narrows, but didn't replace the death-bolts in between. I've been wanting to replace them for years.
Clint, there's a chance I can make it up this weekend. I'll be in touch.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 18, 2007 - 06:51pm PT
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Well you guys keep up the good work and next time i'm in the valley i can sample your work on some old classics!!!!
KS
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 18, 2007 - 06:53pm PT
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Bruce Bindner rebolted the Steck-Salathe' in 1995 after consulting with Steck:
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yosestec
Perhaps he will respond about the old bolts on p11, and the bolts added on the face pitch. I haven't been on it since the rebolting to observe it directly.
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Spencer Adkisson
Mountain climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 18, 2007 - 07:00pm PT
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Wow! You guys are awesome! Thank you so much for doing that. It is a great service, and by the smile on your face, it looks like you even had some fun doing it. Great job!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jul 18, 2007 - 07:12pm PT
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Karl...b/c of all of your cries about how aspring 5.10 slab climbers have nothing to climb and b/c I am one of those climbers, Clint and I replaced the rightmost two routes on the piller to the left of the Rambler last winter. (Barney Rubble and The Violent Bear it Away IIRC?) They're still probably too stiff for me (which doesn't say much) and by no means are they sport climbs, but there is no 150 foot fall to be had unless you unclip at the anchor and dive off.
I guess I don't see all 5.10's as presenting the same level of challenge (and don't feel entitled to having them be so). I'm OK with the fact that 5.10 slabs (w/ OK protection even) are often testpeices for people who tick 5.12 or 5.13 at Rifle or Indian Creek (or even Yosemite). It's apples and oranges...One taxes at the limits of physical abilities and the other the mind.
There is still room for new routes in these areas. If people wanted to sport climb on 5.10 slabs, I suspect more such routes would have been created whether the stance-bolting crowd wanted it or not. I just don't think the interest in spending the time that it takes to hand drill slabby sport climbs in granite is there. I'm not even sure that if you bolted it they would come.
Good work, Clint, Roger, and your other rebolting associates!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 18, 2007 - 07:45pm PT
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Thanks Melissa
I love those routes on that pillar. I do em a few times each year, particularly in the winter. Including those, there are a few one pitch climbs over there that are fairly reasonable to lead.
Peace
Karl
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 18, 2007 - 09:57pm PT
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If you bolt it, they will come.
ask Clint, he knows.
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davehikes
Mountain climber
Los Osos,Ca
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Jul 20, 2007 - 12:41am PT
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Hey Roger - Looking good - had hoped to catch up with you this summer in Yosemite - but several trips to back country areas and a busy summer schedule - Call when youre home - Miss working with ya - Are you into an end of Aug backcountry trip? maybe bag a peak or two.
--CLOGGER --
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MAD BOLTER
Trad climber
CARLSBAD,NM
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Jul 20, 2007 - 09:22pm PT
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I thought I was the MAD-BOLTER !!! why do people set those double anchor bolts on side-by-side orientation without a connection? A vertical alignment with SS chain connection can be done using only one chain and with essentially no "impact" loading. Those taper bolts I see in the articles are apparently 3/8" dia.. I have used a number of them and not seen any problems with rusting - and they are easy to reset new bolts in the same hole. A long time ago I stopped using silicone or epoxy to seal the holes since the 1978 bolt failure on El Cap where I removed and replaced the remaining anchor. There was loads of rust in the hole!! Apparently the moisture gets inside and can't escape to dry out. The fatality was the result of improperly using the hardware, which had a mfg. flaw, and was overloaded with 3 climbers and haul bag on essentially one bolt.
you can reach me to comment at 505-981-2451 leave msg after frogs
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MAD BOLTER
Trad climber
CARLSBAD,NM
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Jul 20, 2007 - 09:25pm PT
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thanks for the re-bolting work-you all !!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 20, 2007 - 11:23pm PT
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Tom (Rohrer),
> I thought I was the MAD-BOLTER !!!
You still are! (If you want to be) :-) Roger and I talked about you; we have both met you, and you are still the original master.
> why do people set those double anchor bolts on side-by-side orientation without a connection? A vertical alignment with SS chain connection can be done using only one chain and with essentially no "impact" loading.
I think the best reason for the side-by-side anchor bolts was explained on a post I read here on supertopo - when you have 2 people at a hanging rappel/belay anchor, it helps to spread them apart (norizontally), so they are not leaning on each other. It makes it easier for them to work independently when pulling the rope down, unweight the anchor, thread their rappel device, etc. Of course these problems do not occur if someone is solo rappelling.
Another consideration is that the chain used in a vertically aligned anchor can be a bit long and is generally a higher visual impact as a result. Many people prefer that bolts / fixed anchors be seen as little as possible. Although of course when rappelling down and looking for the next anchor, we may feel the opposite! (Maybe a reflective or bright color visible from the top would be helpful).
Tom, have you seen Steve Grossman's welded SS rappel / belay anchor? I wonder what you might think of it (sorry it is for the side-by-side bolts):
The welded half link at the bottom is a way to increase the diameter of the surface the rope runs over, and to use up otherwise wasted links from cutting chain segments.
More details in the relevant thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=394886
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 20, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
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Tom (Mad Bolter)
Just you wait you ole goat till you see Steve Grossman's stainless steel wonder anchors.
You're eyeballs will pop outa your head.
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