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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 10, 2007 - 05:10pm PT
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Werner,
how can you be sure,.....
there could be a conspiracy!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 10, 2007 - 05:14pm PT
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"If I have seen further, it is because I stood on the shoulders of giants" - attributed (more or less) to Bernard of Chartres (12th century) and Isaac Newton.
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" - Georges Santayana.
Perhaps I should also post this to the retrobolting thread.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 10, 2007 - 05:22pm PT
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Hey Caylor,
Good to make your acquaintance here. Nice piece in R&I. Got my attention, anyway. And not just because you were pumping Tiffany in the opening spread.
What really got me going was the description of that day on Southern Belle. Sickening crash, man. One of the all-time worst short of decking. Having actually decked myself (much shorter drop, 40' but onto solid slab), and broken my back, and crawled back whimpering and sniveling onto the stone, and found myself at first uncontrollably backing off of 5.8 a few measly feet above a bomber bolt, I can relate somewhat to the sickening reality of the 120' pitch you took. My condolences. And good on you for pulling it back together to venture again into the realm of the R and the X.
Anyway, I've become a bit obsessed with Southern Belle. It's so bad ass, and is the high water mark on an outrageous and underappreciated wall. The only other nearby line with free climbing is the unrepeated Karma, with old 1/4" bolts and reputedly a rope-slicer edge on the Yardarm dike.
Your story surfaced at, for me, the perfect time. I feel like a virtual tourist in an X-rated landscape. So I am way pleased to see you show up here. Glad you're back on the stone and hitting it hard.
Cheers,
Doug
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jul 10, 2007 - 05:25pm PT
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weschrist said "Wow, old people who climbed on rocks back in the muthafukin day... and now spray embellished accounts of their experiences between meager attempts to rekindle their youthful drive by searching for internet porn.
I feel so honored to be sitting on the other end of this network of tubes connecting us.
Please share your political views with us all. I mean, if you were able to do 11c X in EB's, surely you know everything there is to know about the way the world works. "
yeah, some of em have been at it since before the milkman knocked your mama up.
course, 11c aint all that hard when you project it and the bolts are 4 feet apart so i can see you arent impressed. at one point in time climbing really meant going up. not starting on top with a power drill.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 10, 2007 - 05:28pm PT
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What name does the milkman post under?
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nita
climber
chico ca
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Jul 10, 2007 - 05:36pm PT
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Good Post D.M.T. ;-)
Once on top of, Mt.Star King,we found this little paper register -in a rusty tin can. It had less than twelve names...One of the names was, Salathe......I thought that was soooo cool!
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Jul 10, 2007 - 05:42pm PT
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I am one of those felt I was a "part" of something much larger when I made my first climbing attempt. I relish the history;
Robbin's "Nutcraft" reads were my first books purchased, even though I could have gone down to B & Noble and got any one of the newer how-to's. When I noticed "Women on High," a book detailing the earliest climbs made by women, I needed to have it.
Supertopo is, to me, a link in that continuum. I am lucky to have been just sure enough of myself that I wasn't afraid to post here, and because of that, I have talked to and met, and even climbed with, some of those who have written, or been written about, as part of the history.
The golden guys of Supertopo are truly Supermen!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 10, 2007 - 05:45pm PT
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Yeah, we started by improvising diaper slings and now wear oversize harnesses to accomodate the Depends...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 10, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
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No kidding, what a great place this is!
Even George Meyers has stopped in and gosh knows, so many of us in total.
Supertopo is the super-charged roll call old folks home we never really expected to happen. As well, new stuff gets hatched to boot: in the last year I've been so pleased to get hooked up through The Taco to a Stonemaster's reunion, (where I saw 60 friends who I'd rambled about with every weekend for years, many years ago), The Sushifest, The Mt Woodson Shindig, a trip to North Conway to climb with Chiloe and hook ups with new partners right here at home, such as Stich, Goatboy, Eeyonkee...
It just keeps rolling out.
Supertopo is not a gang, club, or religion, it is a place, mightily peopled with hilarious, insightful, generous ropemates.
(...and the odd Troll)
Thanks everyone for contributing to the party.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 10, 2007 - 06:04pm PT
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It's a fun party to be part of.
If I'd a-known the old days were history, I woulda took a lot more photos.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jul 10, 2007 - 07:30pm PT
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weschrist, "i fart in your general direction...."
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 10, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
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"I piss on you from a considerable height."
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 10, 2007 - 07:40pm PT
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"Your mother was a hamster, and your father smelled of elderberries."
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 10, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
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"May the fleas of a thousand camels infest your armpits"
WC has tried to troll us away from the thread's original purpose. He isn't doing so well, though has earned a giggle or two. I understand that in fact he has autographed copies of every book about climbing in the U.S. published before 1980, signed by the author. He can quote verbatim from Basic Rockcraft, from memory. He prefers the carabiner brake, because there's more redundancy. His favourite bathroom reading is Freedom of the Hills. He peels off the tape at the climbing gym, to preserve some of the spirit of adventure. When he first went to the Valley, he prostrated himself before El Capitan, touched his head to the ground, and said "I am not worthy". His dog is named Royal, and his cat Yvon.
One thing he has learned from the crinklies, is how to S***Talk.
Ain't climbing sociology great?
Regardless, SuperTopo is a great community, carrying on the traditions of climbing. If WC and others feel they have to post a bit of graffiti now and then, no skin off my nose.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 10, 2007 - 07:50pm PT
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"Your mother was a hamster, and your father smelled of elderberries."
I wipe my bottom on your mother's cat!
More reasons to love the Taco.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 10, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
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LOL, Hahahahaha
Wes you at it again, you rascal.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jul 10, 2007 - 08:07pm PT
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i do not like farting into the wind....
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 10, 2007 - 08:11pm PT
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"no giggling while discussing climbing legends. This is serious sh#t. No room for humor here. Old people on the verge of death shouldn't be taking their accomplishments lightly"
Actually, you're (more or less) talking WITH climbing legends. (Not including me.) Half a dozen or more have posted to this thread.
Just because you can get killed climbing is no good reason to take it seriously. We live in a climbing-optional world.
All climbers, young and old, are on the verge of death. You too.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 10, 2007 - 08:20pm PT
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Doesn't do you any good when your belayer is one of our guys,...
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 10, 2007 - 08:22pm PT
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There is a long list of climbers, some legends, who have failed to put on their harness or tie in properly, and have gotten hurt or killed as a result. Even while "sport" climbing. Likewise communication screw ups have killed a fair number. All this on supposedly safe bolted routes.
Given the opportunities for subjective error, it is scary that some think that climbing of any kind can ever be safe. Safer, yes. Safe, no.
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