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quietpartner
Trad climber
Moantannah
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Jul 10, 2007 - 12:59pm PT
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Mccreel....
I don't know why you're asking about drilling bolts in the Gallatin, but ya better be REAL careful....
We're not big on that around here, without prior assent from other climbers.
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AWhit
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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Jul 10, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
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Hand-drilling in the Gallatin is good, hardwork...but nothing compared to basalt.
I didn't know we had a bolt committee here but I guess my fees are due.
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Mark
climber
bend, oregon
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Jul 10, 2007 - 01:12pm PT
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hi andrew! nice pics as well - the new routes look yummy...
i have a friend in whitefish who is persuading me to come out and look at the potential at black leaf. all the pics make it look worth it. have you climbed there much?
when you coming to oregon? we've been climbing mostly at cougar lately.
sorry for the thread drift.
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AWhit
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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Jul 10, 2007 - 01:18pm PT
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I've only spent 4 days climbing there. Pretty good, sharp as all hell, a little loose. Not the best limestone climbing by far, but if your in Whitefish I'd check it out. Potential is out of this world, I can get you in contact with the primary developers if you want beta on new routing, stock up from the boyz at Metoluis for sure.
And by the way, if your out here you better come hang on some SW Montana rock with me bro'.
Pat out there in the sticks
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2007 - 03:51am PT
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Blackleaf Canyon looks great - I needed some destinations for trips out of Bozeman, and that looks perfect. I am a Wicked Child looks very nice, too, I love aretes.
About bolts, like I said, I'm just curious about the rock. You can learn a lot about rock by making a hole in it. I don't have enough time to do new routes, though. Besides, I know you've all got guns, so I wouldn't do anything to piss ya off!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 11, 2007 - 04:20am PT
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If you punch - "Gallatin Canyon" raptors - into google you'll come up with more than a few references which include lots of various sightings, research papers, and in general a whole bunch of folks with a vested interest in Raptors in the canyon. It might be a smart idea for someone to start building a relationship with some of those folks just so everyone is on the same page and to be aware of, and stave off, any moves towards involuntary closures should they ever develop. Just a thought anyway...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 17, 2007 - 11:26am PT
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The Waltz, Gallatin (Photo taken B.C......before kids.....maybe 5 o6 years ago......)
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 17, 2007 - 11:30am PT
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Warms my heart Todd.
When is that photo from?
EDIT: healyje, I looked through some of those links. Interesting stuff. I'll have to ask around a bit.
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AWhit
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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Jul 17, 2007 - 12:45pm PT
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Lets stop Waltzing and dance.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jul 17, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
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Andrew, "The Big Shoe Dance" is the crux dihedral on "Pee Wee's Big Adventure" at Mill Creek--strap on those shoes and get after it.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 17, 2007 - 01:35pm PT
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East side
The Throwback
Barrier Reef
Pink Chagrin
Broken Rib
Not sure on this one...just uphill from 'On the Dole'
Ashes of Stone
Local vegetation
Cheers,
Tom
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jul 17, 2007 - 01:42pm PT
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Nice shots, TK. I wish some of that "July Snow" was around here--good for cooling off the beers.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 17, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
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Thanks Kev....I wish that was July snow...more like February in the Broken Rib shot...
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powerandrubber
Trad climber
bozeman, MT
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Jul 17, 2007 - 04:47pm PT
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Someone mentioned Blackleaf...
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jul 17, 2007 - 07:45pm PT
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Galatin looks great, Tom! But if i was still clamberin', I'd be in Blackleaf tomorrow...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jul 17, 2007 - 07:54pm PT
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Wayne, nice to see you make your annual post, hehe.
Jello, Blackleaf has a lot going for it, for sure--multi-pitch bolted lines in the high-moderate range; BUT the Gallatin Canyon has history and mostly trad lines associated with it. When Pat Callis moved to Montana and drove through the GC (60's), he stopped and saw the Sparerib from the road; then went and climbed it (or so the story goes).
I wouldn't have guessed that you'd favor chert-laden bolted limestone over crack infested metamorphic gneiss--learn something new every day.
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powerandrubber
Trad climber
bozeman, MT
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Jul 18, 2007 - 12:00pm PT
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Hey Kevin. Sometimes my tips aren't too sore to type:) Anyone going to blackleaf needs to buy the helena crew many many beers for the mind boggling amount of work they've done there. I have a love hate relationship with BL. I love that it;s shady, beautiful, and HUGE. I hate that it's so unbelievably sharp I can only climb 1 good day there then I'm crying like a bitch. Also you have a 10-20% chance of getting a flat driving in because the gravel is so sharp. Check your spare, nearest tire shop is an hour away and they are closed on sundays. More of a cuttlery shop than a climbing area!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jul 18, 2007 - 12:05pm PT
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Maybe you can show me around there this fall, when the temps drop and the wind picks up--I am a Livingston-type climber, you know. Looking forward to it.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Sep 10, 2007 - 12:18pm PT
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Back in July, Pat on pucker fest of a new route on the Watercolor Wall, 'Still Life'
(photo: T. Williams)
A few weeks later we heard DJ-AJ put a new one in just uphill...not sure the name of it...
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