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climber
yosemite
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Sep 16, 2004 - 09:28pm PT
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last time i checked NOBODY ownes the rock. right? second, permission from them? come on bachar hasn't been on the route in years and same with that other guy. the color code will work. jsust clip the red or the green. its then left up to the individual and the rock it self is still there, im not chipping holds, i mean come on......
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funkness
climber
So,Ca.
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Sep 17, 2004 - 01:55am PT
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The color coding's a good idea. That way there won't be any mistake which bolts to chop. :)
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 17, 2004 - 02:37am PT
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Steve's route "Shipoopi" is near BY and has much better pro. Ya can take your choice from the Medlicott Menu, Medium or extra Spicy.
Talked to Dave Yerian once about the route. He's back into climbing and having fun. Basically said he was just along for the ride with Bachar and that the runouts and character of the route, for better or worse, are John's handiwork.
Dave, by the way, used to climb barefoot sometimes. Many years ago I met him at the foot of Lunatic Fringe. He had his feet all taped up for jamming!
Peace
karl
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Sep 17, 2004 - 09:58am PT
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Trivia Time:
Q: Who was supposed to be in on the FA of the B/Y, but was replaced by Dave at the last moment?
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Sep 17, 2004 - 10:10am PT
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disco duck, there's thousands of other climbs around why not go do one of them?
There's millions of potential FAs, why not put up a new route the way you want?
Why turn a mental testpiece into a sport route?
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theoncler
Big Wall climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 10:49am PT
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hey disco,
we should get together soon and get this done. leave a way to get hold of you on C4 wall and we can go make this route safe for all those who want to make it up. and i think the color code idea is awesome because you let the people decide what they want to clip.
no more scary run out
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Demented
climber
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Sep 17, 2004 - 11:05am PT
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can't say- i'd say.. (chuckle)
answer would be Mo Linky
i recall that summer 'cause Linky had only a week's vacation in T Meadows; he swore off weed the entire week so as to be more productive on the rock.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Sep 17, 2004 - 12:33pm PT
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can't say wrote:
Trivia Time:
Q: Who was supposed to be in on the FA of the B/Y, but was replaced by Dave at the last moment?
[gratuitous name-dropping alert]
Damn, Dave told me the whole story in great detail--during a 10-mile trail run--and I can't remember...
[/gratuitous name-dropping alert]
If I remember correctly, it was someone who stayed up late the night before partying,
and was too hung-over to make it. Then Bacher found Dave and they went.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Sep 17, 2004 - 12:35pm PT
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We have a winner. Demented, right you are. and hardman. Mo has never been much or a drinker. So Dave's version is slighty off the mark.
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Chico
Trad climber
Mt. Shasta, CA
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Sep 17, 2004 - 01:40pm PT
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I think that the color coding idea is lamer than lame.I really don't get where you are comming from. Again, if you are afraid that you might take a winger off the route, then don't get on the route until you are climbing more confidently. There are great topos of the route. just look at it, if you don't like it, then don't touch it! Jeez man! Have some respect. To turn that route into a chicken bolted pansy-athon would be a big slap in the face to all the climbers that came before you that actually had balls. Just leave it be. The last thing that anyone needs is a bolt chopping war. Like it or not, the bold climbing on the B/Y route is a part of climbing history. Who are you to change that, or to try to tame it? Think about it.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Sep 17, 2004 - 02:06pm PT
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Disco Stew, you've already made it public that you can't do the route. At least not without more bolts. But not the way it is - so don't be calling me a jackass. You're just too thick too understand that there is more to climbing than just doing moves. This route is a mental testpiece and even a spiritual experience for those who have what it takes to do it. Your color coded bolt scheme would be nothing less than an act of vandalism. Why not go down the hill a few miles and do the ones on the back of Pywiack Dome, or walk out to East Cottage. There are so many great well protected routes around . . .
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Sep 17, 2004 - 02:28pm PT
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This still feels like one big troll to me.
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theoncler
Big Wall climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 02:53pm PT
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i don't understand why all of you are giving disco stu a hard time on this. i think given that the route has been the way it is for as long as it has, it is time for a change. placing bolts on the route is going to open it up for many, many climbers who couldn't climb it before. what a noble idea. for the climb that was so out of reach for many will now be available for climbers of all abilities.
disco stu atleast has the balls to stand behind what he believes even though it is going to piss of the entire climbing community minus a few exceptions like myself.
i think once the bolting project is completed, all of you naysayers are going to feel a certain amount of gratitude for all the work done.
even better, with the colors on the hangers, it will be so much easier to see the route.
give stu a break, i dont think he's doing it for his own ego, but for the better good. why can't you all realize that! jesus!
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:04pm PT
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help, there's a big ol' hook in my mouth, and yours and yours....
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dedbro
Trad climber
joshua tree,ca.
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:05pm PT
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To the idiots that want color coding bolts,stay in the gym.You have balls the size of BB's. You have no ethics,no respect for the sport.Find another game where you can change the the rules all you want.Maybe tag is your sport.
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Zam
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:20pm PT
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Just because you are too chicken sh#t to climb the BY don't force that on the rest of us. I've never done it, but plan on it before too long. I have watched people do it and have the utmost respect for them. This is an iconoclastic testpiece in climbing, not just in the US but in the world. While your r-bolting the BY why don't you just sport bolt the Nose, or the Regular Route. You two are the lamest f#$k's to ever pretend to climb. I personally will donate the gear to anyone who chops your bolts. The route is as the route stands. If you're not good enough to get on it, then don't. There is a reason the BY is not a trade route, let's keep it that way!
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mark
climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:30pm PT
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hey dedbro and all you others, since when were you the ethics police. You can give disco stu sh#t when its done and disco stu re-names the route with the new bolts on it. I "might" re-consider my "project if and only if I hear from both the FA's that they don't want it done. Because I talked to bachar some time ago and he offered me the bolts to do it. I haven't talked to him since this posting. This weekend I was just going to work on the first pitch. Probally on Sun. If after Sun. I hear from them both I won't do the last 3 pitches and just leave the first one color coded with bolts.
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Gene
Social climber
Two hours away
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:30pm PT
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Disco Stew gets the huge troll of the weak award. Well done.
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theoncler
Big Wall climber
yosemite
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:43pm PT
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hey dedbro, zam, and gene, who are you two thinking that you can push your influence on others? if you haven't noticed, all routes change over time. every route on el cap is not the same from what the FA's first encountered. are you bitching about that? is the nose or the zod the same even from a year ago, NO! so why do you care if this route changes? sure it is a little more drastic than blown pin scars over time, but so what. it is still the mechanically defacing of rock. you guys think you're purists or something? your sh*&t don't stink?
once BY is redone, it is going to be a new route. new experience. so give it a rest and let it be.
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Gene
Social climber
Two hours away
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Sep 17, 2004 - 03:47pm PT
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hey dedbro, zam, and gene, who are you two....
Run out of toes? Only runout you'll do.
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