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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Jun 30, 2007 - 03:12am PT
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The Root Canal at Suicide Rock. A four sided chimney. Pretty neat.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jun 30, 2007 - 03:12am PT
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Deep Throat is pretty wierd, but beautiful too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 30, 2007 - 03:22am PT
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I really love the weird.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Jun 30, 2007 - 09:59am PT
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damn jello, thats looks freekin gnarly. cool photo.
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Jun 30, 2007 - 10:09am PT
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Thailand had a whole bunch of crazy climbs.
Climb the weird drippy wall. Route peters out. Oh sh#t- gotta step across the freaky void to a free hanging stalagtite hanging in mid air behind you. The BF climbed one that ended in a tunnel that looks a lot like the OP's first pic.
Starting Au Nang tower out of a floating boat was pretty entertaining. Rappelling back into the boat was fun too.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 21, 2007 - 02:06pm PT
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This one is sort of wierd...(The climb;..not the lad..)
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 22, 2007 - 10:49am PT
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Most unusual I "haven't" climbed...fall '07 perhaps...
Jaybro, this looks "most unusual" as well...
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jul 22, 2007 - 02:30pm PT
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One that comes to mind is King Tut's Tomb at Little Egypt.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Jul 22, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
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Imaginary Voyage deserves at least an honorable mention.
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Feb 25, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
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Interesting thread bump! More pictures! Which I don't have any of, but the sea of chicken heads near the top of Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth were pretty wild.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Feb 25, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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Too small to be called a pitch, really, and no names, but there's a
four-way slot accessible only by climbing down into it from the flat top
of this formation Dingus showed me.
Climb down an easy chimney to a flat sandy bottom, look out through the
rock to a climb which may have somebody on it 15 feet from you horizontally,
choices for climbing back up include a 5.9 squeeze, a 5.10
offwidth and the aforementioned easy chimney, with stemming options
available if the other climbs get scary on the way up.
Like, being able to step off into total security in the middle of a 5.10 move.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Feb 25, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
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don't remember the details, just the delight of wondering "what just happened there?"
the "there" being siberian swarm screw
as to vicarious viewage, nothing rivals this TK crew frivolity up batholith way:
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/39/img8201sm.jpg
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Feb 25, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
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For me: Many of the sport climbs at Smith Rocks.
Make a couple moves, traverse to clip the bolt. Make a couple moves, traverse to clip the bolt. Make a couple moves, traverse to clip the bolt. Maintain this continuum until anchors are reached.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 25, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
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Old Age at Squamish:
a cedar stump, a cedar root, a big corner, a sort-of chimney, and likely to be wet
but for unusual, this amalgam of clay and sawdust in South Africa also had caves with the usual pieces of pottery
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anees
climber
temporary exile from the land of enchantment
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Feb 25, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
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I'm surprised these two haven't been mentioned yet: The fissures pitch on Charlotte Dome... and the Narrows on the Steck-Salathe! Sorry no pics (of my own) of either pitch.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
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the OP's route looks like one of the hydraulic cylinders at fossil falls.
the spelunker's variation to shazam on witch needle explores a 30-foot outcrop. right up in the crotch of the thing you can see a little daylight glimmering down. i managed to squeeze through--not sure i could do it now--and james weger didn't have a problem seconding it. greg vernon, a tad huskier, got stuck. it was pathetic hearing his voice through the rock--reminded me of the time my terrier disappeared into a rabbit hole and i could hear him barking underground and wasn't sure i'd see him again. james and i yanked together. the third yank or so and--pop--greg came through.
i think the needles have a way of grabbing you like that. from greg's guidebook:
historical note: on the second ascent of yellow brick road [wizard needle], a climber got his knee irretrievably stuck in the offwidth right off the first belay. his partner rappeled to base, ran to the lookout tower and got a plastic squeeze bottle of of salad oil, which was used to lubricate and free the leader's knee. the squeeze bottle is still in the crack at the belay. [still?] it is recommended that this section be liebacked. always climb safely and avoid the need for rescues.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 25, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
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Herb Laeger and Dick Leversee put up a climb on Locke Rock, north of Courtright Reservoir. I did probably the second ascent, late 1980s climbing with Rachel McCollum. There is nothing unusual about the "crux" pitch, a bit of 5.11+ bolted face on pitch 5. But what comes next is bizzarre!
From the belay on bolts, one must traverse straight out left across the "Window Washer's Traverse," a highly exciting tiptoe traverse across a very thin edge of nice granite with no pro.
After about 35 feet one arrives at a right facing arch / dihedral with a weird flared crack which will not accept gear. Undercling this to it's top where you are now still 35 feet out and back directly above the belay.
This pitch is only about 5.9, but it is wild!
Funny, I went back and did the climb again a few years later with Brent Ingrahm. Even doing it twice, I really do not recall anything about the crux pitch other than I had to latch hard, but that Window washer / cling or fling pitch I will never forget.
P.S. If you go to do this one, plan on adding a good bolt to the belay up there!
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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Feb 25, 2011 - 03:57pm PT
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Hey Tork ...great shots, great thread!
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
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I think the 5.3x pitch on Tunnel Vision in Red Rocks is pretty cool, no pics though. A gently rising slab with a roof chimney rising along with you. A decent pitch length in semi-darkness (headlamp optional).
Then there's that Reed's Direct vertical tunnel-through I'll eventually get around to.
Goat Rock Overhang at Castle Rocks is pretty amazing stuff. Somebody must have pics of that one. That view when your back/but is plastered to the ceiling and you're looking straight down at the ground 80 feet below, then the big reach to the lip and cut the feet loose. Wild and cool and unusual for a route that mortals can do.
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